Thanks Nick.

The instructions do state that it can be made to work, the main problem is replicating hot slag for it to tip...

Paul.

Very nicely finished Paul, I like the rusty look and those 'greased' springs are a nice touch, I'll be copying that! Did you see this, a nice colour photo of a slag ladle?

http://www.rmweb.co....__1#entry424683

I use a similar technique for the white lettering but with a Uniball Signio white gel pen, an idea I found on RMWeb.

It occurs to me that if Undecided Aggregates became Undecided Slag Reclamation your wagon could find a home!

I received five from Robert earlier this week and am close to finishing one. Making them tip would be a challenge but I'm surprised how well the ladle tips on it's trunnions just as it is. It is a nice little kit. How did you assemble yours? I know you araldited the ladle halves, did you use any solder? I've used a mix of techniques.

p.s. if this posting goes through it would seem that the reason I couldn't post comments on Blogs is an issue with Opera as my browser.

Edit; that's that confirmed then!

Thanks Arthur,

I used Araldite throughout assembly apart from some small detail items which are superglued. Mine is an early kit before Robert redesigned it with etched parts.

One day I'll build a whole rake of them, although I doubt that I'll ever have the room for a steelworks layout.

The photo that you've linked to is indeed usefull (I had noticed it), good colour photos of slag wagons are seemingly rare.

Hopefully I'll be starting some of RT Models Skinningrove wagons soon.

Paul.

looks good,i am waiting to start mine,that picture is from corby where i used to watch the shunters at the works with about 20 of the wagons ,will have to see how i get on with 1 !...

Thanks for the comment Al.

I'm really quite jealous of the fact that you used to watch these get shunted!

Paul.

I have just read with interest the articles by Halfwit on the building of the R.B. Model (ex Clarke) Stanton slag ladle and car kit.

Some of the questions that have resulted from this series of articles I have all ready had to sort out when I built my first Clarke kit when they were first introduced. With experience I have found that when building in "00" it is better to make the side frames 9 mm. wide rather than the 10.5 mm. stated in the drawings supplied. The 9 mm. will enable the wheel back to back to be achieved.

The pin/bolt on the buffer upper gusset is intended for the end of the chain to be placed on when not in use. If not stowed the chain will be dragged along the floor. If we could see the opposite side of the photo we would see that the end of the chain would be fitted on the pin/bolt.

On the drawing a length of wire is bent up to form the two lower retaining hooks for the chain at the non operating end (see photo supplied). A neater job can be made by drilling two 0.05 mm. holes into the buffer beam where the hooks should be and inserting a small bent piece of wire held in with super glue.

The pulleys in the base plate are too close to the centre of the car and should be moved towards the axle so that the chain does not foul the ladle when tipping.

The rusty paint finish you have achieved is to be recommended, but it is too clean!

When in service they were stained and splashed with all sorts of things, lime, slag dust, sand and lumps of slag in all the out of the way places. The bottom plate would be full of spilt slag along with a good amount on the buffer stocks.

Orange rust stains were a common sight around the tipping gear and where things were coming loose. These wagons saw some very rough treatment with very little maintenance. I know I have emptied them.

On my "00" Sheepbridge Iron Works layout the slag is left to cool before being tipped, so the slag comes out in solid lumps to be broken up in to road stone etc.

I have there fore simulated the running slag from the blast furnace and down into the ladle below with a tapered piece of thin perspex painted with orange paint, the ladle is half full of liquid slag made from polyfiller and sawdust mixed with water and orange acrylic paint with a small amount of orange fluorescent paint to simulate heat.

I still prefer to use the original method of producing the eight holes in the wheels, which was to fill the centre with filler and drill the eight-hole 0 .75mm. with a jig.

I hope that these comments will help new builders achieve a better model slag pot and car supplied by R.B.Models.

What could you put in it to model it as a full wagon ?

I'm not sure Brian, at a guess I'd say some kind of plaster with a stippled surface painted with a mix of oranges, browns and yellows? Painting and weathering are not my strong points I'm afraid. There is some nice work in RT Models gallery.

Paul.

Hi all, has anyone on here built one of these with the new type wheels yet? If so what is the best way of fitting the wheels