Jump to content
 

Model railway figures


JRamsden

1,255 views

WARNING! Snob opinions incoming... I've lost count of the amount of images I have seen of stunning model railways which are marred by less than convincing model people. Every modeller has their own areas of interest; some enjoy scratch building, some prioritise complex electronic systems and some just want to get down to running trains, all pretence of "finishing" their layout out the window. This is fantastic because this kind of diversity in approach is what makes any hobby interesting. But I do find it odd that so many of us spend painstaking hours recreating certain details, only to abandon certain others. In this case, the people that populate our tiny worlds.

 

Just twenty odd years ago you would have had very few options when it came to figures of real people. Before things like 3D printing were so prevalent we had to rely on crude plastic mouldings or white metal castings, all of which seemed to produce only the most vague suggestion of an actual person. But now, with the growing popularity and access to the aforementioned 3D printing, we have a greater selection of possibilities. I dragged out a few figures I had lying around for the sake of comparison:

 

IMG_0247.jpg.9a0672df5d550643a32d6987e2031af4.jpg

 

Above, from left to right, is: a Peco figure, a white metal casting from Langley Models and a chap from a bulk bag bought from eBay. The Peco figure is about as flat as you get before you'd have to consider it 2D and the bulk bag man is actually HO scale, making him smaller than the rest, the moulding itself isn't all that bad otherwise. In this instance, the white metal casting is actually passable; perhaps the baggy clothes and facial hair help to disguise an otherwise lumpy shape. That bizarre hole in the front would need some filling first though! Plus he has a handy peg for planting the figure on the layout.

 

IMG_0246.jpg.3176c909ea9096c70fb53abf05367bce.jpg

 

The two figures above are from Bachmann's own range. In general, this range features possibly the most passable figures I have seen, particularly the station staff set (left) meaning I would happily plant these as they come. This comes down to the fact that I doubt I could apply paint much better myself. The cleaning man on the right is notably more dubious and I might be inclined to keep him somewhere out of the way!

 

Then I discovered ModelU figures. These are made from 3D scans of real people. As a result the proportions, pose and detail are much more realistic than the previous examples. Plus the company can easily manufacture in any scale by simply increasing the scale at which they are printed, the master scan providing all detail required for the jump in size. I have been buying these figures over time and decided it was finally time to start painting them up. Below is an account of my experimentations.

 

As with any painting project, I tend to start with a coat of primer, usually grey or white Halfords primer. I did take photos of this stage but sadly they were lost during the gap between taking and writing. I'm sure you can imagine what a primed plastic figure looks like! I tend to prefer white primer for figures. Then I apply layers of paint to add detail. I prefer acrylic paints and usually rely on my stash of Humbrol paints, although I'm aware there are probably better options these days. I start by painting the harder to reach areas and end on smaller details, sometimes using a cocktail stick for fine detail like ties or buttons. Often I find that most areas painted will require touching up later anyway because I'm just too clumsy and can't hold a paintbrush straight!

 

Below are my two test samples. The left image shows the figure with just paint. The right image shows what they look like after a wash of highly dilute dirty grey/black paint. The exact mix is always different and the results vary greatly. I always aim for the wash to appear translucent when applied to a piece of plastic; you don't want the pigments to be too overpowering as to just cover the colours already applied. The idea is that the wash seeps into the crevices of the figure, adding depth and further colour. I think the images below show how effective this can be:

 

IMG_0205.jpg.e364072c6d41d5841ac88b381521e7f2.jpg

IMG_0206.jpg.9ec658a3c09e7787b3346c0a453d3cbf.jpg

 

See on the first figure how the trousers now have definite shadow lines? The face of the bottom figure even has a suggestion of a nose and mouth; entirely random and unexpected but it gives at-a-glance details that you just wouldn't be able to replicate on purpose.

 

Then I aim to dry brush a very light grey over the top. This highlights the surface areas and (I hope) acts as a nice contrast to the darker areas. It is easy to overdo this, as you will see!

 

IMG_0209.jpg.b0163ab29651fe5619070951d2a6beef.jpg

 

Fired up with new-found confidence, I started work on the remaining figures. I'll put a selection below and you can judge for yourself whether this method is effective on the whole or not. I will also say that the close-up camera reveals details and colours otherwise unseen by the naked eye; it has not been too kind to my work which looks passable at a distance!

 

IMG_0251.jpg.f92d5104553425a6b63ed8fa6cb08c07.jpg

IMG_0250.jpg.604cbb4f92cf5922551fb09b9a9ddc7f.jpg

IMG_0253.jpg.93e7d544a9f0316662b019e7122ab35e.jpg

IMG_0249.jpg.190f37c6f59a4bcbe3c8d769a7d13fa5.jpg

IMG_0252.jpg.d08a9c72c3f2355ec220dec5b39f3fbf.jpg

IMG_0255.jpg.e5d1b3ae44d6d57dc433526e05eac7e2.jpg

 

(I noticed, too late, on the figure above left, that I hadn't even finished painting his chest/shirt area!)

 

IMG_0257.jpg.3b4dffa29c52eb8542cbc9839972f7db.jpg

IMG_0258.jpg

IMG_0254.jpg.4e35ff039763562a48108ed1128cd6c4.jpg

IMG_0256.jpg.da62d5d07b5b8a7b8fc474b8d79fe327.jpg

IMG_0248.jpg.c0d311393a47a446f6a065bc753df14a.jpg

IMG_0259.jpg.41a6734bab7b18035b4a5f44362a27f5.jpg

 

As you can see, the wash has been a bit too overwhelming for some of the figures. A lot of them are going in a field to be hop pickers, so a certain amount of grubby-ness is to be expected. But the couple above look like they've been jumping in puddles and they're destined for the platform! Some touching up of certain colours may be necessary, or perhaps a slightly weaker wash next time.

 

My favourite thing about these figures is the variety of poses, almost all of which are standing or sitting or kneeling; some are specifically designed to be in conversation or otherwise engaged in some other stationary endeavour. There are no running figures destined to be planted in place, comically stuck in a running pose but never going anywhere. Positioning is another key factor in utilising figures effectively and it's something I hope I can get right when I commit my figures to Addleford Green in due course.

 

For now I'd really appreciate your thoughts and any tips you may have for painting figures!

 

All for now,

Jonathan

Edited by JRamsden

  • Like 4
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

11 Comments


Recommended Comments

  • RMweb Gold

Interesting, especially as I haven’t got as far as considering/placing figures yet. What are the small mounts that some figures are standing on, presumably just for painting purposes?

Link to comment
16 hours ago, goldngreen said:

I have my daughter on my layout thanks to Model. 

 

Yes, I'd heard you can go along and have a scan made of yourself or anyone else you'd like. What an amazing feature to have on your layout and something that makes it truly unique and personal to you. The possibilities of this technology are impressive to say the least :)

 

2 hours ago, ITG said:

Interesting, especially as I haven’t got as far as considering/placing figures yet. What are the small mounts that some figures are standing on, presumably just for painting purposes?

 

If only I hadn't lost my original images! These figures tend to come with various plastic appendages supporting them. The man with the scythe, for example, had very thin poles of plastic extending from the edges of the tool to the base. I guess this is all to do with the 3D printing process, but it also supports the more delicate elements for transportation and painting. They can be very easily trimmed away with a sharp blade.

 

The plastic bases you see here will also be trimmed off once I come to plant them permanently. I'm not a fan of seeing an obvious base on my figures and find a dot of glue to the feet is generally enough to hold them, particularly when I'm not likely to be repositioning them or the layout.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
3 hours ago, col.stephens said:

My main problem with 3D printed figures is that the manufacturers seem to scan the same bloke every time, posing as different characters.  You can populate your layout with clones!  In your opening post you showed some of the abysmal offerings on sale but there are much better figures available, such as Monty's Models from Dart Castings or the wonderful carved figures from Andrew C. Stadden.  I'll post a link here in case you haven't seen them.

https://www.acstadden.co.uk/

 

If I might be allowed, here is one of the Monty's Models figures to give an idea of the quality...

 

Terry

 

Hi Terry, thanks for your comments :)

 

There's definitely a similarity between some of these figures and, I suspect, it would be more noticeable with a larger sample size. That said, I picked the ones I did for the sake of visual variety. There's definitely a nice mix of body types in here and sometimes just changing the skin colour can help change up the identity. I don't find the fidelity to be high enough to tell individual facial features at this scale.

 

The figures you linked also look impressive; thanks for the tip. I think I may have some of the Monty's Models figures as one or two look suspiciously like the ones I got from Langley Models. I can't say I was all that impressed with some of them, although the ones featured on this website do look a step above in most cases.

 

Alas, I feel a lot of this comes down to the skill of the painter and I just haven't succeeded this time. I'll return to my work and see if I can get a more subtle colouration on these poor people!

 

Link to comment
  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, JRamsden said:

 

Hi Terry, thanks for your comments :)

 

There's definitely a similarity between some of these figures and, I suspect, it would be more noticeable with a larger sample size. That said, I picked the ones I did for the sake of visual variety. There's definitely a nice mix of body types in here and sometimes just changing the skin colour can help change up the identity. I don't find the fidelity to be high enough to tell individual facial features at this scale.

 

The figures you linked also look impressive; thanks for the tip. I think I may have some of the Monty's Models figures as one or two look suspiciously like the ones I got from Langley Models. I can't say I was all that impressed with some of them, although the ones featured on this website do look a step above in most cases.

 

Alas, I feel a lot of this comes down to the skill of the painter and I just haven't succeeded this time. I'll return to my work and see if I can get a more subtle colouration on these poor people!

 

Painting figures in small scales does take practice. You need to ensure that you use a very small brush 000 or 00. Use synthetic for acrylic and hair for enamels. Make sure that it is thoroughly cleaned after each colour. I personally would avoid black or dark washes. I would put on a layer of colour a bit darker than you want the end result to be and then dry brush the lighter colour you want over the top. Dry brushing means taking paint off your brush on a bit of card or kitchen roll and stroking the remaining paint across the raised areas leaving the darker colour in the recesses or folds. That again takes practice. Don't over emphasize the dark bits. Eyes are important although they are tiny specks. Don't use black. Dark brown or the occasional blue dots work in 4mm, with a thin eye brow above, matching the hair colour. You can't see the 'whites' at that scale. I am pleased to see that you keep your figures matt. The number of otherwise top class layouts spoilt by shiny figures is quite surprising.

Link to comment
12 hours ago, phil_sutters said:

Painting figures in small scales does take practice. You need to ensure that you use a very small brush 000 or 00. Use synthetic for acrylic and hair for enamels. Make sure that it is thoroughly cleaned after each colour. I personally would avoid black or dark washes. I would put on a layer of colour a bit darker than you want the end result to be and then dry brush the lighter colour you want over the top. Dry brushing means taking paint off your brush on a bit of card or kitchen roll and stroking the remaining paint across the raised areas leaving the darker colour in the recesses or folds. That again takes practice. Don't over emphasize the dark bits. Eyes are important although they are tiny specks. Don't use black. Dark brown or the occasional blue dots work in 4mm, with a thin eye brow above, matching the hair colour. You can't see the 'whites' at that scale. I am pleased to see that you keep your figures matt. The number of otherwise top class layouts spoilt by shiny figures is quite surprising.

 

Hi Phil,

 

Thank you for your really helpful advice. I bought the smallest brush I could find for this project, although when I started I realised it could still have been smaller! I have also found synthetic brushes better for acrylics too; I tend to avoid enamels almost entirely now. Pretty much everything I paint gets a coat of some kind of matt clear sealer too; I share your dislike of gloss finishes! I also try to employ dry brushing on a lot of my painting projects but I fear it's a technique I have yet to master. Just when you think you really have removed a lot of the paint from the brush, the model is covered in it! It was definitely overkill in this instance.

 

I think I'll change my approach as you suggest here: darker paint overall and dry brush a lighter shade over the top. I have done this for smaller, inanimate objects and enjoyed the effect it made. I was encouraged by the dark wash initially but on reflection it does appear to be too harsh for these figures :(

 

I'm intrigued by your comments about adding eyes. I have seen both amazing and terrible examples of this. Whenever I have tried, it's the latter category! I'm personally happy with the blank face look (!) but I might give this a try and see how it goes.

Link to comment

I agree about crossing a Rubicon when you paint ModelU figures. I wouldn’t use anything else now. I’ve even had a go at sculpting my own figures in 4mm and my layout has a few of those. They’re ok if they have their back to you!

 

Personally I prefer enamels for painting anything and that includes figures. I stir the paint very well, wipe the stirrer onto a palette and then have a black, white and dark brown handy for mixing lighter and darker shades. A very pale dry brush is helpful afterwards to highlight the fantastic detail these figures have.

I certainly agree about avoiding shiny figures at all costs, I think glossy figures must be my no.1 pet hate, they look so plastic. 


You’re doing a great job on your figures, trial and error and lots of practice. Keep up the good work!

 

1C30C0F7-0C06-4850-911F-90C8BB4CB517.jpeg

3D0121FB-FC9A-414A-8441-3519D9965A1C.jpeg

21A2AD26-691F-4F3A-99D2-62B52B944C4C.jpeg

865F83BA-FDDD-401A-9EF4-DB5E1AE299C4.jpeg

C52AEAEE-5E23-47F3-BBE6-B661D8D86BD8.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to comment

When painting my Edwardian period figures (Andrew Stadden), I initially prime them white, then use enamels to paint them.  I always mix up colours (never using anything straight from the tin), and mix up 3 shades of the same colour, a base colour, one a little darker (by adding slightly more of the darkest colour used in the mix) for the shadows, and one a little lighter (by adding a touch of white) for the highlights.

 

I tend to apply paint where it is needed with a very fine brush in the shadows rather than an all over wash, and dry brush the highlights.

 

A few photos of my endeavours follow :

z1.JPG.dc78623b7193a495a0363a4937648d56.JPG

 

z2.JPG.963a8feeeefd9e95b2e579728b6ea33f.JPG

 

z3.jpg.11a7910a009f6cee85e76213dfd2add6.jpg   

 

I perhaps should add that these are all 2mm scale, so do look somewhat better in the flesh than they do blown up to huge proportions on screen!!!

 

Ian

  • Like 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to comment
On 01/01/2021 at 13:48, 5&9Models said:

I agree about crossing a Rubicon when you paint ModelU figures...

 

I am truly humbled by the examples posted here. What amazing detail! This is truly the level I aspire to and your comments have inspired me to give it another go. Did you add the pins to the figures yourself? Is that for ease of holding during painting or more for planting the figures on the layout?

 

I always used to use enamels in the past, but since the introduction of readily available acrylics I largely jumped ship. This is generally because they are water based (no smelly products needed to clean brushes!) and I always felt I had more control over them. That said, I do find their consistency varies greatly and, certainly the Humbrol acrylic range, can be very inconsistent. I still have some enamels in my collection so maybe I'll give them a go.  

 

On 18/01/2021 at 11:12, Ian Smith said:

When painting my Edwardian period figures (Andrew Stadden), I initially prime them white, then use enamels to paint them...

 

If this is 2mm scale, then my hat is well and truly off to you sir! The level of detail is phenomenal. Perhaps I won't moan in future that 4mm figures are too fiddly to paint!

 

The tip about painting shadows and highlights is gratefully received and I will surely give that a try on my next run. It definitely makes more sense than what I have tried and seems to have more finesse than using a wash at the end. The product of your hard work and technique speaks for itself.

Edited by JRamsden
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

They are indeed 2mm scale, the thread for my layout (Modbury) can be found in the 2mm section of RMweb, a link to which is in my signature (there is a similar link to my website dedicated to Modbury there too).
When I compiled my original response, I forgot to add that I always drill a 0.3mm hole up the leg or dress of my figures into which I glue a piece of brass wire. I then use a pin chuck to hold this peg while painting the figures. The peg allows me to place the figures on the layout (in a suitable sized hole of course), my plan being that I could ring the changes by moving the figures from time to time, although in reality once placed that is where they have stayed. I tend to use a magnifying lamp when doing this sort of work as good light and magnification is crucial at my time of life :D

Ian

Link to comment
4 hours ago, JRamsden said:

Did you add the pins to the figures yourself? Is that for ease of holding during painting or more for planting the figures on the layout?

Thank you. Yes, I tend to drill a 0.5mm hole up a leg and glue in a piece of brass or n/s wire so I can hold the figure whilst painting but also glue it into a corresponding hole in the layout. My baseboards have to be stored on end (lack of space) so I don’t want my figures going walk about should the adhesive not quite do the job.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...