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Fitting DGs

Bryn

Entry posted by Bryn

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After readings David's excellent article on Easitrack step by step, I was inspired to do the same for fitting DG couplings. So here goes;

 

  • Constructing the DG

I'm not going to go into detail here, as the instructions are very good. I would highly recommend that you chemically blacken them now (while they are still on the fret), I used Carrs blackening fluid for this and just leave the etch in a shallow bath until they are a nice dark brown colour. I find dark brown blends in better than solid black with the finished weathered rolling stock. I also use a soft iron florist's wire instead of the tough stuff provided.

 

  • Prepare the Model

blogentry-2184-1263843237711.jpg

 

First remove the coupling/NEM pockets from the underside of your chosen piece of rolling stock (The shim has already been fitted to the above wagon).

 

  • Measure the Shim Required

blogentry-2184-12638432302362.jpg

 

For this I have made a simple height gauge, the top of the screw head being 5.5mm above the rail head. I normally place the wagon over this screw and slide in various combinations of plasticard shim to work out what is required. Then the correct amount of shim can be fixed to the under side of the wagon (as per the first image), MEK is usually used for this.

 

  • Fixing the Coupling

blogentry-2184-12638432230537.jpg

 

To fix the DG to the shim I use a quick setting Epoxy glue. Holes are drilled through the brass mounting plate and the shims keyed to give a surface for the glue to get it's teeth into.

 

  • Final Gauging

blogentry-2184-12638432044764.jpg

 

Once the glue has set, I check the correct height of the buffer plate using my home made gauge.

 

blogentry-2184-12638432152742.jpg

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7 Comments

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-missy-

Hi Bryn smile.gif

 

Good little post there. Those jigs are fantastic, I think I will have to make something like that myself.

 

Thank you.

 

Messy smile.gif

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Bryn

Thank you guys.

 

It's a pretty dull subject, but never really covered in any detail. But if you've never fitted a pair, I guess it's of help.

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bcnPete
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Having made a few but not fitted them yet it certainly is helpful Bryn.

 

Another nicely detailed post - thanks for sharing this.

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2mm Dabbler
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Good job Bryn.

 

I've made jigs for the same purpose years ago but used thick styrene (broken ruler), the result reminiscent of the Kadee/Microtrains coupler gauge. Very useful tools, indeed essential, regardless of appearance or construction.

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Kylestrome
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Bryn,

 

I like your jigs. I'm going to have to be very un-original and copy them!

 

Cheers,

David

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Trevor H

Thanks Bryn,

 

I know someone who will find that very usefulwink.gif , nice breakdown.

 

It probably says in the instructions, but is their a set distance on how far the coupling should stick out from the wagon, I see on yours the the buffing plate is a slightly proud of the buffers. I suppose it also depends on how tight a radius you have on the layout, on how close a coupling you can get away with.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

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Bryn
It probably says in the instructions, but is their a set distance on how far the coupling should stick out from the wagon, I see on yours the the buffing plate is a slightly proud of the buffers. I suppose it also depends on how tight a radius you have on the layout, on how close a coupling you can get away with.

 

When I used them in N gauge originally, placing the buffer plate 1mm infront of the wagon buffers would get most things around a 9" radius curse. For 2FS you are right in saying it depends on your layout, also remember bogie induced over hang can also be an issue. It's all a matter of adjusting them to suit the application. Also bogie or body mounting?

 

For those making a copy of the turned brass height gauge, it was 12mm across the diameter and not from the milled face. It won't hurt, it'll just have more over hang rolleyes.gif

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