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Well OK Then, Five Brakes!


Dave at Honley Tank

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My mentors taught me to build locos with split axle current collection and to spring those axles downwards. Its simple model engineering and is, in my view at least, easier than beams all over the place. So perhaps I can be said to be totally in favour of springing, certainly for locos.

 

 

 

Building locos is where I get the most pleasure and rolling stock tends to be “one of those things you need but……â€

 

 

 

None the less, as now, I occasionally go off into a rolling stock building spree just for a change. There tends to be less model engineering with wagons and things, particularly if one is building them based on plastic kits.

 

 

When I first started building to P4 standards the word was that all wagons needed compensation and there was much addo about three-legged-stools. So I used the rocking W iron system that had become available due to this then new-fangled etched brass system of parts production. This three-legged thing I saw as being brilliant, because with the old solid axle system it was difficult to ensure axles were level and parallel and that all wheels sat on the track. No vehicle will run well if those three conditions are not met.

 

 

 

The last condition occurs naturally with rockers, and the axles also find a position that is supposed to keep the body from rocking, however it is still down to the builder to get the axles parallel. Done well the idea is good, but doing it well does demand a rigorous skill level, particularly in ensuring parallelism, and, dependent on the quality of the track, compensation is not the must that was being inferred in those far off days. I have quite a good number of kit built wagons on which I arranged for the axles to be minutely sloppy between their bearings and they all perform admirably on my far from perfect track work; - wobbly wheel system!

 

 

 

The first springing system I used was ‘Masokits’. I used his system on one wagon and one coach. A bit complicated, a bid fiddly, but parallel axles are built-in and both vehicles run very well. Next, along came Mr Bedford, (are you there Bill?) and to compare with Masokits this design is quite simple and not quite as fiddly but leaves you to sort out the parallel axle bit and please believe me, without parallel axles, running will always be doubtful at very best.

 

 

 

I had decided to use Bill’s system on all future builds, mainly based of its simplicity, and I had done a few before my brain began thinking in terms of that parallel problem. Now in my early engineering training one thing seemed to crop up time and time again – the art of good engineering design is to copy but improve on a proven design; so why not apply Masokits method of achieving parallel axles to Bill’s simple, sprung W iron units?

 

 

 

I now mount Bill’s completed W iron units on a central spine of 0.018†nickel silver but the spine is jig drilled so as to allow dowel location of the W irons such that they are exactly on wheelbase centres and truly parallel to each other. When thus located the W irons are soldered to the spine. This has also been jig drilled for dowel location to the vehicle floor and for a central hole to allow screw fixing to the floor.

 

 

 

A friend at Manchester MRS (www.palatinemodels.co.uk) had some standardised spines etched for me to save on the jig drilling and these are now available to all. Starting the project to build five Toad Ds I found that I had no etched spines in stock so I fabricated some from 0.018 nickel-silver, using my original drilling jigs.

 

 

 

This series of photos should explain it all much better than words:-

 

 

 

This one shows the spine with two Bill Bedford sprung W irons soldered to it. The two smaller holes on Bill’s etches were used to dowel the W irons to the spine prior to soldering, ensuring all is square and on correct wheelbase due to the matching dowel holes in the spine.

 

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The cosmetic chassis needs a flat bottom on which the kit’s under-frame will be mounted and, for the version with inside ballast weights, the top plate needs to be thinner than that provided in the kit, which represents the concrete slabs. This top is a 0.030†thick strip laminated to a 0.060†thick stiffener. Kit parts are welded to the top plate and the stiffener fits inside the solebar-headstock assembly. The steps have been shortened and while the kit MEK-welding points are used, strength is added by the 0.45†diameter rods araldited to the central vertical straps and pushed into holes drilled into the bottom of the solebars. The model’s ballast weight is also shown here. It also acts as a nut to hold all four parts together!

 

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This one shows how the full model is assembled from four parts.

 

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Here can be seen the 8BA screw which holds the spine to the running plate; to the body floor and to the ballast weight, clamping all three together after they are correctly located by dowels.

 

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Looking from above and showing the ballast weight. In running condition the model weighs about 2.5 ounces

 

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A side view of the near complete model is shown here

 

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And finally a comparison of my version with the Bachmann version.

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4 Comments


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Dave,

 

These are looking very nice. Although my locos are generally compensated, I must say I'm convinced by springing for wagons rather than rocking w-irons.

Your spine jig is a good idea to keep the axles square to the chassis and parallel to each other. Brassmasters also do an axle alignment jig that fits between the wheels on the plain 2 mm diameter axle.

 

Dave.

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Thanks David,

Yes I made similar jigs to those from Brassmasters et al as and when I required them i.e. made one for ten foot then perhaps for a 9'6" etc, but they are certainly not fool-proof

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I'm always amazed at the lengths people will go to make simple thing complicated. Don't you use straight solebars on your wagons? If both w-iron units are square to at least one of the solebars won't the axles be parallel? There is a jig for fixing the wheelbase , but sometimes it's better to match the w-irons to the pattern of bolt-heads on the solebars. The jig will accommodate wheelbases in 6" steps.

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I'm surprised at you Bill. You know as well as any one of us that the idea of using jigs is to ensure accuracy at the assembly stage without the person doing that assembly needing to be particularly skilled. Simply stated, jigs = accuracy; always assuming that the jigs are accurate!

The fact that my friends went to the trouble of having some spines etched was driven by the need for the Slattocks team to build goods wagons by the hundered and the need that each wagon must be a good runner irespective of the skill level of the wagon builder.

The fact is that however complicated you may see what I have tried to describe, if the (your!) W irons are temporarily doweled to a spine then they will be held firmly square, parallel and on wheelbase leaving all hands free for the soldering job; no measuring, no marking out, low skill level.

 

"Don't you use straight solebars on your wagons?" I use the solebars that come with the kit!

 

"If both w-iron units are square to at least one of the solebars won't the axles be parallel? " Yes but I need the skill to make them square to the solebars!

I said in an earlier post that I had made jigs individually as needed; I could add "before yours or Brassmaster's were available";)

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