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Judith Edge Steelman Royale bonnet.

halfwit

Entry posted by halfwit

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A former is soldered onto the cab front and the cab is then greased and bolted to the footplate, as is the front baseplate. The bonnet sides are then soldered to the cab front and the base after riveting the bottom edge.

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The bonnet front/radiater is attached at this stage. It is laminated from 2 layers similar to the fuel tank rear except that it's larger and more delicate. So I had the bright idea of cutting it from the fret with a piercing saw which just bent it (my fault!). I straightened out one edge, soldered it in place then straightened and soldered the opposite edge, the bottom then the top. Luckily I got away with it but next time I'll stick to cutting parts off with a knife...

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Another lesson learnt.

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Michael Edge
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The etched parts are designed to be cut out with snips, all the tags are located with this in mind. It's a little difficult to describe (easier to show this - come and talk to me at an exhibition) but cut away the fret around delicate parts like this as you go and only make cuts which will not put any bending strain on the part you want. After a while you get the knack of this process.

Michael Edge

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Michael Edge
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Further to my last comment I noticed in one of your photos that the remaining etch is still in one piece - at this stage I have a pile of scrap bits as I have progressively cut the etch up.

Michael Edge

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halfwit

Thanks Michael. I obviously need to buy some snips! I thought using a fine sawblade would be gentler but not so, hopefully someone will learn from my mistake! It still looks good despite my lack of skill...

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clarkea1

I'm sure other brands of snips are fine, but i find the xuron shears are brilliant and cut with minimal distortion. I think they do a range of types but i use a pair of their rail cutters on etch cutting with no probs. Trying to get a part to stay flat though whilst pushing through half etched rivets, now that's a different story!

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halfwit

I have a pair of Xuron rail cutters, probably over 15 years old, which are somewhat knackered. I can't remember what I've used them on but it must have been pretty tough... very good for brass rod though.

I'm with you on the rivetting, see my first post on this blog (Hunslet bonnet + footplate).

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Michael Edge
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Xuron shears are excellent but a little short. Don't confuse shears with the cutters, they won't do the job without some distortion. The Xuron shears (or good quality tinsnips) will cut the tags off very cleanly with litle or no filing necessary. This is really essential for very delicate parts. I should have said by now that I think you are making an excellent job of this kit.

Michael Edge

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Kenton

I'm with you on the rivetting, see my first post on this blog (Hunslet bonnet + footplate).

Of course the ultimate in rivet pushing is the GW press - as this has a supporting angle and a vernier table it is easy to get precisely positioned rivets with no distortion - even on narrow strips of brass.

The only downside is that it is not cheap and unless you build lots of kits it is difficult to justify.

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