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76010 The start


brightspark

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The plan is to build a model of 76010 picking up on the errors made on 76009.

There are some differences. 76009 was based on a Comet Chassis, this is based on a Branchlines chassis.

This blog will record my progress both good and bad. Your comments and suggestions are welcome. Hopefully this will help anyone who wants to see how this chassis goes together or even want to see how to put together an etched chassis /kit. This is how I do it...this time around. It is neither right nor entirely wrong.

So here is the starting point...Define the problem

This will be a model of 76010 built in EM gauge as she was in May/June 1960. The target is to have this running at the Chatham show in June. But that looks really too close so lets set a more realistic target...the plan is to get the chassis rolling around the EMGS test track at ExpoEM in May. For the record I broke the seals of the pack during the Christmas holidays* so this is progress up to the end of January.

Branchlines sell several packs for the Class 4. I will only be using two of them as the complete pack contains parts to make an OO chassis.

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The first pack is a chassis pack while the second is the detail pack. For the moment the latter will be put to one side.

Here are the contents of the chassis pack.

The next task is to read through the instructions which include a nice exploded diagram. Now we identify the parts on the fret and bag.

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Then it’s time for a little maths.

Frame width!

The etch is .018†(0,46mm) thick Nickel Silver.

The frame spacers provided are;

OO = 10,7mm

EM= 13mm

P4=14,6mm

The spacers are tabbed and fit into slots on the frame.

The calculated overall frame width for each gauge is therefore.

OO = 11,62mm

EM = 13,92mm

P4 = 15,52mm

Including the heads of the Romford bushes (0,8mm) that gives total width at the axle of

OO = 13,22

EM = 15,52

P4 = 17,12

If I was using sprung horn guides then I could use the P4 spacers, however I am using the shouldered bushes so I will use the EM spacer.

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The next picture shows the frames cut out and cleaned up, the frame spacers (err these are the wrong ones...I told you to identify the correct parts and these are the P4 spacers), the coupling rods and the extra strapping for the firebox. (one side fitted)

Another important thing to remember is that the half etch line goes on the inside of the bend. I forgot on some of the spacers. This is not a tragedy as I just have to fettle the tabs to get them to fit into the slots on the frames.

The coupling rods are now made up as a matched pair. The centres are then measured and the driving wheel centres are checked to make sure that they are also at the same distance.

In this case the centres are spot on so I go ahead and open up the holes for the axle bearings.

Then the whole lot is set up on the building jig for assembly.

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This is a construction taken from the Ian Rice book on Loco Chassis construction. It is made from MDF. On the surface sits two sine bars. These are two steel bars that are square, flat and the same height. On top of these sit three 1/8†silver steel bars that are 12 inches long. These are threaded through the axle bearings that are loosely fitted into the frames. The 1/8†bars are held in place with Blue Tack and at the extreme ends of the bars rest the coupling rods.

The chassis is then soldered together to produce this.

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I have soldered on a few of the nuts (but ran out of 2mm) and have also started on the pony truck.

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The tabs fitted nicely and after fixing the uprights I removed the small lip. I don’t think that you would need to do this for P4 and I have no idea for OO as to have to use the inner slots for the uprights and reduce the frame width.

 

The next task is to purchase the extra nuts and the axle bushes. That will be at this weekend’s show in Southampton. I think that Eileen’s will be there.

I will also have to order the wheels and various boiler fittings from Alan Gibson.

Plus and I guess that this might be important...an Airfix/Dapol kit.

 

Until next time...

If you are at Southampton, say hello.

 

Andy

 

*Holidays being when RMweb went off line and we all had to find something to do. :)

Aplos to AY

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Hi I like the way you set out the chassis for soldering together does it work with sprung and compensated chassis ?

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I don't suppose that there's any reason why the same sort of jig could not be used - the cutouts can be removed once the chassis has been erected after all (just done this on an Austerity in fact). Being a Rice derived idea, I'd suspect that it will be designed with that in mind. BTW Andy, it's good to see some 'proper' chassis building rather than regauging RTR(!).

 

I'll be at the Soton show on the Sunday so if I see you, I'll say hi.

 

Adam

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Where the Branchlines chassis scores is in the frame detail - it's a beautiful job, with as much rivet detail as you could ever want.

 

Good luck with the Branchlines crossheads, though. I found Comet ones easier to use.

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Hi N15. I have not tried it with a compensated chassis. This being only the second chassis I have built using the jig and both being rigid. However as Adam said being a Rice derived idea it should do the job.

But I would not imagine going down the route that Adam suggests of removing cut-outs after assembly.

I would suggest that they are removed before and that the bearings in their housings are fixed in the same manner as above.

I think that the critical areas are getting the frames parallel, perpendicular to the end plate and that the axles are the same and on the same centres as the coupling rods.

 

You could say perhaps Parallel, Perpendicular and Precisely aligned. Is it possible to get another long P word in there?

 

I agree with Horsetan the rivet detail is nice as well as the various holes in the frames (lifting eyes?) all sadly missing from the Comet chassis. However I am aware that Comet is intending to review their chassis soon.

As for the cross heads...we will have to see. I did have some problems with the Comet ones. Perhaps I should take pictures of both to compare when I get to that bit.

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I only ever used 1/8" bar with the ends turned down to take the coupling rods, I think this method you use is far better. I have a jig in o gauge that does a very similar thing.

I had used Comet chassis they worked well. Never did a branchlines one. think I did a couple of coaches though.

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Apologies for intruding again. For the sake of clarification: I'm not saying removing the cutouts for hornguides is ideal - in the case of the Austerity, it was purely to provide a datum for square assembly at both ends of the frame (the middle cutout went whilst the frames were in the fret, in both cases using a piercing saw rather than something like a slitting disk).

 

I would not recommend it as a general approach (any form of jig would be likely yield a more consistent chance of success), but something like the frames of an Austerity are basically a box and, once assembled, very rigid - hence the desire to want them properly and precisely set up at the first time of asking. Thinner frames with a more intricate shape - such as those of the Standard 4 4-6-0 (Mk 1 Comet*) - I also have on the go would not lend themselves to the same tactic!

 

Adam

 

* At least, I think it is, there are no markings on the etches. I believe that the current version is mk 2, but still quite crude by comparison to the Branchlines effort for its Mogul cousin.

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Hi N15,

I am in two minds about getting the ends turned down to take the coupling rods. I think that it would certainly make life a little easier in setting up and Mr Rice indicates that this is the preffered method. However it has occured to me that the rods might bend as they are being forced into a position. My thinking for my method (apart from being too mean to pay to get them turned down) is that they are free to float and so by resting the coupling rods on top of the SS rods you get a report as to their location.

 

Hi Adam,

Are we going to see your Std 4 running on Swaynton?

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