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Pugsley

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Well, more like slap on filler and sand off. It's coming on, with a little help from my new friends:

11qtd5.jpg

The sanding sticks have proved to be a worthwhile investment for this project (I got mine from Netmerchants) not exactly cheap, but not ludicrously expensive either, in the grand scheme of things. More of this later though.

 

Riveting - Part 1

Through filling the second set of footsteps in the tumblehome of the loco, losing some of the moulded rivet detail around the area was inevitable. However, all is not lost:

11qtdf.jpg

These really are good, I bought them ages ago for another project (actually exactly the same problem as here, but in 4mm scale!) but they've sat in a drawer for ages. They arrived from the US in roughly 4 days after ordering - sterling service. They are effectively blobs of resin on waterslide decal paper and apply exactly like a transfer. The instructions recommend fixing in place with Klear, which I would endorse, they may come off a little too easily if you don't (found that out the hard way).

 

11qtds.jpg

 

The results are worthwhile - this job would be a real bu**er to do if they didn't exist!

 

Drilling down

I've also taken the opportunity to finish off the two cab ends whilst the potential for distraction was reduced. At this stage I've drilled out the tail and marker lights in preparation for fitting the lighting at a later stage in the build. These were easy, selecting the right size of drill to fit the aperture, using the existing shallow holes as a guide, meant that the holes were automatically centred.

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The headlights weren't going to be so easy. In order to show the marking out a bit better, the headlight was coloured in with a pencil. The overall width of the light was measured in terms of both height and width. By calculating half of both dimensions, setting the calipers and using the outside of the light housing as a guide, I was able to accurately mark the centre of the aperture. Once marked, I carefully used a 0.5mm drill to find the centre marking and drill a pilot hole.

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Once the pilot holes were drilled (above) I opened them out with a 1.0mm drill, right through. this was then the guide for a 3.5mm drill that I only drilled part way down, so that the angle of the drilled hole forms the shape of the reflector. More on this in a later chapter.

 

Riveting - Part 2

I needed to make a blanking plate for the boiler exhaust aperture, so made one from 5 thou brass sheet that was to had. The blanking plate was measured, and the piece marked out before cutting with sharp scissors. They're not quite so sharp now ;)

 

11qt9v.jpg

 

Whilst at the Reading show back in December, I purchased one of the GW Models rivet presses, which I thought would be ideal for forming the rivets on the plate. It turns out that it was! I used the calipers to mark 2mm in from each corner and used the punch to create the rivet in this location. the plate was rolled with a bit of brass tube on a pad of kitchen towel to make it conform to the roof profile.

 

11qtd1.jpg

 

After gluing it in place, I realised that it was sticking up far too far. I've since removed the boiler port so that the plate is now flush to the roof. The port was removed with a combination of scraping and filing and the plate re-secured with CA adhesive.

 

Back to the start

And now 'tis back to the start and the reasons for massive filler consumption and dust generation. Firstly, the cab mouldings required a lot of fettling in order to get them to fit and even then required a far bit of filler to get the profile to match the rest of the body, more than I expected TBH. Got there in the end, although I expect to have to do a little more fettling after the body is primed.

 

11q6mi.jpg

 

This was the biggest use of filler - as the kit is supplied, there is one more bar in the cantrail grilles than there should be, 11 bars instead of 10. I'm not sure if this is a design error, or a design compromise - the joint between body and sides would be less straightforward if it had been stepped. I've filled this with the green stuff, but would use a suitably sized piece of plasticard in each aperture to be filled if I was to do it again.

 

It's still a little rough round the edges in the cantrail grille area, this is one of the tasks to complete this week, along with assembling the bogies to a certain extent, although not quite for the reason you may think. More elaboration on that mystery in the next (thrilling?) episode.... :D

 

Thanks for reading - especially if you got all the way down here.. :huh: ;) :D

7 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

Excellent work there Mr. Pugley... further to your comment to the sanding sticks - I think 'squadrons' sanding sticks are the bees knees too but might I add (I got this recommendation from a talented aero/railway modeller who is a wizz with plastic - sorry Paul if you're reading this) the products from 'flexifile' - they do sanding sticks like 'squadrons' but the flexifile itself is a natty abrasive strip held in a metal frame which is great for sanding off curves - you probably wouldn't need it on this model but once used never forgotten.

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Martin amazing attention to detail and a captivating read. Thankyou for sharing in so much detail and I can't wait to watch this model progress :)

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Sanding sticks can be made cheaply by using PVA glue to stick a load of lolly sticks, (available in supermarkets etc), onto various grades of wet-or-dry paper, then cutting round the sticks with a craft knife. You can then have loads of any grade you want.

 

I've also made some from 20x10mm stripwood, with the "sandpaper" on the 10mm side, excellent for sanding areas which need to be kept flat, the stripwood won't flex.

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The things that doctors hold your tongue down with are good for larger flat areas, I also cover them with various grades of wet & dry.

Bill

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Thanks for the comments guys - sorry for the delay in replying, I ddn't think there'd been any replies from the front page.

 

You are, of course, quite right, that you can make your own sanding sticks rather cheaply. This is probably what I'll do in future, now that I'm OK with the concept and they've proved themselves extremely useful.

 

Griff - I'll check out the flexifile products, they sound useful.

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Guest Simon Dunkley

Posted

Hi Martin,

 

The images have gone from this part.

 

Simon

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So they have! I'd linked the images here to my Fotopic account, that'll teach me to be clever. I'll sort those out later, thanks for bringing to my attention :)

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