Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

964 Good


Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    LNWR/GWR Joint Lines

Recent Profile Visitors

656 profile views
  1. Given the LNWR covered both Manchester and Liverpool it would not be surprising that it sent wagons to another major City such as Bristol. The GWR also had a presence in Manchester and Crewe so the wagons may well have come down on GWR goods trains. Having looked at the North to West timetables, I can see no LNWR named goods trains destined for Bristol but some GWR for example: 8.25 p.m. G.W. Manchester & Bristol Vacuum Goods. (This train also carried the station trucks from Chester and Shrewsbury to Bristol). The Central Wales line ran to Swansea. The LNWR also ran throughout South Wa
  2. In pre-grouping times A lot of goods trains missed the camera because they ran at night particularly fast through trains. The vacuum fitted stock would have been almost exclusively from the named company such as the LNWR and would have avoided the transship shed being fully laden at source.
  3. Why not make a brass footplate. even without the damage, I would do that on a white metal kit unless it had a wavy footplate and valance.
  4. London Road standard hornblocks are lost wax castings not etches so these are probably radial trucks. I will have one somewhere in a kit and will look it out sometime.
  5. I reused the original M&L (now Gibson) frames when I made my short wheelbase 517 no 835 and that works fine. IIRC when building the High Level chassis compensated, the beams rest on the rear axle too so all of that will need shortening too. In doing that you will be shortening the beams and putting more weight on the carrying axle which could affect the balance. I would not see much point in getting the High Level chassis and not building it compensated as that is a major benefit of the chassis. if you look at my 835 build, I put beams in that so every wheel can move t
  6. I am sure the joints between my P4 baseboards have moved over the years and/or as the wood has dried and the layout has been moved around the house. The levels may not be the same meaning slight variances in the heights between boards since they were built. However, stock still negotiates the joins with no problems; everything being compensated and some sprung. I did use the old dodge of soldering the rail to brass screws at the joins firstly to make them more robust but also to give me the option to realign if required. So far I've not found that necessary.
  7. my track is on a transition curve which at the tightest is 1.5m. The baseboard edge is about 10cm in from that giving a radius of 1.4m I’d planned to make this a roundy with 1m curves so 0.9m inner radius would be possibly required
  8. I cribed my woodwork from Gordon S’s ET thread on here. He may well have built some to tighter radii. Have a look how he does it.
  9. I agree. I built my first kit in 00 converted it immediately to EM and then went straight to P4 and have never looked back and I am as ham-fisted as the best. The challenges of building a prototypical model are not just about wheel standards but the overall look including the colours; painting and lining and transfers etc. too In my opinion 00 track on "scale" sleepers (9ft pre-grouping) would look completely wrong.
  10. I used finally a laminate of 2 layers of 6mm ply on the curved sides of my boards. I thought one layer was too thin when I first built it so added a second layer outside. They are screwed to 44mm x 44mm blocks which pulled them into shape.
  11. GWR 517 No. 1425, still a work in progress. I must finish some LNWR locos:
  12. Yes; I just need to finish some more wagons! Edit PS: not to mention the missing dummy chairs on all the track!
  13. Thanks Mikkel I would agree and the difference in colour is apparent in the flesh. I have different versions of PP loco green, pre 1906 both dull and gloss and the later pre 1928 both dull and gloss. I always plan to use the gloss on locos that are to be lined as it makes lining easier. However for me the best shade comes from a couple of very old tins of pre 1928 dull that I have. The paint looks almost black in the tin and goes on darkest and almost matt. For me this looks the best shade and looks "right" to me. Whether it is historically authentic is another matter.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.