progressing nicely with this build but thought a quick update would be in order to show you all the blastpipe/steam pipe casting that fits under the side exhaust pipe. here's a before photo just after cutting it from the sprue
and here's another after 15 mins carving with a sharp knife with a good photo of the real thing to compare with
Probably the part that needed the most work, maybe would be better in whitemetal. Note a small amount of filler where there were air bubbles.
For those of you who can't make it, and those of you who can, here's what will be making a guest appearance on Summat Colliery
I've got some more fiddling to do with the chassis and more weight to get in around the firebox/ashpan area but in appearance this is what you'll be getting on Sunday
CVs have been tweaked so we now have approx 4 chuffs per rev not 8 and the front smokebox shovelling plate fitted. We'll see what tonight brings .......
Quick photo of the 2-8-2 before fitting of the brakes and rigging.
Tender needs coal and a coupling, but that's about it really.
Went a bit mad with the Brit detailing pack I got off eBay, fitted the screw link coupling and backing plate (if that's the word?) plus the steam heat pipe as well as the cylinder drains that I bought it for. The rest will go to the Duke of Gloucester that is to come B)
Wonder if it still works?
Couldn't resist taking this pic of the
Over the last few days I have been putting together this for my "Missing" Standard 8F:
Basically the chinese built 5 pole tender drive was incompatible with Peco code 75 turnouts, the 3 way especially. I tried removing the centre wobbly wheels and set the b2bs to 14.4mm (which then needed the wheels shimming to maintain gear mesh!) but then I looked at the way the Crosti 9F just ran at shows without fuss and I remembered the old drive that originally came with the 9F.
On a roll today, got busy with some copper wire (reclaimed from some figure of eight "bell wire") and started the pipework on the left firebox side.
For those not familiar with the Crosti variant the two pipes running to the footplate from the valve on the side of the firebox run down to the "blower" that is mounted on the preheater boiler below the footplate.
Must find some thick wire to do the reverser shaft ......
This is getting a little silly, now the union link is too short, even though I've made the connecting rod 1mm longer than the drawing
The combination lever looks a little short too, but I think I can live with this.
No way round it, I've got to fabricate two new union links from scratch to the correct length. Not sure if the 2-8-2 link should be longer than a 9F item, but whatever, mine does. I'll tack solder two bits of scrap etch together and make both at the same time then thi
I'm still doing prep work and planning with this build. Chris' instructions suggest you start with the chassis so I've stripped the brit chassis down to it's drive wheels and coupling rods. Here's a quick snap of the first trial fit of the body on the chassis - it fits!
As I'm not using the recommended chassis there will be a few deviations from the instructions. I will not be using the resin front motion support bracket (part 3) as the cast lubricator supports will do nicely. The Hornb
well, for now at least.
All the main components are in place and plumbed up
Handrails and the regulator linkages next then it's probably deflectors.
The chassis needs revisiting as the lubricator supports are still missing and I'd like to add the sandbox filler tubes and possible a sandbox or two between the frames - all fixed to the boiler lower. I've plenty of exhaust steam pipe left to add a representation of it emerging from between the frames up to the running plate
I've had a few requests to see the 2-8-2 in unlined "as built" black, so in homage to Hornby's latest Britannia offering here's 91000 before lining out and naming
Keen eyes will observe the digitally removed cylinder lining and the fact that the return crank is not actually soldered to the crankpin
It's been a while, as pointed out by Pete Harvey. Well, I've been busy exhibiting and building by Powercab PCP panel/rolling road setup, but I have managed to get the RHS lined up
keen eyes will notice that I have brushed some pre-thinned PP satin varnish over the running plate lining to beef it up ready for me to tackle the other side ........
Well, work on the Duke will be suspended as I've run out of bits!
The ex-JE etched deflectors will be posted out next week, so I'm told. Chris at Golden Arrow is chasing his supplier for the missing buffers - he already has the cylinder drains.
So I thought a few pics of the current state of play might be a good idea.
I still havn't sorted out the cab details yet, although I have found a pair of Hornby crew that will do fine. Big question is how to fabricate the
Well, I got the bits from Adrian at ABS so the angled planks at the bottom of the doors and label clips were added and then the painting commenced.
Below shows the wagon as it sits now, basic spraying done but there is a lot of overspray on the black where I couldn't mask well enough. No matter, I'll touch up with Tamiya semi gloss black and no-one will know.
It's done in BR period livery, and just needs black number patches adding once the overspray is sorted, oh and a touch of whi
Well, the frame jig spacers are being made so while I wait for them I've been playing with some other bits and bobs
I've built up the Comet GB5 and fitted it to the Sagami motor I bought from the Captain ages ago. After an extensive running in session it's running nice and smooth. Lovely dinky little gearbox and only 8mm wide, which is good for this project!
Only problem is the motor is not so narrow and will foul the frames. I need to add a DE38 drive extender, so more money for Ge
As I mentioned in the comments of the last entry the cylinders got soldered up the other night. Well now they are fitted to the chassis
I had to add a small amount of packing to the front edge to get the correct angle for them. The original chassis design was based on a Comet Britannia front end so the angle was not quite right. A single strip of scrap etch from the cylinders kit was perfect.
Here's a shot of the loco with the body on
Note the cylinders are slightly too far
I received the plates for the Duke of Gloucester Saturday morning, Narrow planet have done a fantastic job, etching using thinner brass than for the 2-8-2 which has allowed a much better detail for the works plates etc.
Here's the nameplates fitted
I'm still trying to get the rest painted with white raised text etc, might not work due to the thinness of the etching, but I'll give it my best shot.
My large tin of pre-thinned PV72 satin varnish went off, maybe in the cold of the o
Quick photo following fitting of handrails and a quick coat of Carplan grey primer, looks quite nice
note top of drive unit poking through the hole in the coal space. The shell is not quite sitting down as well as it should, need to take a wee bit more off the top of the tender weight then it will be fine.
Will start fettling the loco body over the weekend, first issue is that the casting has the blower duct/tunnel on the left hand side of the boiler that was only fitted to the re
Grey primer that is - it's a lovely sunny day really
Various chassis parts have been stripped down and given a coat of Hycote grey primer ready for some satin black
The loco and tender bodies have also been treated to a coat or two, but are hardening off in a darkened room
Whohoo! apart from shed and numberplates it's about done. Still need to add coal, take a little off the tender weight to get the body to sit right down and the power wires betwixt loco and tender need re-soldering but basically it's ready for weathering
The loco will have an extensive photoshoot before hand-over to it's owner, I'll post some here
I've set the tender aside for now, fall plate might need adjusting once connected to the loco, but that is to come ...
Bodyshell was fettled and filed, this took much longer than the tender, but then it is a much more complicated casting. It cleans up really easily and what initially looks like a bit of a dogs breakfast very quickly looks the business.
The blower and duct/tunnel cover was scraped off with my trusty Swann Morton #10 and smoothed off. The cab backhead etc was epoxied in pl
Well, the Duke is ready for lining. All the detail painting is done including some picked out pipework and the cab has a few touches of paint around steam pipes and the gauges are picked out in white with black pointers.
Tender is also ready, so there's really no excuse not to get the pressfix out is there?
Some of you may have seen my questions in the main forum about rear tender footsteps on this loco. Well, a couple of evening's fiddling with 3mm brass strip and a soldering iron has given me a fair representation of said steps.
Don't worry about the roughened area around the base of the step, it's where I've glassfibred away some cyano overspill
So all that's left to do is fabricate the tool tunnel and maybe open up the corresponding hole in the tender front bulkhead. Not sure ab
Thanks to Dave Holt for pointing out a glaring error that resulted in a massive gap between the rear driver and the firebox/ashpan. Turns out that I made a last minute change to the frame drawing when I compared the tracing with that of a Comet Britannia chassis. This threw the whole chassis forwards by approx 2mm (6" in the real world), but meant that the cylinders were at least in the correct place on the chassis.
So last night I unsoldered the rear mounting from the frames and repositione
Handrails and regulator linkage today to be specific. First time I've used Gibson handrail knobs, fiddly to thread on the 0.45mm wire but very nice on the loco
Here's a shot of the loco's face that has not been seen before, showing not only today's work but the vaccuum ejector (blower) too
Which has just reminded me that lamp irons need sorting ......