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92220

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Blog Entries posted by 92220

  1. 92220
    OK, here is a pic of the front of the prototype, showing I got the vacuum pipe bracket on the first post somewhere near right.
     

     
    The steam heat pipe was a later addition.
     
    Now to the driver's side under cab pipework.
     
    This is rarely modelled as far as I know but it is very noticeable, even if not as prominent as the massive bundle of injector pipework on the fireman's side. There is more still, but it is fine enough not to worry for my purposes.
     
    0.7mm copper wire bent to shape, Brassmasters pipe flange soldered in the correct position, secured using a twist of 0.2mm wire soldered in place on the bend and superglued into a tiny drilled hole. End of the wire glued into a drilled hole in the rear of the loco. A second pipe, soldered onto the first, joins to a water hose from the tender. There is a similar hose from the rhs water injector, and both of these fit nicely into the void under the tender, between the steps. The tender can then move freely without contacting these pipes when in normal use.
     

     
    Cab doors:
     
    As I mentioned, these are actually attached to the tender on the real thing. Most models have them, if at all, on the cab.
     
    Start point was a set of Brassmasters cab doors. Cut off the mounting strips so that they are 2.5mm long.
     

     
    Solder short lengths of 0.45 ns wire to the rear of the strips
     


     
    Drill locating holes (these on another tender)
     

     
    Paint and fix in place:
     

     
    End result:
     

     
    There is a small diagonal chamfer at the base of the cab door closest to the tender, presumably to accommodate the slope of the fall plate. I've not decided whether I'm going that far yet!
     
    It does work. You could mount them with a little more play, but the slight springiness in the loco-tender coupling gives a tiny bit of play. They're rigid enough but flexible enough. If that makes any sense.
     
    Iain
  2. 92220
    Hi all,
     
    I ought to have done some step by step photos, but here are some after the conversion was finished:
     

     
    Basis was an oddly weathered secondhand Superdetail Hornby Black 5, with rivetted tender and forward top feed, Crownline conversion kit and Brassmasters detailing kit, Gibson bogie wheels, plus a bit of improvisation, or was it scratchbuilding?!
     

     

     
    Cheated - using the Crownline etched Timken axle box covers instead of removing the entire axlebox and starting again.....
     

     

     

     

     
    There are many things I would have liked to have done better........
    The etched cab sides aren't quite perfect (windows too small?), and neither are the steampipes.
    The tender was slightly damaged when I bought the loco, and I could have used the Crownline Etched overlays.
    I wish I'd seen, before I started, the Stanier tender mods proposed (by MuckyDuck?) as this one grates a bit now....
     
    But it captures the essence, and I hope it will look good once painted lined and weathered.
     
    Iain
  3. 92220
    Hi all,
     
    Regarding the Caprotti Black 5 in my blog, I’ve got a couple of questions, and a problem.
     
    Can anyone confirm whether I should leave or remove the AWS fittings if I am looking at 1962? If not, I'm going to leave them.....
     
    What would be the best primer to start the painting with? I have a Halfords grey, but it was not the easiest thing to use last time and I am wondering whether I should try something else.
     
    I've had a look at the infill under the smokebox and I'm not sure I can remove it without messing up the front end. I'll know next time and I can do it to normal Black 5s, but this had the front frames removed and white metal ones added: it was quite flimsy.
     
    The problem:
    I can't get the chimney off, at least while using reasonable force. I used Roket max to stick it, drilled a locating hole and the fit was good. Any suggestions?
     
    Thanks,
     
    Iain
     
     
     
  4. 92220
    Hi all,
     
    Here is a blow-by-blow account of upgrading the Bachmann Evening Star. I think the basic model is really superb in many ways, but I wanted to do a few modifications.
     
    Extra weight for improved adhesion
    Loco-tender coupling distance
    Loco lifting rings on front frames
    Correct pattern front coupling and vacuum pipe
    Remove steamheating pipe base from buffer beam
    GWR pattern lamp irons
    Buffer shank steps on loco and tender
    Remove NEM pocket from front bogie and fabricate spring and damper
    Gibson front bogie wheels
    Gibson smokebox door dart
    New handrails with correct pillars
    Comet front steps
    Cab doors (they're actually tender doors in real life....)
    Tender buffer beam details
    Tender coupling "goalpost"
    Nameplate and commemorative plate
    New injector pipework under fireman's side of cab
    Driver's side under cab pipework
    Water pipes from tender to injectors
    Remove steam heating fitment from side of firebox (only fitted in preservation)
    Detail copper pipes and chimney cap as copper not black or brass
     
    Plus some painting, weathering and coaling to represent the loco in mid 1962 condition, when it was occasionally loved and cleaned but not pristine.
     
    OK, so just a few things to do! Some of these are pretty regularly done and I've drawn inspiration from the work of Tim Shackleton, George Dent and several others no doubt. But I have about 1% of their expertise (if I am generous), so here we go......
     
    Extra weight:
     
    Front of smokebox filled with liquid gravity, set with superglue

    I made up a plasticard container for more liquid gravity, as I had no idea which wires to cut and join, and maybe I might go DCC at some stage in the future so I thought it best to work around the DCC socket than remove it.



    Strips of lead tape in firebox. There is not much room anywhere in the 9F body so you need to be careful to check constantly.


     
    That's the first bit!
     
    Next bit......
     
    Loco to tender coupling.
    I wasn't happy with the cavernous gap using the standard drawbar, so I used a variation on Tony Wright's method. I've done 4 Bachmann 9Fs this way now and it really works. No problems round curves or through points, and no problems with heavy loads.
     
    Loco end - remove the drawbar, which is a fiddle. Fabricate a small figure of 8 from 0.45 nickel silver wire to fit over the mounting for the drawbar.
     

     
    Tender: attach a length of the same wire to the drawbar post, extend it through the hole and make into a hook as shown. Also need to file down the tender buffers quite some way - maybe 3 mm - to the step that is clearly visible.
     

     
    I'll show how much of an effect this has later.
     
    Front end:
     
    Comet front steps with diagonal rear bracing are much more prototypical and stronger than the Bachmann ones. They do need trimming before careful fixing with epoxy
     

     
    Many 9Fs, 92220 among them, had a front coupling with an extra link. These are from Albert Goodall and fiddly but exquisite! Most carried the bottom link hooked over the shackle. White metal vac pipe from I don't know where, maybe Brassmasters (but it is the right shape and detail). There is a characteristic mounting bracket which is hopefully as twisted on the prototype as on mine. WR pattern lamp irons from an etch of the same I picked up on ebay. Smokebox door dart from Gibson. Lifting rings are from Brassmasters mixed pipe flanges, one of which comes out just the right size. Buffer shank steps from Brassmasters too, spares from the Black 5.
     
    I tried to file down the obese lump for the steam heating pipe, and got somewhere with it, even if not completely removed.
     

     

     
    Front bogie:
    I followed George Dent's advice in a MR magazine. NEM pocket cut off. Plasticard and plastic tube damper. 3 bolt offcuts for the springs. It isn't perfect at all, and it was hard to fit together, but it will do.
    I do have a Brassmasters front pony , which will replace this in time but it is scary to look at.......!

     
    Iain
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