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A bit of shunting


Dave John

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I have been enjoying a bit of shunting. There are two reasons, firstly I enjoy driving the trains I make, and secondly the layout has been sprinkled with post it notes based on the proposed signal diagram. The idea is to check that the possible train movements could be properly controlled from the signals before actually making and fitting them. So while I was at I thought I would take a few snapshots of moving trains. Just for fun and to see how they turned out. The answer is a bit grainy and of dubious focus, but hopefully conveying a sense of movement.

Here goes.

No. 245 bring a coal train in westbound.

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Run past the trailing crossing ready to shunt back to the eastbound line. Shunting signals needed there.

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Across the crossover. Pulling 17 wagons half of which are whitemetal is one thing. Pushing them through pointwork is a stiffer test. Thats them on the eastbound line.

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Ok, time to split the train. Thats a bit of old rail with a 1mm magnet stuck to it attached to a cheap keyring torch. Seems to uncouple AJ s rather neatly.

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Off the main line and onto the headshunt. , I think that would be a ground signal on the siding at the trap, and possibly a dwarf the call the train back. Hmm.

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Half the train into the coal siding.

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Back for the other half, the brakevan uncoupled.

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All in the right place.

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And there we are, 245 and brakevan now running correctly eastbound, a distant just past the box interlocked to the storage sidings.

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Seems like it might just work…..

Sorry if thats too many photos, I really should learn how to do videos.

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11 Comments


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Guest Midland Mole

Posted

All really nice, nothing wrong with lots of lovely pics! :)

Alex

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Guest Midland Mole

Posted

Wanted to ask, what are you using to couple your stock?

Alex

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Hi Alex,

 

Its the Alex Jackson coupling.

 

http://mmrs.co.uk/technical-articles/alex-jackson-coupling/

 

And many posts on mrweb about them. 

 

They have the advantage of being unobtrusive, but can be a bit fiddly to make and fit. On the bright side, it is just a bit of wire, so is probably the cheapest DIY coupling available.   I have messed about with droppers and electromagnets for remote uncoupling, hmm, something I might have a go at again. I have an idea about that.

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Guest Midland Mole

Posted

Brilliant, thanks for that. I have been debating for AGES now what type of couplings to use when I get round to doing my stock. I wanted ones that were as unobtrusive as possible, and your pictures show just how good these are on that front.

 

I will definitely keep these in mind for when I do my stuff. :)

Alex

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Well, have a play with them. Not expensive to try compared to other couplings. They don't like sharp curves and like real couplings they need constant attention, but at least they don't look like a set of girders the size of a snowplough. 

 

I have cheated a bit, I now make the tail a bit longer than the original 5 mm. Mine are nearer 6 mm. Its really about how much lateral movement that the wheels can allow on a given track gauge. 

 

I'll tell you a secret. Over 30 years ago I made an EM back to back gauge. 16.5 mm. Then I treated myself to a new micrometer and discovered that it was actually 16.55 mm. So when I came to build the new layout I adjusted al the jigs so I run on 18.25 track. I expect the purists will shout at me, but really it just shows that really the whole gauge thing is about what you make not what the box shifters want you to run.

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Oh that's lovely. Because the carriages were so elegant they tend to grab the attention on pre-grouping layouts, but the goods wagons do it for me. I like that James Scott wagon.

 

Interesting to hear about your experiences with manual uncoupling of the Alex Jacksons. I assume it's easier than 3-links since you choose this method, or will you be putting in magnets?

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Way back when I started playing with EM I started with 3 link couplings, and I still use them in fixed rakes of coaches and some wagons, with just an AJ on the ends of the rake. Honestly Mikkel, even back then I found that I couldn't work with 3 link at a distance of more than a foot or so, these days it is more like 6 inches on a good day with a good light. As time goes on I can see that I might have difficulty with an uncoupling stick like that one so I might add some fixed uncoupling positions but what I really want to do is think up a way of uncoupling at any place without having to be manually accurate. Time to buy some more magnets I think....... 

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Thanks for that insight Dave. I use Spratt & Winkles but have been wondering whether to go for manual uncoupling of 3-links since I always seem to be putting off fitting the S&Ws after a wagon is done! However, it doesn't sound like that is a good idea as I can also feel my eyesight changing these days.

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Hi Dave,

 

What realistic layout!  The flowing curves and proportions give your work a really convincing feel.  (I could not work out if it was P4 or 0 gauge and would not have guessed it was EM until I saw the Post-it note by the track.)

 

Following now...

 

Colin 

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Thanks Colin. 

 

I have tried to give it all a spacious feel. I can understand why a lot of modellers try to cram a lot in, but in reality the railways only laid track if it made money. Similarly they never used locos if something cheaper ( horses, men, winches, capstans ) were available. 

 

Mikkel has started a whole debate about stables and horses, really the info so far suggests the next step is a radio controlled horse ..... 

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