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Jinty progress - braking news!


Adrian

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Having received a MOK Standard 4MT kit over Christmas has given added impetus to getting the Jinty finished first. I'm trying to make sure that I finish this Jinty before diving into the 4MT kit, whether my resolution holds will have to be seen.

 

So I've made a little progress on the bodywork, but I've been concentrating on the chassis. I'd like to get a running chassis to test out a MERG CBUS system I'm setting up. So progress to date is shown below.

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The detail changes from previous postings are

  • crankpin nuts - finally got round to fitting some 12BA steel nuts, although they still need thinning down and a washer behind them.
  • brake hangers brackets - I fitted these as specified in the kit, although in reference to the works drawing they seem a little too low, however the hangers themselves seem a little too short so the brake rods should be in the right place. The kit instructions just have a bit of brass rod through them. However I've drilled the outer hole 12BA clearance and the frame and the inner part of the bracket has been tapped 12BA so that hopefully the brakes will all be detachable for painting and maintenance.
  • balance weights - fitted as supplied, I always think a loco character starts to emerge with the balance weights, until them they're just a set of wheels.
  • plunger pickups - I picked these up from a GOG show at Halifax, I think they are from Ron Chaplin but I can't be sure. I always seem to struggle with pickups and these look nicely engineered so I thought I'd give them a try. The plastic bushing needed a little trimming with a scalpel as there wasn't enough room between the S7 frames and the wheels for them.

Now the more observant among you may have noticed that the motor and gearbox has been reversed. The motor is now pointing forwards and into the boiler and smokebox area. With it rear facing it was getting awfully close to the boiler backhead, such that it was going to be difficult to squeeze in a flywheel. By having the motor facing forward then I hope to have enough room to squeeze in a flywheel.

 

Final bit for tonight is the brakes. The kit is supplied with etched components for the brake blocks but I'm always cautious about putting any metal bodywork anywhere near wheels as I think it's a recipe for creating shorts. So the brake blocks are replaced with a nice non-conductive paxolin alternative. This is work in progress, draw a few concentric rings on a sheet of paxolin, mark out the blocks and drill the mounting points 12BA clearance.

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Hopefully get these finished and fitted in the next couple of days - that 4MT kit is calling!!

5 Comments


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1. I'm a little curious as to why you think you need a flywheel if you are using electronic control...

 

2. Why Paxolin - couldn't you use any of those flat rectangles of left-over ABS from your 'Death by a Thousand Cuts'?

 

3. Have you perchance checked out the Perfect Miniatures plunger pickups? Centre sprung, and quite slender...

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Adrian - very nice work, I've just spent an hour or so browsing through the blog, having managed to miss the original thread on RMweb3 - and I think I've picked up a few valuable tips for use on my 009 locos (between staring at the photos with envy, that is) - thanks!

 

Looking forward to seeing the 4MT too, now...

 

Steve

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Thanks everyone for the feedback, it is encouraging. I'll have to switch back to the bodywork as I've just run out of 12BA bolts. I was hoping to pickup some bits from the Preston show at the weekend but it seems like it's either been cancelled or postponed.

 

see note here.

 

Yes the 4MT kit is a whole new level - it's a wonderful incentive to get the Jinty finished.

 

1. I'm a little curious as to why you think you need a flywheel if you are using electronic control...

 

2. Why Paxolin - couldn't you use any of those flat rectangles of left-over ABS from your 'Death by a Thousand Cuts'?

 

3. Have you perchance checked out the Perfect Miniatures plunger pickups? Centre sprung, and quite slender...

 

As to the specific questions, in reply

 

1. No idea really just that's the way I've always done conventional DC loco's, just having a bit of inertia on the motor seem like a good idea to smooth out any cogging or tight spots in the mechanism. Are you saying I don't need one?

 

2. I like paxolin as it's that bit harder than some of the plastics, so I can cut it with a piercing saw and it doesn't clog up the blade and I find it easier to file. I've always preferred metalwork to woodwork and so paxolin is more in line with my style. With the mounting hole near to the edge I think it's that little bit stronger, purely subjective of course.

 

3. No I haven't seen Perfect Miniatures plunger pickups - any known photo's in the wild?

 

Adrian

 

 

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As to the specific questions, in reply

 

1. No idea really just that's the way I've always done conventional DC loco's, just having a bit of inertia on the motor seem like a good idea to smooth out any cogging or tight spots in the mechanism. Are you saying I don't need one?

 

2. I like paxolin as it's that bit harder than some of the plastics, so I can cut it with a piercing saw and it doesn't clog up the blade and I find it easier to file. I've always preferred metalwork to woodwork and so paxolin is more in line with my style. With the mounting hole near to the edge I think it's that little bit stronger, purely subjective of course.

 

3. No I haven't seen Perfect Miniatures plunger pickups - any known photo's in the wild?

1. Since the electronics in theory provide (nearly all) the same effect, a flywheel shouldn't be necessary. As I read the situation, there are those who would fit a flywheel regardless, those who never would, and those who might in order to help 'ride-through' P&C work or inter-baseboard gaps, possibly necessary in a lighter, shorter wheelbase loco - where there is less space to do so! Personal preference or prejudice, as you will.

 

2. Fairy 'snuff.

 

3. Try asking young Buckjumper, he should have the odd or two lurking around his workshop...

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