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Roxey Summers Iron Ore Hopper part 11 - brace plates and vacuum pipes.


halfwit

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The end brace plates are made up from 3 parts, two ribs and the main plate. A simple folding and soldering job, 179 cream to attach the ribs before tinning with 145 and using the RSU to attach the assembly to the wagon, complicated by having to mark out drill the holes for the vacuum pipe. I used a pair of dividers to transfer the hole position from the side ribs to the plate. A pic;

 

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The piece of black plasticard in the foreground is a little jig to ensure that the plates are not only attached at the correct angle but also that they both sit the same!

 

The vacuum pipe is not included in the kit, I studied the drawing in the Paul Harrison book and used .7mm brass wire, being carefull to note that the pipe run is different at each end. The pipe is made in 2 halves which will meet at a rib to disguise the join, at the moment they're cut overlength, to be trimmed before final fitting.

For the flexible part of the pipe I used the 'old school' technique of wrapping 5 amp fuse wire around the pipe and soldering the ends;

 

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A lot easier than I thought;

 

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Do people still use this method I wonder?

 

And one of the pipes temporarily in place;

 

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Now I've made up these pipes I can start thinking about making and fitting the end bracing struts and fitting the ladders.

 

Paul.

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Do people still use this method I wonder?

Given the way the rest of the pipe is exposed, it looks by far the most appropriate way of doing it. Probably easier than having to join the pipes.

 

I'm even more impressed, though, to see someone who obviously knows how to use a proper vernier caliper, rather than the new-fangled electronic type ;-)

 

Nick

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Given the way the rest of the pipe is exposed, it looks by far the most appropriate way of doing it.

 

The only way of doing it I reckon! I did spend a lot of time thinking about the best way to make the pipe.

 

I'm even more impressed, though, to see someone who obviously knows how to use a proper vernier caliper, rather than the new-fangled electronic type...

 

I can read a micrometer as well! I do have an electronic one, but its buried in the cupboard and I coudn't be bothered to dig it out.

 

Paul.

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I think this is coming on very well, as you say no other way of doing the vacuum pipes.

 

I don,t like the digital verniers, they are like calculators and give spurious results if the batteriesare on the way out. At least with the calculator you have some idea if the answer is correct. I messed up a whole batch of machining when working as a clockmaker because of a digital caliper.

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Thanks N.

 

Digital calipers don't like getting damp either! A good wipe and being left to dry for a few hours usually sorts them out.

 

Paul.

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Hi Paul, thanks for the close-up of the vacuum pipe method. I have seen it before but never actually tried it (using ready made ones done in the same way), but it looks doable enough.

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I was suprised by how easy it was to do Mikkel, and quite therapuetic as well. And it was somehow satisfying to use what would now probably be considered an outdated method.

 

The photos are actually quite cruel, the pipes look much better 'in the flesh' and will be further improved with a coat of paint.

 

Paul.

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Good Afternoon Paul, the wagon looks amazing ruddy good job SIR! I love those end plates and the neatness of all the side strengtheners two, a very good looking etched kit.

 

The way you've done the vac piping is the same technique i've used on my resin ones and think they look best doing it this way, the 5 amp wire giving it that perfect ribbed look which is a huge feature on any vac braked wagons.

 

Seems a shame to undercoat and paint the hopper now as brass built loco's and wagons do have that display appeal to them this one been no different i've sat and admired your closeup pics for a while now and thought wow if only i could make something this good and neat!

 

Keep up the good work and I can't wait for the next update on this beauty:)

 

Many Thanks

 

Rich

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Thanks. The side strengtheners weren't that difficult really, even though they look tricky to set straight. Etched brass is definetely the best material for this type of wagon I think.

 

The way you've done the vac piping is the same technique i've used on my resin ones and think they look best doing it this way, the 5 amp wire giving it that perfect ribbed look which is a huge feature on any vac braked wagons.

 

I'm glad that I'm not the only one who does that then!

 

Paul.

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vac brakes on a summers wagon?

 

Remember that some Summers wagons finished their lives with ICI and were fitted with vacuum brakes taken from scrapped ICI hoppers. This one will be finished as an ICI wagon in 1990's condition, luckily the kit comes with the correct roller bearing bogies as roller bearings were fitted to these wagons later in their lives.

 

Paul.

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