Marsh Lane Sidings

There is another option, use Finetrax flexiable track and then use easytrack components to make points that match.

 

Lisa

Ultimately, it's your train set, and it has to satisfy you. Are you sure that a pure economic argument is sufficient? Two/three years from now will you still feel the same?

 

I have looked with interest at the new track, but there is more than just track at stake.

There is another option, use Finetrax flexiable track and then use easytrack components to make points that match.

 

Lisa

Indeed you can Lisa. You can also make the points using the usual copper cladding. Both options are certainly cheaper than using the Finetrax points kits that are also available.

 

Regards,

 

Rob.

2FS all the way! I feel realistic track can make a difference to the overall appearance of the layout. Finetraxx does look good but IMHO 2FS track has the edge over it.

Ultimately, it's your train set, and it has to satisfy you. Are you sure that a pure economic argument is sufficient? Two/three years from now will you still feel the same?

 

I have looked with interest at the new track, but there is more than just track at stake.

Thanks for the consideration Tim.

 

The decision wasn't an easy one to make. The advent of Finetrax has helped me in that decision, as this is similar to the 2mm Scale Easytrack.. The problems I find with N gauge are the wheels and track. The wheels are now considered acceptable whilst the track is not. I'm going to annoy the diehard 2mm modellers by saying I see 2mm track as finescale N gauge, as all my ready to run and kits are N gauge. Therefore the argument is not just economic.

 

All I am doing is changing the track. The rest of the scenery would be if I'm modelling in 2mm scale.

 

Regards,

 

Rob.

Hi,

 

Loco conversions can be done for around 1/3 of the price per axle.  I am a member of the 2mm Association and there is a member who offers a wheel turning service for a small fee per axle.  He machines the RTR N gauge wheel sets as close to 2mm standards as he can and re-gauges them so you can just pop them straight back in the loco.  I've already converted a few diesels this way and had no problems so far.

 

You may be able to convert the class 08 without the society chassis etch.  I converted a Farish 04 a few years ago simply by dropping the original wheels back into the chassis after I had them machined down.  A little bit of tinkering was required to get it to run without any 'jumps' but it runs perfectly now even on speed step 1 on DCC.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

If all you want is better looking track, then sticking with N wheels and track standards and using Finetrax would seem to be the way to go, especially considering the savings made on time and cost converting stock to 2FS standards.

 

However, if you want better and smoother running through pointwork, not stock jumping and bumping it's way through, which has been my experience and to my mind the biggest downfall of N gauge, then you do need to consider at least, whether the 2FS track standards would suit/satisfy you better in the longer term.

 

Since the overall cost of the trackwork would I guess be roughly the same, Easitrac v Finetrax, and the time and effort involved in making it also comparable, perhaps you could consider making a couple of short test tracks each with a point, to both standards, invest in a few 2FS wheelsets for a couple of wagons and compare how they run through 2FS points compared to how they run through N points.

 

Izzy

Its a big decision and I'm keen to learn what you decide on this subject. I have considered the 2mm FS route myself but with 50 plus loco's and steam to boot it think the cost would be prohibitive for me. I even considered going DCC but the same economic argument still hit me

 

Who said modelling was easy?

Just go with what you are comfortable in doing. I dont understand why some people constrain their modelling to cost / time / skill etc sometimes, there shouldnt be any constraints. Its a hobby after all and therefore you should enjoy doing it regardless and if you enjoy it then you will find a way of doing it. There are 3 points I would like to make though...

 

1. Finetrax has a very limited range right now and I cannot see it expanding much in the near future. Its alright if you stay inside that range but if you need to go outside it, it will then get very complicated.

2. ATM it costs

Having been through the same basic decision process 3 or 4 years ago - before Easitrac or Finetrax appeared, I can sympathize.

 

My ambitions were a bit larger - a dozen or more points with about 7 or 8 locos and stock to match (primarily passenger rated).

Peco track is fine if you are modelling modern European practice - but for anything purporting to be a British secondary line ... yeuk!!!

 

The die was cast then - hand laid track on copper-clad sleepers. 2mm Assoc code 40 rail and sleepers - but which gauge?

 

The deciding factor for me was time. With a maximum of one day per week available for modelling - after retirement (measured in minutes before then) the 2mm scale route just wasn't viable if I ever wanted to run a train. After two years of retirement I have all but completed tracklaying on the visible section (Peco will do in the fiddle yard) and have a lot of locos (who said about 7 or 8 - there's at least 20 in the cupboard!) and stock to sort out some half-decent couplings and add a bit of weathering, etc.

 

Were I a victim of diseaselisation, I might have gone the 2mm route as my trials suggested that these would be a lot easier to convert than steam locos with outside motion, some of which I can hardly see ...

 

The extra bonus of hand laid track (along with the flowing curves through pointwork, etc) is the fact that I have actually been able to tighten up the check gauges etc so that it looks even less like N gauge and much closer to 2mm FS  (till you look at the wheels standing on it!). The best of both worlds!

 

Just illustrating different ways of looking at things and different solutions - everyone has to make their own.

 

Brian

You have to know yourself to make these descisions. For me it is the look of trackwork especially the flangeways. However I enjoy making track so the prospect is not daunting. Regarding converting your stock. If you have most of the stock you want then the cost of conversion is manageable spread out over the time it will take. If you are still buying more the cost will increase. But if you intend to move  to kit or scratch building the cost is no more.

Maybe easitrac with hand built turnouts on PCB might be a good option if you would like to build your own track.

Don

Thank you for all the comments.

 

Having read them all and considered the advice being offered, I am going to to go the Finetrax route. I will be able to get the layout built and running, but if I'm not happy with the appearance/running of the stock, I can sell the layout as it is then build another using 2mm as the standard. After all, it is ones conscience that is the deciding factor in these situations.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

I suppose you do realise that N gauge stock (at least the recent stuff)will run fine on Easitrac plain track as well as Finetrax. Its the points where you have to decide on whicvh standrds to use.

 

Chris

I am looking at the Finetrax option at the moment as well, and sympathise with your quandary, Rob.

 

In the thread about Finetrax some time ago, I raised the question of whether the gaps at the crossovers were as wide as in Peco Code 55, and was told that this appearance was an optical illusion. Will modern N gauge wheels actually drop on a Finetrax point, as seems to be implied above? If not, there is no advantage to 2mm FS in this respect, and the main advantage of 2mm scale is the slightly finer flangeways. Am I right about that?

 

To me the issue with 2mm FS is that if you convert commercial N models, as opposed to building your own stock to 2mm scale, the wheels will still not be the correct scale gauge for the model, unlike with P4 conversions. Plus the cost of the replacement wheelsets, as you say Rob, is a major consideration.

 

One extra cost with Finetrax I was wondering about is if you have wagons with Peco plastic wheels. These may have to be replaced by finer flanged metal wheels to get good running, I think, especially the older solid, non-spoked wheels, which seem to have bigger flanges than the spoked ones.

 

Douglas

I suppose you do realise that N gauge stock (at least the recent stuff)will run fine on Easitrac plain track as well as Finetrax. Its the points where you have to decide on whicvh standrds to use.

 

Chris

Thanks Chris

 

I intend to use the Finetrax points, so a back-to-back of 7.4mm is needed.

 

Regards,

 

Rob.

I am looking at the Finetrax option at the moment as well, and sympathise with your quandary, Rob.

 

In the thread about Finetrax some time ago, I raised the question of whether the gaps at the crossovers were as wide as in Peco Code 55, and was told that this appearance was an optical illusion. Will modern N gauge wheels actually drop on a Finetrax point, as seems to be implied above? If not, there is no advantage to 2mm FS in this respect, and the main advantage of 2mm scale is the slightly finer flangeways. Am I right about that?

 

To me the issue with 2mm FS is that if you convert commercial N models, as opposed to building your own stock to 2mm scale, the wheels will still not be the correct scale gauge for the model, unlike with P4 conversions. Plus the cost of the replacement wheelsets, as you say Rob, is a major consideration.

 

One extra cost with Finetrax I was wondering about is if you have wagons with Peco plastic wheels. These may have to be replaced by finer flanged metal wheels to get good running, I think, especially the older solid, non-spoked wheels, which seem to have bigger flanges than the spoked ones.

 

Douglas

Hi Douglas

 

The PECO wheels will ride OK on 40 thou track, as I have just been testing a chassis on some copperclad 2mm track. Therefore they will not drop in the points as per code 80 track with modern wheels. Yes, you are right - the only difference will be the finer flangeways.

 

The only problem with Finetrax is, according to their website, the back-to-back needs to be 7.4mm as opposed to what seems to be the standard of just over 7mm. I intend to replace all my old Farish stock (PCA vee-tanks, VAA/OAA wagons) with the new NM25 spec wheels from Farish, as per their current stock. The plastic wheels are fixed and cannot be widened to this new standard.

 

Regards,

 

Rob.

If you are going to build your own track why not use a hybrid approach. Use 2mm Easitrak or Finetrax plain track and build the points using Easitrak components. Squeeze the gauge to 8.9(ish) mm in the point work and use 0.8mm flangeways. Best of both worlds IMHO. Better looking and smooth running with no dropping in the frog and no need to rewheel anything other than ancient pizza cutter wheels or adjust back to backs.

Hi eldavo,

 

The nice thing about Easitrak and Finetrax is the ability to mix and match. You could use either for points or plain track, whichever is your preference.

 

Regards,

 

Rob

I'm now at this cross road too.

 

I model P4 and 00 but also want to do some 2mmFS or N but have the same kind of issues.

 

I miss plug n play RTR so want to go N but am not a fan of the track!   If I was to go full 2mmFS then I would have to change the wheels and in a lot of cases the valve gear.  I could probably change the valve gear on standard N loco's if it bothered me that much (it does in a lot of cases, maybe etched replacements) but I just want to do RTR really that looks good enough.  Peco code 55 to my eye is not nice.

 

Finetrax looks good to me and so does Easitrak.

 

My worry if I use Finetrax is I heard production has stopped?   I only need standard points for the most part so can build the odd slip if needed but don't fancy building the lot.  Finetrax are kits but getting them completed is quicker.  But are they stable to order off or not?    I don't want to start a layout then find I can't get any more units as I have a 17.5 x 11' space for a small empire life long jobby.

 

I'm thinking of using Easitrak for the straights and curves then taper the ends in the 0.42mm needed to fit other types of turnouts.

 

Or I could build N gauge turnouts with Easitrak bits but again I'm really wanting to use Finetrax if it is viable.

 

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

I read all the above entries.

I see after all this time no one wants to answer me.

 

Can only hope.

 

Also since measuring all the back to backs on the small bit of N stock I recently purchased it seems they are all 7mm.

 

I'm not sure how to safely adjust the btb's of N stock and neither can I be arsed. Part of me wanting to try N was to get back the pleasure and easy going nature of buying RTR and running it with from the box, I luxury I have lost with P4 modelling.

 

Looks like I may be using components and hand building some track then.

 

Can anyone help with decisions and previous questions?