Track for the London Bridge project
For my London Bridge project I’m obviously wanting to use the best looking N gauge track possible. And now I think I’ve finally decided on the way to go. For the plain track I’ll be using the 2mmSA Easitrack which is easy and quick to put together and has the benefits of;
* Being able to run my N gauge stock on it without any re-wheeling.
* Concrete and wooden sleeper and flat-bottom and bull-head rail options available.
* Has finer low profile height code 40 rail.
* Has more accurate sleeper sizes and sleeper spacing (compared with Peco).
* Has a low overall sleeper/base height so minimising ballasting effort (deep filling with Peco is not required).
I’m currently experimenting with it on the photo-diorama I’m building (see earlier in my blog for details and pictures). For the points I’m also hoping to use Easitrack but built to N gauge standards. This gives me the following benefits;
* All the benefits of the plain track regarding look and scale (sleeper size/spacing/height and rail height).
* Pre-milled point bases available in most sizes from the 2mmSA.
* Finer flange-ways (than the Peco points) that accept the current N gauge RP25 wheel standards.
I’ve attended a workshop run in conjunction with my club, Easitrack and the 2mmSA and have effectively built a point to those standards. Special crossing jigs are available for the N gauge flange-way size and all the other jigs are as per the 2mmFS versions (apart, obviously from 9mm gauge rollers). There is minimal soldering - just a bit to hold the crossing vee and wing rails in place as one assembly - and everything else is glued on with plastic chairs holding the rails.
The overall benefits of this for me are that;
* I’ll end up with better finer scale looking track that accepts N gauge stock.
* There is no need (saved time and cost) to replace all wheel-sets with 2mmFS ones.
* I can still use N gauge Peco track and points in the fiddle yard and any hidden tracks.
Below is a pic of the jigs and gauges; left to right; vee creation jig, N gauge crossing jig, N roller gauges. And below that is another crossing that I built at the workshop showing the minimal soldering required. The crossing is held down in place on the point base by plastic chairs that slide on to the rails and are glued to the sleepers;
See the 7th added comment for infor about the pic below;
G.
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