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Judith Edge Steelman Royale cab + fuel tank.


halfwit

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On to the cab.

The sides overlap the front and rear which locate in a half etched area. The sides also need bending to match the profile of the ends. The cab/fuel tank base is first bolted to the footplate, greased underneath to prevent it being soldered in position. This is what the bodywork is built up on as the body is seperate to the footplate which allows access to the Black Beetle securing screw. It'll all make sense later... The rear is tacked in place first followed by one side.

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The other side and end are then attached followed by the fuel tank former which is soldered to the cab rear. Also at this stage the cab floor/BB mounting plate is added.

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The fuel tank wrapper is bent to match the ends, noting that the half etched end goes to the rear, and soldered in place. Now a fiddly bit. The fuel tank rear is laminated from 3 layers to give the correct relief. The inner lafer is half etched and the two outer layers are have quite thin bars, the very outer one has the light and badge detail. It's a little tricky to keep things straight and in line but patience and a steady hand win through. This part can now be soldered into the fuel tank end. I didn't make a particulary good job of this as there is a gap on one side (my fault not the kit!)

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The fuel tank gauge is tiny, about 1.5mm dia., and laminated from 2 layers. I cleaned the parts up on the fret then cut out the top/outer part. The inner part was tinned whilst still attached then, with the iron held on the fret, the top was sweated in place held with fine tweezers. Success! The cut out on the tank side was tinned, the gauge cut from the fret and cleaned up and, with the iron held next to the gauge, the gauge sweated in place. More success. I was really pleased with that until it fell off whilst I was cleaning the body under the tap with a toothbrush. Rats! Luckily there is a spare on the etch, but I'll attach that later on...

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Next part will be the bonnet.

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I've been looking over the posts about this little shunter with interest as putting together a Judith Edge kit is a long term aspiration of mine. Can I ask a dumb question? What sort of equipment do you need? What kind of iron, iron tips? solder? flux? etc etc. Give me some ideas so I can start to accumulate the right gear!

 

Progress looks lovely to date :)

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Hi James,

Not a dumb question at all.

I use an Antex XS25 soldering iron with the tip that it came with, which is only used for brass work. (I have a spare tip for electrical solder, best not to mix the different solder types up). Solder is Carrs 145 'Detailing Solder' and flux is Carrs Green Label. I also use a couple of Hold + Folds, a 2" Bug and a 5.5". The 2" one is the most used. I work on a flat piece of MDF with a strip of wod glued onto one edge to provide a right angle, usefull for holding buffer beams and cab sides/end square whilst tacking together (seen in my photos). Parts are cut off the fret with a snap-off blade type knife, works for me (mostly...) but some use tin snips or a small chisel. For rivetting I use a gravity type tool, seen in the Hunslet bonnet photo.

Thats what works for me, but I'm sure that if you asked another ten people you'd get ten different answers!

I should also point out that I'm still very new to etched kits, this being my 4th attempt.

 

Paul.

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Nearly forgot, self gripping tweezers are a must for holding small parts together for laminating (i.e. the footsteps and coupling rods).

 

Paul.

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Hi Paul,

 

I've just caught up with this one - nice progress and looking nice and clean.

 

A small bit of advice if you will accept it on the fuel cap and ant other tiny little bits that are put on early (sometimes too early) in the build. Use a higher melt solder. I use a range of solders 138/145/179/212/ and an old one that must be well above 250 - if you plan their use it can be much easier to avoid the detailing bits sliding off when you heat something nearby.

 

Though in this case it sounds like the join was not a good one in the first place if it was broken by the action of a toothbrush in cleaning.

 

Good to see another JE kit going together.

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Thanks Kenton, I've never thought of using different solders, makes a lot of sense. Although on my A1 Models 48DS I soldered the footsteps on with 70 degree whitemetal solder before finding out that you shoudn't, the're still attached though!

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Go for it James! The Steelman is, I think, a very well designed kit which makes me want to build more JE stuff.

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