Geneng

To young37215: Certainly seems the same problem I have. Been doing some more testing. Firstly when set up for non-DCC running no real problem. Did some more prolonged running in. Then reverting to using my DCC decoder, problem recurs; less of a problem when using test rollers but still hopeless on track. Now suspect that output from my decoder may be the problem. Do they cut out when load too high? So my current plan is to try to ease motor load - more lubrication of axle worms/pinions improved matters so looking like decoder copes badly with transmission load on motor. Will persevere with some more running in I think, just to try to ease the gearing. So now some improvement after hours of running on DC rollers. Can now run consistently on DCC on rollers but track still problematic - if starting then jerking often than not but very unpredictable. I think some of the stuff posted elsewhere in DCC forums specifically about Gaugemaster decoders is significant. This decoder seems to have a contact, voltage or current issue that causes it to cut out.

I have a Bachmann Plasser OWB10 which is playing up. As it had already had a failed Hornby decoder I have now fitted a new Gaugemaster decoder but it still does not respond properly, continues to have drop outs. I have cleaned the tracks and wheel pickups and lubed the gears. I think the problem is in the Plasser as other locos work OK. Does anyone have any advice? Should I delve deeper into the Plasser works?

https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-cable-lock-connectors-hef531-15-amp-178673.html Another useful bit of kit. If you ever want to avoid soldering in a power supply cable spur these are quite useful - if good enough for car audio currents then likely good enough for railway electrics. I have used a couple today. Align the cables, apply pliers to cut through the insulation and make the contact and success.

To John New: Why would one failure put out the lot? Each pin is unique to its circuit.

I recently used similar plug-in terminal blocks for board to board connections but purchased from RS Components. They are sold as 12-way blocks in various current ratings. You just cut off the number of ways you need. P.S. RS Components used to be known as just 'Radio Spares'. But if you want to see a huge range of connectors then these are a people worth checking out. Don't know how Model Railway re-sellers compare pricewise.

Due to severe space limitations my layout involves several boards to be assembled as required. This worked pretty well when I used short track sections to link the tracks. But engaging these for double track was always a bit of a pain. So when ModelTech track connectors came on the market I bought a few and converted my layout - took more time and effort than I had anticipated, what with all the soldering and wiring connections but got there. Well then did the fun start! DCC use highlighted some connector concerns so a bit of re-soldering eventually sorted. But when using Hornby 'Live Steam' it soon became apparent that volt drop was an issue as locos just began running out of control. The steam valve drive motor would just started hunting randomly. The Hornby forum postings re-educated me as to why Hornby Live Steam manual does indeed advise additional power links. The problem is it transpires that the new track connectors are incapable of supporting the high current demands involved in 'Live Steam' and the voltage dropped off when locos passed over connectors. I had not appreciated just how significant a voltage drop on 'Live Steam' is. It triggers the on-board loco electronics to initiate the steam valve drive motor, hence my problems with out-of-control runaway locos. So several derailments later I have re-introduced my additional power lead to the track, soldering this time, and problem seems to be resolved for now as voltage clearly better supported. I think I have a damaged points as positioning seems to play havoc with power continuity. Can anyone advise as to what part the little black-bodied square between the movable section on a Hornby points plays in points operation? Will I just need to replace the points?

I have been experimenting with the car system for some years now. Cost seems always to be an issue - small UK market, high cost. The postal charges from many suppliers (inevitably often based in Germany, there being few UK stockists) can be eye-watering for tiny items that could surely be mailed in a simple envelope. You could buy a complete Faller starter set for only 4 times the price of a couple of their spares. I have largely used Sol- Expert components in place of Faller for conversions (again German and supplier has now increased minimum postal charge - what a bummer). Currently trying out digital control but again expensive even though I have avoided Faller and chosen the Dutch MCC Dinamo system. To deal with OO scale needs versus HO I widen the front axle track by using rear wheel hubs - not ideal but works for me. I am now moving gradually to using Lipo batteries instead of Nicad as the latter can struggle a little power-wise with the weight of UK diecast bodies. I actually started with a Base Toys bus - relatively easy, plastic body, apart from dealing with modifying the metal chassis. Later found that Britbus is a good design to work with construction-wise. Only caution I have is that the Sol-Expert brass gears are not as durable as the Faller steel motor worm gears.

Am a recent buyer from DCC Train Automation. Google and Facebook reviews are very favourable. My initial experience very positive - deliveries good and advice quick and helpful. Now locked in to a system for which they are the sole UK supplier and I ordered more items. Money is always taken from my account immediately but I am now waiting weeks for shipments. Now wish I had separated out a pre-order item from orders as no timely shipments being received. I have had to use Facebook to communicate as the website contact page is duff. The guy is busy but seems to find the time to monitor Facebook messaging and always promises. Anyone else finding problems? Has DCC Train Automation taken on more that they can handle? I would not be so concerned if my money not taken upfront. Many companies only take the money at date of shipment. Update: As of 16/03/19 received my outstanding order. From phone conversation with DCCTA seems to have been a temporary hitch with the Dutch supplier. Happy bunny now that I can proceed with my installation.

Well this bus is now looking a bit worse for wear. I upgraded to a lipo battery with great performance but so much that it could drive through Faller stops! Experimented with variable resistors to limit speed but cannot recommend this approach as get rather hot and unreliable. As one motor has now failed I am planning to re-engineer - planning to make a new chassis using only one motor and lipo battery. Unfortunately 'Great Little Gangways' seems to have disappeared from market so I will have to try to make an even more flexible bellows myself.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/112194-Bachmann-class-170/

My cussed route to a Class 170 with DCC sound Conversion of an analogue Bachmann Class 170, 3-coach DMU was the project. Now a 2-coach can be done with only 2 decoders by having the motor chassis in the lead car and fitting a second decoder to the trailing car. But in a 3-coach the centre car chassis obviously requires couplings at both ends so one suggested option to swap the front and centre chassis so saving on a third decoder was going to create a new coupling requirement. I decided it was either to be 3 decoders, seems to be the popular route to take, or a rewiring job. Here is the cussed bit, not the easy option. Decided upon one decoder in centre car and wiring lead and trailer cars through electrically conductive couplings. On cost grounds alone this is probably comparable with using 3 decoders, depending of course upon choice for lighting decoders. I fitted Viessmann 4-pole electrically conductive couplers between the cars so out went all the pickup wiring in the lead and trailing coaches and in went lighting wiring. I found, having inadvertently snapped two of the rather weak Bachmann NEM socket anchors and replaced with non-Bachmann NEM sockets, was that clearances for the Viessmanns could be critical; latter sockets caused the Viessmanns to foul the bodywork; fortunately a rummage produced some Bachmann replacement sockets - problem solved. The NEM socket anchors may prove to be a weak link with time as the rigid Viessman connections will make the bogie attachments work harder on track curves. Wiring checks (with a basic decoder fitted and not my sound one) revealed that despite my efforts I had a lighting wiring issue; the coupling wires are unfortunately all black so only multi-meter continuity testing allowed identification for wiring purposes and I had somehow got one wrong - mixed up a spare with the lead needed for a white. 16 half-coupling wires to get right on a 3-coach train (counting my 4 spare wires). The modern Bachmann units use a more flexible coupling design and it appears two-way coupling links; does anyone know why they don't require three-way - is it perhaps because they now use polarity sensitive LED lighting as distinct from the old bulb lighting in a 170? One thing I found fiddly with the Viessmann couplers wiring was keeping it all clear of the bogie wheels whilst still allowing for bogie movement - I did use the existing bogie slots but also some carefully positioned sleeving as wire control. On test the DMU initially performed well on curves but then there were fouling issues on any 'S' transfer through points to a parallel track - the close coupling meant that coaches fouled when transitioning and derailed. Current solution is another brand of NEM socket from my spares box fitted only to the lead and trailing cars to adjust the gaps between cars. Overall I would say a good learning experience but really the separate decoder solution does look simpler. But if you like a challenge including a lot of soldering and fiddling!

Just upgraded my West Coast Class 33 as support for my West Coast Class 5. I had fitted a Hornby decoder but have now fitted a Loksound. Took a few trial and error circles of my loop to program the right speed, acceleration, deceleration but managed it.

I have been looking for Hornby Pullman oval spring buffers. A lot of the coaches offered on Ebay seem to have missing buffers. Research indicates that it is extremely difficult to find the correct spares and Hornby are currently only able offer one type of spring buffer. I am hopeful that my purchase of buffers from an Ebay supplier will fit or at least be adaptable.

Well as experienced modelers will know chipboard is not a recommended base for track but I used it because it is inexpensive. OK because I found that although Hornby track pins will not indeed grip at all well on chipboard the very fine Peco pins do - just needed to drill some sleepers for the thinner pins and take a bit more care in fixing - job done. Also Hobbycraft sell foam and felt sheets in A4 size, much less expensive than Hornby track base product - very useful for miscellaneous base requirements, but for authenticity you may want to re-colour as the greys on offer are not a match.