iclose

Thanks for all the replies I have come to the conclusion the only way to have 2 levels is to uses a helix to get a decent height between the boards. I did some tests and 6" would be achievable and the loco could manage it with the length of trains I want to run but 3'6" is too far to reach with limited clearance it is difficult enough all on one level. I have decided that I need 12" between the boards which will give a gap of 10" if I use 2" X 1" for the baseboard frames. The only way to achieve this in the space I have available is to uses a helix. I have also decided to make the boards narrower so it is easier to reach the back. The idea now is to have a helix at one end with 2 reverse loops at the other, one on each level. and have a 10' by 2'6" section in the middle. I just need to come up with a track plan now and do some more research on building a helix.

The drawing was done quickly to help explain my idea it wasn't done to the exact scale. It would be a rebuild of an existing layout so I know it will fit. The only space available is 4' along one wall ideally I would make the layout wider and have a gap in the middle between the storage yard and the scenic section. Apart from the main line and the rock face behind it the rest of the scenery will be removable to access the lower storage yard to minimise damage. What I really want to know is if the gradient will work, if having the storage yards one above other is practical and if anyone has built a similar layout did it work.

I had considered a reversing loop but the storage sidings would be no longer than what I have now. The ideal of the storage yards one above the other is to allow longer storage sidings so I can have more long freight trains. The wagon repair depot will give plenty of scope for shunting as well as running long trains on the main line going past it.

There won't be any need to re arrange trains in the storage yards. I use Kadee's so the plan would be to put uncoupling magnets at the end of the storage roads to uncouple the loco and couple one up to the other end to bring it out again. The top deck would be made so it could be lifted off if access to the lower level is needed. Any changes of stock etc would be done in the wagon works sidings. I have considered a vertical storage system in the past but decided it would be far to complicated.

The layout is 18' long, 6'by 4' at one end and 4' by 4' at the other with and 8' by 3'6" section in the middle. Its along one wall of a narrow room. Currently have a continuous run double track with storage sidings at the back and a station with a small engineers yard at the front. But the storage sidings are limited in length on the inside loop. Will be modern diesels and DCC controlled.

Having recently seen a drone photograph of WE Davis wagon works it has given me an idea for a new layout. There is a line that runs past the WE Davis site that is at the bottom of a rock face with the works at the top. As the space for my layout is restricted and I struggle to have a continuous loop with room for decent length storage sidings my idea is to have an end to end layout but with the storage yards on top of each other at the back with the line connecting them running across the front to f the layout with the wagon works between the main line and the storage yards. Track plan below showing roughly what I want . My idea is to have a 6 inch hight difference between the storage yards which would give the main line running between them a gradient of 1 in 20 or possibly 1 in 24 if I can include the curve at the end in the gradient alternatively I could have a helix at on end and increase the high difference between the 2 levels and have the wagon works and the main line on the same level. Has anyone built a layout like this? Is it a sensible ideas? Any thoughts and comment gratefully received. davis 2.pdf

I would like some advice on how to signal my layout. It is a double track mainline with a 3 platform station, a single track branch line and a locomotive stabling point. the branchline platform is bidirectional. the main line goes in to a tunnel on the left and there is a bridge to the right hand side over the main line and the branch line. The period I am modelling is the mid to late 2000's and the signals are all coloured lights Digram below.

I presently have mainly Lenz kit, set 100 with LS 100 accessory decoders and a computer interface. I was planning to upgrade to the new lenz command station LVZ 200 when it came out but having read reviews of it, it doesn't appear to be much of a step forward. I also have a DCC4PC railcom occupancy detector which I bought several years ago as I intend to go to computer control. I will need another DCC4P occupancy detector if I want to go to full computer control, however as DCC4PC seem to have stop development of their products I am unsure if this is the best way to go. I like the look of the Roco Z21 and I am considering selling my existing kit and changing it for the Roco Z21 system including occupancy detectors and accessory decoders. However I would like to know if there is any advantage to changing to a Z21 if I am going to use a computer program such as iTrain, or will my existing kit with computer control give me the same result. Any thoughts from people who have used a Z21 or lenz set 100 with a computer very much appreciated.

Accuracale are making one to go with the MKV Caledonian sleepers

Depends how tight your curves are and if the wagons are fitted with NME pockets at and they are at the correct hight, this is particularly a problem with some Bachmann wagons such as the MFA. Probably a selection of 18, 19 and 20 will be sufficient for the NME fitted wagons. For the none NME wagons a section of wisker coupling of different lengths and different head settings will be needed fitted to a draft gear box. A height gauge is essential.

Does anyone know if the Hornby R076 foot bridge, the one in the link below, is based on an actual bridge. I got one for Christmas and was wondering if it could be made to look like something reasonable. https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/footbridge-kit.html

I think the Bachmann ones have opening doors as well.

6 foot is wide enough for the curves on the end you don't have to use the full width of the room. Most modern OO gauge stock will go round 3rd and 4th radius curves with out a problem.

Orange rust looks wrong. I use sleeper grime, I have tired other browns, various earth coloures, but sleeper grime looks best to me.

Came across these decoders on Ebay. Does anyone know anything about them. I am thinking of using them as lighting decoders for voyager as they are cheap. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/widgets-dcc/m.html?item=151569847832&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562