Jump to content
  • entries
    65
  • comments
    141
  • views
    38,393

How I lower my Farish Class 37s - a step by step guide


jonas

3,007 views

 Share

I have been asked how I lower my Farish 37s; I hope this helps explain it. Descriptions are in each photos caption. It's not that hard to do but worth it in my opinion. I've never had any issues with running but I don't use settrack curves, and obviously anyone following this does so at their own risk!

 

blogentry-7595-0-70355400-1493527971_thumb.jpg

 

Comparison between modified and unmodified Farish Class 37s. I also painted the visible brass bits of the pickup strips black whilst the loco is disassembled.

 

blogentry-7595-0-10582500-1493528392_thumb.jpg

 

Body off and cab interiors removed - these just pull out. If anyone needs any I have about 12 in my bits box now!

 

blogentry-7595-0-10513800-1493528457_thumb.jpg

 

The contact board slides up and out of the chassis: careful not to break any solder joints. I have painted 2 white dots onto mine above - file this away. It's about 2mm, about half way up the brass circles under the lighting contacts. You're basically extending the cut out. It's important that both sides (and ends) have the same amount filed so the body sits level. They then just slot back in.

 

blogentry-7595-0-64332900-1493528519_thumb.jpg

 

Chop the lugs off the battery box; this will no longer clip onto the bottom of the chassis block. I fix mine back on the chassis with blue tack, but you could use double sided tape if you prefer.

 

blogentry-7595-0-35022800-1493528563_thumb.jpg

 

Reassembled, it'll look something like this! I hope this helps anyone looking to do a similar mod.

  • Like 10
 Share

10 Comments


Recommended Comments

  • RMweb Gold

Hello,

 

could you show a pictures of the modified contact board after you removed the material?

 

Thank you

 

Markus

Link to comment

Hi.

 

Looking at my 37 it all makes sense now which bits to modify. Thanks for the brake down. While we are on the subject of brake downs could there be a possibility of you running through you weathering.

 

The 37's look so right with the colours you have used.

 

Thanks

 

Adam.

Link to comment

Thanks for all the ratings and the kind comments!

 

could you show a pictures of the modified contact board after you removed the material? 
Hi Markus, I'll try to get one for you next time the stock box is out. But it's basically just a case of removing the white painted sections. It means the contact board sits lower in the metal chassis.

 

Haven't had any problems with clearances on mine but then there's few curves on
Hi Pete, your work is awesome! I think there are a few methods to do this - I just picked what I thought was easiest after a disasterous attempt to move the bogie frames up a la Mercig. I know Farish have to cater for tight corners but can't help but feel the 37 is excessively high..it's not an issue I have with my Western or 24?

 

Looking at my 37 it all makes sense now which bits to modify. Thanks for the brake down. While we are on the subject of brake downs could there be a possibility of you running through you weathering. The 37's look so right with the colours you have used.
Glad it helped Adam! I look forward to seeing your completed model. These are weathered broadly the same as most of my stock - a mix of humbrol enamel black, dark brown and a touch of weathering powder mixed with thinner so it's about the consistency of milk. The whole model is covered, left for about ten minutes then carefully removed using a flat brush or cotton bud touched into thinners. Try and mimic the direction of real weathering, i.e. Tip to bottom of locos sides.Once you are happy give it a good blast of flat, matt varnish to kill any shine. Touch in he details and add powders to tastes. It's not very scientific but then weathering rarely is, Inhave found the more I do the more I get my eye in...so get slapping some paint around!
Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

Hi Pete, your work is awesome! I think there are a few methods to do this - I just picked what I thought was easiest after a disasterous attempt to move the bogie frames up a la Mercig. I know Farish have to cater for tight corners but can't help but feel the 37 is excessively high..it's not an issue I have with my Western or 24?

 

 

Thanks Jonas - yes I must admit, the method of moving up the bogies does help but I guess further heightens the gap between them and the rail...

 

Note that if you put a sound chip in your 37 you will need to profile the speaker as lowering the body further reduces available space - can be done though :good:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

I've just seen Andy Stroud's 37 on the Blueball Summit thread where he quotes your mod. It looks just right, so I'll follow his example. Thanks for passing on your expertise.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Hi - yes I've done very similar albeit with two extra stages -

  • On the cab interiors I file down the base of each to about half their thickness, also I remove about 0.5mm from the top of the back wall and trim a bit off of the locating tab. I fix these back in, securing them with Micro Kristal Klear, which is basically thick PVA.
  • For the engine room windows, I remove them and cut off the lower 'lip' which holds them in on the inside, this rests on cutouts in the chassis and I was finding it was stopping the body from sitting lower.

Here's some pics of one of my efforts, together with an as yet unaltered 37, hopefully showing the difference in height.

20210422_142213.jpg

20210422_142008.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

Hi Jonas,

Just to clarify, do you discard the cab interior or re-fit it in some way as your photo seems to suggest?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
1 hour ago, Crepello said:

Hi Jonas,

Just to clarify, do you discard the cab interior or re-fit it in some way as your photo seems to suggest?

 I junked the cabs. But with some filing you can refit them, as @yaxxbarlhas shown above.

 

Happy lowering! 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold

Just a recommendation for double- sided tape users:-- fit it to all surfaces, so you get a tape to tape fixing--otherwise those fuel tanks will drop off leading to a nasty accident.........!

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...