"Something in the C+L instructions which I completely endorse - point building should be enjoyed."

​ Totally agree,Having just made two B6 turnouts for my new project I can honestly say I really enjoyed making them.

It's very satisfying to see stock running through your home brew track and points and saying to yourself "I did that"

Cheers!

Frank

It is also easier to cut a chair in half and add a cosmetic half-chair to complete the look.

To construct a 4mm turnout in this way using C+L components is considerably more expensive than a (glued) easitrac one ( £9,30+rail as against £4.50*+rail by my reckoning). However, you get more for your money in terms of material in 4mm.

I switched over to simple soldered turnouts for the advantage of strength and durability, so I can't say how strong easitrac abs sleepered points are once gued down. I do know that the couple I did make are almost impossible to adjust once down if anything shifts, whereas the soldered variety are relatively easy to tweak.

I find it is easier to get the 4mm points right from the off, as eveything is easy to see, and you can get a scalpel under a chair without breaking it if necessary.

Still I guess that's part of the challenge of working in a small scale. It does appear a lot easier to get things working well in 4mm. My wagon rolls smoothly through all 3 points I've made so far. One of them uses a C+L v-crossing assembly I picked up at AP show recently, though at £13,50 each, I won't be using another!

Regards,

Chris

*Providing you avoid the expensive milled bases of course, and you need to add a few pcb sleepers for strength.

I'd second Chris's comments re soldered versus C&L. I've got concerns about the long-term viability of solvent-based joints in any case. My preferred approach in 4mm is solder + cosmetic chairs - although that can be quite long-winded!

In 2mm I'm relatively happy with soldered joints alone - once painted-over you have to be close/a rivet-counter to notice the lack of chairs.

Nice pointwork Chris - I like the three-way.

Regs

Ian

The only point I'd make with pcb construction is to cut the insulation gap on *both* sides, against the rail flange. Not quite so noticeable as a centre cut - and a 'belt & braces' approach!

Regs

Ian

The only point I'd make with pcb construction is to cut the insulation gap on *both* sides, against the rail flange. Not quite so noticeable as a centre cut - and a 'belt & braces' approach!RegsIan

I just tend to fill the centre cut by rubbing over some filler, then once painted it is nigh on invisible. Also the fewer cuts as possible is my order of the day!

Also I'm hoping that the 4mm points will be servicable enough in the context I'm using them. The only thing I've needed to do is to add some cyano here and there to strengthen and prevent the rail from sliding through the chairs.

But, as they say, points taken... :blush thingy:

What I still have to get to grips with is a good method of tiebar construction.

For the modest shunting board I'm planning, I will stick with Cobalt motors ( I have 3 spare which is exactly enough). I just have to reconcile somehow using an 04 on a Norfolk single line ex GER working...

Anyone happen to know the weight/loading comparison between an 04 and a Claude Hamilton 4-4-0.......!

Those are great-looking points, Chris. Thanks for noting down the main steps, I look forward to getting to this point (sorry!) myself.

Mikkel - they are actually quite easy to produce if you haven't had a go, someone of your skills would find it very straightforward. I made the first by pinching some rail from a cut section of flexitrac and using the £9.30 point kit sleeper set.

The second used one of the pre formed V's - extravagant but worth trying.

The third as the first, but this time I ordered 10m of bullhead with the kit!

All three work like a dream!

Regards,

Chris