Spent some time this weekend sorting out and unpacking in the man cave.
So around the room from left to right we have the workbench and storage
Clear area for setting up layout boards for work with layout storage behind
Finally tool storage and bookshelves
Again, ahead of the Mansfield Show I've finished off the T34 that I built last year. The buffers were oil finished and fitted according to the instructions and two JLTRT screw-link couplings were put together and chemically blackened.
So here we have the first coach for Fourgig ready for the show.
It will have to run with a green Lima MKI for Mansfield, it's matching all third will be done in time for RMweb Live! in September ......
I have another 8F to do a sound fitting so I thought i'd show how I fit the excellent ABS-230 speaker in the tender
First remove the weight and prise off the plastic supports. using a razor saw cut down the rear weight fixing pillar flush. Drill some holes in front and behind the centre wheels. Cement in two small fillets of 1mm plastikard to seal the bottom of what will be the output chamber for the speaker - a couple of nicks in the corners will allow the pickup wires to pass through.
What can I say apart from URG!
The owner is well known for his love of spray oil having quite an extensive collection of Hornby Dublo. I am trying to wean him off it for the sake of his modern locos and their plastic parts .....
A full strip is in order methinks
FInally got the tender pickups done. Used a whole length of EE's 0.35mm phosphor bronze wire to give me these fancy springy coiled backscratchers
They are soldered to two bus bars made from double sided copper clad PCB material (thanks JZ for the offcuts with your sleeper panels!) These were low melt soldered to the chassis frame on the underside then the pickup springs soldered to the top.
Took a lot of fiddling and repositioning to get them right, you can't see it but the en
Well, after a false start when it all went together crooked I dumped it in boiling water and started again. This time I ignored the instructions and built the body box up first using my nice magnetic corner jigs then fixed the soleplates/W irons on after.
I'm just waiting for some more parts from ABS, mainly the side door bottom planks to make the sackbarrow bottoms and then it's time to start painting.
Thanks to Adrian at ABS for his help and all the guidance and advice offered on
The Dart Castings crew turned up this morning, handy that, as last night I finished the weathering. Here's a snap taken in my new 30 quid photo booth with my trusty X-10 Mini cameraphone
Just got to paint the crew and stick em in and it's done. Now for that article for MR .........
OK, a couple of hours with the low melt solder has seen the Duke back in one (heavy) lump. I soldered the boiler assembly to the footplate in the end and have filled the gaps around the cab etc with solder. The Crownline detailing kit has been raided for the blower and tunnel as well as the top feeds and pipework.
Just got the pipework around the cab/firebox are to sort now. Will use one of the Crownline castings to represent the blower valve and make the rest up from copper wire. The i
The signals on Fourgig East are driven by MERG servo driver boards that for now are set-up using a laptop and the appropriate software. However lugging an ancient laptop (it still has a 3.5" floppy drive!) around just in case I need to adjust a signal was bugging me so I spent some Christmas money on a MERG kit 76A Servoset II.
SWMBO also arranged for Santa to bring me a nice new shiny drill press (pillar drill to the masses) so the two were brought together last night for a pleasant hour wi
So here it is again, I've just painted the motor and it blends in pretty well. I still might make some fill panels sometime if the small amount of daylight visible bugs me too much ....
Here's the underside showing the "gearbox"
I've also refreshed the couplings, a few have commented in the past that the 3 links were out of scale so I had a few links left over from the Ivor build which have been put to good use
I did a test run yesterday of just the chassis on a bit of
After a few productive minutes with some plasticard and copper wire over lunchtime we have a representation of the sandboxes for the Crosti
Next step is to paint it all black and then I can get the Zimo sound chip wired up to the loco and test the fit in the body and of course the sound!
I should have this at least functional for the Weston-on-Trent show on the 10th November
After some more surgery with the razor saw (not a lot left of the original tanks now!)and some internal supports cemented in which were cut from sections of the Dapol floor, the body and chassis are finally joined to my satisfaction
The body is held in place really well with the "handrail" clip but I will re-use the nose end screws as a bit of belt and braces.
So, a bit of filling, fitting of the roof horns and the bodyside grilles and it's ready for a coat of primer.
As promised, the GWR coach brown was applied by my trusty 6 quid airbrush - which is now stripped down and it's vital parts soaking in thinners
That's all for a few days whilst the paint hardens, next step will be to flood the cream into the panels
Made some more progress with this coach this week. Underframe has been painted and the final details added. I still need to hand paint the brake pull rods black but it's about done.
I've also made a start on the body, going pretty well, all is square and fitting together quite easily
Should have painted those seats before gluing them in though ...... Oh well, I'll know better with the all 3rd S9, more seats in that one too
So once those seats are painted and maybe some sig
Rapid (for me) progress today.
The bends went really well, after much agonizing and worry over getting these right they just fell into place using a 3.5mm rod held in the vice and the brass bent over it using my fingers.
Soldered to the soleplate using 145 deg solder it's starting to look like a Sentinel now
Now, here's where I have had to "modify" the kit as there seems to be two variants of the Lima 0-4-0 drive unit, one a central ringfield and another with the ringfield over
Quick update from yesterday's progress:
Bogies have met the razor saw and the front section that carries the coupling have been removed. A strip of plastikard replicating the rib at the other end for strength.
Pickups next and a 10mm hole for access to the new roof fixings in the undriven one.
I've also cemented in small sections to the body sides where the switches used to be and cleaned, lubed and test run the original power bogie - noisy by modern standards but at the sp
It was far too flippin' hot to work in the loft/workshop/man cave today, so this evening I decamped to the patio to get the last three footboards folded up for the Slater's coach
And jolly successful it was too, all folded up, but I ran out of light before the axlebox cut-aways were filed in the final lower board. A job for tomrrow
Way back in the mists of time (2007) I built my first BR Standard "neverwazza" the 8F 2-8-0 that was in the 1956 build programme but never made it into metal
It has run successfully on Summat Colliery ever since and always provokes a reaction when folks clock the number and count the wheels etc. However, it's tender drive makes it tricky to add sound to and as the only remaining tender drive loco in the operating
Even though it was originally green when I bought it, the Pug is now resplendent in it's BR black livery
Bit of touching up needed around the red buffer beams and the cab interior. Whistle needs to be "brass" and then it's ready for varnish. Must get on with the DCC decoder/StayAlive ready for the Mansfield Show next month
Unlike the last Golden Arrow Crosti 9F that I built and detailed in Hornby Magazine this one's mine (and so is my time) so the standard plain flat sided preheater sections would not do.
Out came the 11mm Evergreen tube, saw and files. Together with some microstrip and a few other bits and bobs I now have this:
I've added a representation of the access door using a circle of plasticard punched out with a hole punch, decorated with microstrip and the "blower" that of course is no
One thing I have been doing over the summer is making #2 son's first layout. Quite refreshing bunging down set track!
It started as a 1st and 2nd rad loop set across the corners of two 2x4 boards using my now familiar dowels and toggle clamps. Power transferred from one board to another via the clamps.
Santa is bringing him a centre board with turntable and engine shed
So he can still have the simple 2 boards for a quick play or all three on a weekend (and Dad has a te
So, the rebuild of the DJH Duke of Gloucester is moving forward slowly. It has emerged from the paint shop with it's BR Green (late) paint airbrushed over the base satin black.
Green is Phoenix Precision P101 thinned to approx 50% with cellulose thinners. Three light coats over two days and now it's resting until next week in a drawer.
Some areas of black to touch up where masking failed or was impractical to do. Once the detail painting is done then I'll move on to the lining
The target for the weekend was to get the chassis painted and that was achieved, eventually ......
here's the chassis all cleaned and prepped for primer
So, Sunday morning after the storms the sun came out and so did the paint - far too early as it was way too humid still and the primer went on like talcum powder. After an hour in Superstrip and another good go with the Cillit Bang! I was back to stage one ...
Fortunately mid afternoon a breeze was evident and the pool of water
Well, I've finally managed to get Pete Harvey's excellent etches soldered together and fitted to the Sentinel, and mighty fine they look too!
Just need to do some final fettling with a glass fibre pencil and then it's primer time. Should have it in satin black for the Member's Day.
After another couple of sessions we have a rolling chassis (well it would roll if I free off the bearings - a job for when they are removed for chassis painting)
I'm deviating from the order of things now as I will be making as start on the springs, axleboxes and footboards next. Save the delicate underpinnings until all the heaver engineering is done
The job is much easier with the brake third handy as a reference