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Keyhaven

A blog by Andy Y in RMweb Blogs

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33/0 - loose ends

Andy Y

Entry posted by Andy Y

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I wouldn't call it one of my quickest projects, after 18 months it's still not actually finished but I thought it would be appropriate to round up the bits that have been around before.

 

Keyhaven won't feel right to me until there's a filthy old Crompton burbling away in early guise (probably GSYPWL - work that one out) and so a 33/1 and a 33/0 shell have been sitting for ages idly waiting for me to grab some time to attack them. I know I could probably just about live with the incorrect roof profile of a 33/0 but if I was going to go to the trouble of doing all the other bits to backdate it I thought I'd may as well make it as right as I could.

 

Stage 1 - Hacking the body.

 

The cabs have been cut away from the 33/0 with the cut being made just above the moulding line as shown below. It takes time and a will to cut gently and often rather than too deep in any one pass but a reasonably neat line can be taken by working freehand around the moulding.

 

 

file.php?id=28731

 

 

To give myself maximum room for error in doing this I cut below the moulding line on the 33/1 cabs and then filed back with a test fit process until it was near enough. There is a slight difference in the depth between the two moulding lines between the two variants, the 33/0 being around 0.5mm deeper, which is correct? I don't know but by this time it was easier to take more of the top of the 33/0 cabs than it was to take anything off the roof of the 33/1.

 

file.php?id=28736

 

 

 

Moving onto the roof it was relatively easy to determine the position of the old exhaust from the drawing below.

 

file.php?id=28733

 

 

 

What was concerning was the outer sides of the exhaust on the drawing were different from all of the images I had seen but I've followed the images rather than the drawings.

 

Handily on the roof of the 33/1 are four little pimples (plate bolts or lifting eyes?) that appear to mark the position of the earlier exhaust so it becomes a case of joining those dots with a small saw.

 

file.php?id=28735

 

 

 

Once the panel is cut out the opening is tidied with a file, the removed section is filed back by around 2mm at each side and a vertical face prepared on each side. A plasticard liner will be created inside the body for the reduced exhaust panel to be glued upon.

 

The clamps/brackets are removed from the roof by a shaving action with the knife, shaving from varying directions produces a reasonable result but any irregularities are removed by using a small file very softly over them. The newer style exhaust grille is also removed by shaving and filing prior to filling.

 

file.php?id=28737

 

 

 

So; that's the part done that had the potential to ruin two bodies, it was not as bad as I thought to be honest but it does represent 3-4 hours steady work and I haven't got anywhere near re-assembly - that will come when I've done some rubbing down.

 

 

file.php?id=28739

 

 

 

I shall  use the early 24 circular exhaust port (pic below) from the Brassmasters 24/25 detailing etch which is spot on for the dimensions given, the wife may also find a very small hole in one of her nylons to form the grille.

 

post-1-12643378515809.jpg

 

The cavity around the roof horns was filled along with the later vent.

 

post-1-1264338824494.jpg

 

The body and cab were brought back together.

 

post-1-12643388457667.jpg

 

The following pic shows the vent and exhaust in situ.

 

post-1-12643399902064.jpg

 

The remainder of the process was re-assembly, re-siting the speaker beneath the exhaust rather than beneath the cooling fan (why do we do that?) and taking it through the paint shop.

 

As I said it isn't complete, it will be when I find where those Archers rivets for the roof got to though.

 

33GSYP.jpg

 

33GSYPa.jpg

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8 Comments

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  • RMweb Gold
Captain Kernow
  • RMweb Gold

Well that's a really nicely executed bit of bodywork, Andy, and a good paint job on the finished article, too, weathering an all. Top stuff and very instructive.

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Dave47549

Ver' nice Andy.icon_thumbsup2.gif

 

One of these days, i'm going to succumb to a certain retailers discounts. Whilst i could live with a 33/1, a /0 would make more sense. I was wonderin, did you consider cutting the cabs below the window line (by the mould line), which would have avoided any potential problems with the curved roofline? - or simply adding a plasticard insert to the buckeye cutout?

 

Just wondering, as it's a job i hope to be doing in the future. Cheers!

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Andy Y
did you consider cutting the cabs below the window line (by the mould line), which would have avoided any potential problems with the curved roofline? - or simply adding a plasticard insert to the buckeye cutout?

 

I did Dave, I thought it would be easier to disguise any indiscretions higher up if they happened but would feel comfortable in doing it that way after this first attempt.

 

I happen to have another spare 33/1 that will get the front fill treatment as a comparison to become a green/white lining one for variety.

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James Hilton

Andy - looks very nice indeed... however before anyone else considers major surgery might I suggest it's easier to correct the roof profile than you think...

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12152&start=200#p570615

 

If you take some wet-and-dry paper to the roof of the 33/0 you can get a much better profile :) It requires a repaint, but then so does Andy's surgery! :)

 

Result here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12152&start=225#p583504

file.php?id=63025

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Dave47549

I did Dave, I thought it would be easier to disguise any indiscretions higher up if they happened but would feel comfortable in doing it that way after this first attempt..

 

I recall now that you've said that in the past. icon_redface.gif

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10800

Very useful little construction/modification sequence Andy, and an authentic looking result biggrin.gif

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P.C.M

Hi Andy,

I have followed your progress on this one as I am a bit of a Crompton fan.

She looks really good,icon_thumbsup2.gif I think the green really suits the 33s though I never saw one in service.

 

One of the mods I did on my 33s was to narrow down the Fuel tank saction by 2mm so that it sits in line with the chassis and not the body, I think some of the later locos had this fixed, and yours my be ok but I am not sure from looking at your pictures. Just though it may be of interest to you.

 

Cheers Peter,

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Andy Y

 

One of the mods I did on my 33s was to narrow down the Fuel tank saction by 2mm so that it sits in line with the chassis and not the body, I think some of the later locos had this fixed, and yours my be ok but I am not sure from looking at your pictures. Just though it may be of interest to you.
 

 

I can see what you mean Peter and I'd say mine was one of the early ones. Did you take the 2mm off the centre section of the tanks?

 

The sideways slop of the body on the bogies can lead to certain things, especially the horizontal plate from the top of the steps looking too prominent on occasion.

 

I've been badgering Brian Hanson of Shawplan for laser cut glazing, side grilles to match his other extreme etches and replacement steps/horizontal plates.

 

 

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