Oooh, proper engineering stuff B) I'd be interested in any tips you can impart on parting off - it's something I've had a bit of trouble with, to the point that what little things I've done so far on the lathe, I've sawn them off and then faced true again - there is definitely a better way (especially if I end up doing the same sort of thing as you are here one day!)

I guess making a centre height gauge would be useful for setting the tool up, and getting it exactly on centre is critical?

Edit - Seeing your pics has reminded me that I must get a quick change toolpost for mine!

Some nice rescue work there! Is there any reason why you used cast iron rather than steel for the new tyre? For what will end up being quite a thin tyre I'd have thought that cast iron would be a bit fragile, or was it just what was to hand?

Adrian, it was what I had lying about and it was about the right diameter! I do find boring cast iron easier on these small lathes as well.

Pugsley, do you have a saddle lock fitted? If there is any movement in the gibs it will cause terrible chatter. You can also get parting tools with tct inserts and they are quite handy.I am no expert but a firm steady feed works best for me when parting off. What you want to avoid is the tool digging into the work as it will break the blade or worse. Really It is a question of practice and learning the limitations of the machine. I was used to an ml7, so I have had to learn to be a little more gentle with this machine! Even so now it has been tweaked it is capable of accurate work.

Thanks - I know cast iron can be nice to turn once you get it to "sing".

Nice work.

I'm only an amateur with lathe work but for parting off I find it's better to have the parting tool a few thou below centre height as this prevents any tendency to dig in. Many model engineers prefer a rear mounted toolpost (with inverted tool) for parting off as it is a stronger set up.

Thanks 28ten - I'm not sure if I've got a saddle lock fitted, it's been that long since I've been near the lathe! I'm pretty sure it has though. What have you done in the way of tweaks to your lathe, out of interest?

Smokebox - thanks for the additional tip.

Smokebox, good suggestion, i should have mentioned it, but I am only an amateur bodger!

Pugsley the saddle lock is not standard, but it is dead easy to do, I can take a pic if you like. Other mods are replace the carriage gibs and shim it rather than use the 'grub screw' method better still are tapered gibs, but i haven't got round to that yet. the bed has been checked and milled to ensure it is square and a consistent depth, on some older machined the bed is bowed, any problems here and you will never achieve good results. the other gibs have been straightened and lapped, and again simple locks fitted. on a lathe this size you really do need to be able to lock each axis depending on the operaton you are conducting, it makes an imense difference to the rigidity and accuracy.

If you are going for a QCTP I wouldn't recommend the standard one, while it does the job it is not that rigid. there are lots of good tweaks Here I will take a couple of quick shots later. i have also picked up some nice micrometers off ebay for under a tenner, currently I am on the look out for a nice height gauge. A mill will be arriving at some point as it opens up much more possibilities, the only problem is that it all takes time away from actually building anything! but then as long as i am enjoying myself what does it matter?

Smokebox, good suggestion, i should have mentioned it, but I am only an amateur bodger!

 

Pugsley the saddle lock is not standard, but it is dead easy to do, I can take a pic if you like.

Yes please B) I'm an even more amateur bodger

I've found I've used my mill more than the lathe so far, but I'm sure it won't be that way for ever. The lathe is almost new, so shouldn't have the problem with a bowed bed, and was all quite accurate when I set about it with a dial gauge and test bar when I first got it. i should check it again really, as I've moved it since then.

Like you say, it doesn't really matter what you do as long as you're enjoying it!

How do you press the wheel centre casting into the tyre blank - is it as simple as just pressing in by hand, or do you mount it on a chuck, etc. and get the lathe to press it in?

How do you press the wheel centre casting into the tyre blank - is it as simple as just pressing in by hand, or do you mount it on a chuck, etc. and get the lathe to press it in?

if the fit is good it should just be a gentle push-fit into the recess. anything more and the wheel center could distort, the loctite is more than sufficient to retain the center.