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Bachmann VAA (Maroon) 200119. Step 3 - Capillary Work.

Mick Bonwick


Out with the rigger brush, white spirit and Dark Wash. As previously described (if you've been following closely) the thinned wash is applied via a rigger brush to panel edges, corners and other detail to highlight it and create dirty shadows. Wherever dirt would build up on the real vehicle it can be replicated by adding a small amount of thinned wash, remembering that it will dry lighter by a couple of shades than it appears when first applied.



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Hi Mick


What type of white spirit are you using as I have found many will damage the previously applied washes and that you need something that's not 'hot' eg one of the odourless synthetic types, or I may of course not be letting things dry properly due to impatience!




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Hi Mike,


I use the cheapest that I can find when I need to buy some more.Currently half way through some B&Q best. A wash is a very thin concoction, with a high proportion of carrier to pigment, and will take a long time to dry thoroughly. I don't very often use more than one wash on one area of a model, so the problem you relate doesn't occur. When I do want to use more than one wash in an area I will leave the first one to dry for 48hrs and then apply a coat of Testor's Dullcote. I leave that for a further 24hrs and then move on to the next wash colour.


I keep meaning to try one of the odourless products but have not yet got round to it.

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