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Everything posted by hayfield

  1. It certainly gets you a model quickly and the livery is superb, defiantly needs a decent chassis, so its a SEF etched one that it will finish with, In the meantime I will alter the wheels as I want to try some cheap can motors I bought from China a year ago. I should get on with re-gauging and back dating my Wills and SEF J69's
  2. Finally the postman turned up with some packages, two of which will be farmed, one was a miss described GWR mogul etched brass chassis with a LMS tender, well the tender will be resold making the chassis quite cheap. I bought this on Boxing day, the seller did not post it till the 10th (somewhat annoying) then our sorting office is having problems. Still it arrived The second was a kit which had two chassis, I am keeping the etched brass chassis frames along with a few other extras and reselling the kit (still with a chassis) which again should soften the cost greatly.
  3. Today my Great Eastern S56 arrived, its a 3D printed loco body designed to fit the Dapol/Hornby Terrier loco and is rather splendid The plan is simple I want to try and fit a Branchlines Terrier chassis. A first try as expected quite a poor fit. OK its the wrong wheelbase for starters and the chassis is a bit short. The first job is to alter the height and level off under the chassis where the EM gauge frames go. Both locos have 4' drivers but Romford 16mm wheels are too large (usual issue with overlarge flanges. I have some 15mm wheels so I will give them a try. The loco is sitting too high above the mainframes, or rather the mainframes are too short I do have both a Wills and a Southeastern Finecast J69's. Southeastern Finecast sell etched J69 chassis, the answer is to buy a chassis and divert the Terrier chassis to a Terrier loco Yesterday as well as today was a bit of a write off as far as modelling is concerned, what I did do was to muddle about with the viaduct including a new bridge over the revised road plan. I picked up some Wills English bond brick sheets so I can extend the wall under the railway and build up the wall on the other side. Still there has been a bit more progress in how I think it will evolve from the earlier ideas
  4. Sadly this is the same for quite a lot of companies at this moment in that they see no reason to offer any form of customer service. As it happens I have found in the past Amazon to buck the trend and are easily contactable and very customer focused. Something the likes of Hermes and eBay could learn from
  5. The loco is coming along nicely, and the quality of your workmanship looks to be very high
  6. I found this old damaged and incomplete kit in a box of 2 other incomplete, its a City Streets kit in a very poor condition, two parts were broken and I struggled to get it together as few glues would stick to the resin parts anyway its changed my mind about what to do in this area another 3D kit will be bought rather than a 2 level goods yard I also wanted to make a start on the bridge section, this has come to a bit of a false start simply as I need some matching additional brick sheets. Still if nothing else the scene is developing/evolving as I try out different ideas
  7. In the book (Great Eastern Town and Country) there is a large fold out map starting at Fenchurch Street and right out to Poplar and Blackwall. Not only did the GER have warehouses so did many other companies LT&SR, MR, GWR, L&NWR, NLR, GNR and Millwall Extension Railway, I presume others had yards outside the map in question Great Western Railway in North East London? I guess with the docks in London being one of the main international docks, goods would then both radiate all across the country and draw in goods to be sent abroad. Therefore links and storage facilities must have been required
  8. Thanks for the compliment, these scratch builders aid kits are excellent, I have 4 to date with one more coming in the post and I may well be ordering at least 4 more, three of which will be to convert 2 warehouses and a shop from low relief to full 3D Whilst they are not complete kits, they do come with quite a lot of detail, including superb window and door laser cut sheets. Now I must read this thread as its one I have missed and looks to be one where I can pickup lots of ideas from
  9. This is a shot of what I am thinking about. I have a slightly different style 2 story building ordered but shows the opportunities available. Like the 3 story warehouse it will need to be more 3D (as will the shop so I think I will need to order2 more kits at least simply to bulk out all 3 buildings so the whole scene morphs into more of a 3D scene
  10. Neil Thank you for the link, certainly shows the atmosphere I am trying to capture, at the moment I am just putting the rough pieces in place, detail will follow but this is great information which is very useful
  11. Mike Just found this thread, and I must say what a delightful layout you have, the skill you have shown in turning the 3D models into a village is top class. I look forward to seeing the layout develop over the coming weeks and months Thank you for sharing it
  12. T I made a start on the second 3 story building last night, this will have to be more of a 3D building as its a few inches from the backscene The right hand end is cut on an angle to mimic its position against the back and side of the scene In its position The rear right hand building had a few more bits added, the single story building will be cut to length flush with the rear story building behind it and two of the windows will be enlarged to make loading bays. Before I do anything with the two story building will need to do the road bridge plus it needs to be a bit more 3D We don't seem to have had a postal delivery for a few days and some of the parts I have ordered have not been despatched yet which is a bit frustrating
  13. Here is a link https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/products/all-purpose-glue/60_sec_all-purposeglue.html A high strength super glue (gel) in a decent size tube and may be slightly longer setting period
  14. Back to the layout The second 3 story warehouse needs shortening, so I decided to the end which will not be needed and add it to the existing off cut from the first build I need to think through this area a bit more, I don't think I will be able to get the inset tracks into the scene Looking at the map I might be able to get the inset track on the lower level under the tracks. Also change some of the windows in the single story warehouse to loading bays. I could even splice the 2 story warehouse into the single story building. I think I also need to start building the bridge (bottom left as this and the viaduct walls are the datum for the height of the track bed
  15. What scale is this item and what make of brickwork please
  16. Ozzyo I bought some Loctite 60 second all purpose glue as I wanted to stick plastic timbers and sleepers to my trackbed. Its a cyanoacrylate glue which is not an instant bond, as its repositionable for 60 seconds, though on non porous surfaces it seems to take longer. I am also using it on a laser cut building kit and plastic sheet as well as card and wood. It states its extra strong and designed for larger surfaces. It comes in a 20g tube so goes a long way. I have done quite a lot of work with it and found its excellent
  17. For a complete change I decided to make a start on a chassis for the E22 The main parts were removed from the fret and tidies up I was luck to but this chassis jig at a super price second hand. Simply the jig is set up using the coupling rods as the datum, next the axle bearings are fitted to the mainframes. Then the jig is used to assemble the chassis together. This method ensures te bearing are matched to the coupling rods, then the chassis is assembled so that all axles are suuare with each other I now have a free running chassis which now needs to be matched to the body before I can proceed with fitting the brake gear and motor
  18. I have been looking at some 3D printed bodies from CDC Models, they have good feedback and the photos of the models look good. I ordered a GER E22 loco (LNER Holden J65), it states its designed to fit a Dapol/Hornby Terrier chassis. Well as I model in EM gauge this chassis is no good for me, but I do have a Branchlines Terrier Chassis which stated suitable for Dapol or K's bodies. I do have plenty of Romford 16mm wheels and some tiny Mashima and Tenshido motors, I have two High Level Road Runner (normal & +) gearboxes on order, but I may need to order a smaller one I have been thinking about these models for some time, there is a Wills J69 with added scratch built side panels going cheap but it looks a bit odd with the sides just stuck to the side tanks, plus its a lot of work, anyway I had an unexpected gift so I have used it to buy the loco I have a friend who models the SECR I can see him wanting the R class they priduce
  19. Can I say its well worth seeking professional advice, left to my own devices the end result would not have been anywhere near as good as it is, the fee I paid the architect was the best value of anything else I spent, initially I baulked at the removal of 2 internal walls as well as two outer walls and a chimneybreast removal, but he was quite right and the extra few thousand it cost not only impacts favourably on daily life, but increases the property value. We use the downstairs rooms much more in this house than our previous property
  20. Bob I missed this one but yes it looks to be a signal at the start of the bridge Stu From where the loco is the inset groundwork stops and I assume its ballasted track. I doubt if any vehicle ever went up on to the track level, just hand carts and perhaps horses, though wagons may have been moved using powered capstans and ropes. The track actually went across Smithfield and on to St Katherine Docks, certainly not loco hauled. And why it never terminated closer to the docks is a mystery to me Any information would be very interesting, sadly whilst all I have done is Googled, I cannot find any other photos or plans
  21. I converted the (conjoined) garage in our previous house 7 or 8 years ago, it ticked the boxes as far as security, damp, insulation etc was concerned, and even though it was not a habitable room, it was a great selling point when we sold the property. Had we been staying I would have added a radiator connected to the central heating system When we moved the grand plan was to have a long shed along the side of the house, both well insulated and secure. As we were having the house extended in the end we opted for a wrap around extension, simply as the costings were similar, but the end room was far more secure, better insulated and cheaper to heat. The cherry on top was it added an extra room increasing the value of the property. The one minor downside was that it moved from permitted development to requiring planning permission. The few weeks extra wait and any minimal extra costs were far out weighted by the increased property and the saving in heating costs ( its now part of the central heating and I doubt if it costs any more to run) as heating an outside shed however well insulated would cost money The biggest benefit was the effect to the remodelling of downstairs of the property, my railway room ended up slightly smaller, but we have quite a large family (kitchen, lounge diner) room and a bigger lounge, rather than an add on extension, plus I just have to open the internal door to my (warm )railway room, rather than going into (or out to) a cold room.
  22. I would also be interested in what methods those who artistic tendencies use as I have a few warehouses to paint
  23. The lintels are card and like the sills are glued in place, they should really be made from thicker material, but they are far more accurate than any I could have cut
  24. Tracing paper is just habit, plus it looks a bit better than a cut up plan. With my latest build ( ) Not a piece of copperclad in sight, all rails held in place with chairs, just the Vee is soldered. The wing rails held in place with chairs, just quite a few extra droppers I prefer plastic timbers and unless you are staining the timbers and not using plastic flexitrack why bother ? If its MEK (not Mekpac) its fine, that is what Butanone is
  25. Have a look at Lcut, as I said in the last reply I built a 7mm narrow gauge engine shed Still waiting for a decent bit of dry brushing some tones in and then weathering, these are complete kits, where as the Fair Price models scratch builder aits. but with plenty of added details. As I said well worth the money, firstly only having an inkjet printer the print your own kits use up the ink and I dont know how colour fast the inks are
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