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Track for the London Bridge project


grahame

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For my London Bridge project I’m obviously wanting to use the best looking N gauge track possible. And now I think I’ve finally decided on the way to go. For the plain track I’ll be using the 2mmSA Easitrack which is easy and quick to put together and has the benefits of;

 

* Being able to run my N gauge stock on it without any re-wheeling.

* Concrete and wooden sleeper and flat-bottom and bull-head rail options available.

* Has finer low profile height code 40 rail.

* Has more accurate sleeper sizes and sleeper spacing (compared with Peco).

* Has a low overall sleeper/base height so minimising ballasting effort (deep filling with Peco is not required).

 

I’m currently experimenting with it on the photo-diorama I’m building (see earlier in my blog for details and pictures). For the points I’m also hoping to use Easitrack but built to N gauge standards. This gives me the following benefits;

 

* All the benefits of the plain track regarding look and scale (sleeper size/spacing/height and rail height).

* Pre-milled point bases available in most sizes from the 2mmSA.

* Finer flange-ways (than the Peco points) that accept the current N gauge RP25 wheel standards.

 

I’ve attended a workshop run in conjunction with my club, Easitrack and the 2mmSA and have effectively built a point to those standards. Special crossing jigs are available for the N gauge flange-way size and all the other jigs are as per the 2mmFS versions (apart, obviously from 9mm gauge rollers). There is minimal soldering - just a bit to hold the crossing vee and wing rails in place as one assembly - and everything else is glued on with plastic chairs holding the rails.

 

blogentry-33-126995220471_thumb.jpg

 

The overall benefits of this for me are that;

 

* I’ll end up with better finer scale looking track that accepts N gauge stock.

* There is no need (saved time and cost) to replace all wheel-sets with 2mmFS ones.

* I can still use N gauge Peco track and points in the fiddle yard and any hidden tracks.

 

Below is a pic of the jigs and gauges; left to right; vee creation jig, N gauge crossing jig, N roller gauges. And below that is another crossing that I built at the workshop showing the minimal soldering required. The crossing is held down in place on the point base by plastic chairs that slide on to the rails and are glued to the sleepers;

 

blogentry-33-126995458815_thumb.jpg

 

blogentry-33-126995459955_thumb.jpg

 

See the 7th added comment for infor about the pic below;

 

blogentry-33-127012685401.jpg

 

 

 

G.

9 Comments


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Sounds like a worthwhile and productive day Grahame. I hope others attending gained as much from the experience.

 

Accepting that some of the oldest and coarsest N wheelsets are not compatible with Easitrac it is an immensely useful system for N modellers as well as 2mm. We can all understand anyones reluctance make the wholesale alterations that changing from N to 2mm requires, especially regarding existing layout(s) and large model collections. The turnout especially looks, at least from the camera viewpoint, indistinguishable from 2mm standards.

 

Michael

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Hello again Grahame- we have conversed on this most interesting topic before.....

 

May I ask- am I right in thinking that you are going to use Easitrack track bases for plain track- at 2mm finescale gauging?

 

And are the pre-milled point bases going to be used at their correct (finescale) gauge- but just with different flangeway clearances?

 

If so- this is going to solve a problem I have been mulling over for ..er...years!

 

If it all works (and I sincerely hope it does) please post your findings immediately!

 

Yours with bated breath and poised soldering iron....

 

Peter

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Hello again Grahame- we have conversed on this most interesting topic before.....May I ask- am I right in thinking that you are going to use Easitrack track bases for plain track- at 2mm finescale gauging?

And are the pre-milled point bases going to be used at their correct (finescale) gauge- but just with different flangeway clearances?

 

Yes, the plain track is 2mmFS Easitrack built as it's supplied; to 2mmFS 9.42mm gauge - it's simply a matter of sliding the rail in to the pre-moulded chairs on the sleepers base sections (no soldering or gluing required).

 

The points are made using 2mmFS components (pre-milled track base, rail and chairs) but built to 'N' 9mm gauge and N gauge NMRA flange-way clearances (which are a lot finer than Peco points but a little larger than 2mmFS) using a special N crossing jig rather than the 2mm one. Obviously to join the plain track (at 9.42mm) to the points (at 9mm) the rail needs to be slightly flared/tapered. It's hardly noticable because you're only talking about a deflection of less than a quarter of a millimeter for each rail. In fact if you look at the photo you'll notice a small piece of Easitrack plain track base butting up the point at the left end with the rails slightly diverging between it and the point.

 

G.

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thanks Grahame- the penny has finally dropped. because the Easitrack system has glued-down chairs holding the track to the milled point base- you can put it wherever you need it- right?

 

So, next question (you knew there would be!) where do I get the 'special n crossing jig" and flangeway thingummies?

 

thanks in anticipation......

 

 

 

Yes, the plain track is 2mmFS Easitrack built as it's supplied; to 2mmFS 9.42mm gauge - it's simply a matter of sliding the rail in to the pre-moulded chairs on the sleepers base sections (no soldering or gluing required).

 

The points are made using 2mmFS components (pre-milled track base, rail and chairs) but built to 'N' 9mm gauge and N gauge NMRA flange-way clearances (which are a lot finer than Peco points but a little larger than 2mmFS) using a special N crossing jig rather than the 2mm one. Obviously to join the plain track (at 9.42mm) to the points (at 9mm) the rail needs to be slightly flared/tapered. It's hardly noticable because you're only talking about a deflection of less than a quarter of a millimeter for each rail. In fact if you look at the photo you'll notice a small piece of Easitrack plain track base butting up the point at the left end with the rails slightly diverging between it and the point.

 

G.

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So, next question (you knew there would be!) where do I get the 'special n crossing jig" and flangeway thingummies?

 

 

The point bases and vee filing jig (one on the left in pic) are available from the 2mmSA shop - you need to be a member to purchase from it. The special N gauge flange-way crossing assembly jig (middle aluminium one in pic) was specially produced. Contact Noel Lever on the Yahoo group as he is collating interest for the next batch;

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ngauge/message/117741

 

G.

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Hi,

I too will be following progress on this with great interest.

I certainly don't feel confident enough to tackle pointwork (especially slips and scissors crossovers!) with so little experience, but I will be having a look at the plain track with a view to following Etched Pixels example on using it in conjunction with the Peco Code 55 points. His filing of the point rail ends to lead into the wider gauge of the plain track looks do-able as a trial with my skill level. I have a couple of spare small radius points available to sacrifice for a test piece.

 

Regards, Gerry.

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I too will be following progress on this with great interest.

I certainly don't feel confident enough to tackle pointwork (especially slips and scissors crossovers!) with so little experience, but I will be having a look at the plain track with a view to following Etched Pixels example on using it in conjunction with the Peco Code 55 points. His filing of the point rail ends to lead into the wider gauge of the plain track looks do-able as a trial with my skill level. I have a couple of spare small radius points available to sacrifice for a test piece.

 

You don't need to file the rail ends to match up the Easitrack 9.42 gauge with Peco points 9mm gauge. You can make the transisition at the end of the length of Easitrack so that the rails match up gauge wise - although they will still be different heights; code 40 to psuedo code 55. I'll add a photo to this thread showing a multi-gauge bit of Easitrack.

 

The 9mm gauge is on the left for the first two sleepers and the 9.42 gauge is for the last two sleepers on the right. The middle two sleepers are the transisition sleepers and have no inner chairs (cosmetic ones could easily be glued in place). Bearing in mind how blown up and times greater than real life the pic is, once ballasted, painted and weathered it should be more than acceptable with no obvious joggle or joint between the two gauges showing.

 

G.

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Grahame, hello again.

 

I'm finally ready! I've joined the 2mm Association (after deliberating for about thirty eight years) and have bought all the bits, together with the jigs and gauges via Noel Leaver.

 

But characteristically I have hit a snag before I've even started- or perhaps I'm thinking this through too much.

 

It's just occurred to me that the check rails are held in place by double chairs- and hence the flangeway gap will be to 2mm finescale standards.

 

This is going to be a problem isn't it? If so- how did you work around it?

 

Best

 

Peter

 

 

 

I too will be following progress on this with great interest.

I certainly don't feel confident enough to tackle pointwork (especially slips and scissors crossovers!) with so little experience, but I will be having a look at the plain track with a view to following Etched Pixels example on using it in conjunction with the Peco Code 55 points. His filing of the point rail ends to lead into the wider gauge of the plain track looks do-able as a trial with my skill level. I have a couple of spare small radius points available to sacrifice for a test piece.

 

You don't need to file the rail ends to match up the Easitrack 9.42 gauge with Peco points 9mm gauge. You can make the transisition at the end of the length of Easitrack so that the rails match up gauge wise - although they will still be different heights; code 40 to psuedo code 55. I'll add a photo to this thread showing a multi-gauge bit of Easitrack.

 

The 9mm gauge is on the left for the first two sleepers and the 9.42 gauge is for the last two sleepers on the right. The middle two sleepers are the transisition sleepers and have no inner chairs (cosmetic ones could easily be glued in place). Bearing in mind how blown up and times greater than real life the pic is, once ballasted, painted and weathered it should be more than acceptable with no obvious joggle or joint between the two gauges showing.

 

G.

 

 

 

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