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    GN/LNER in BR days (1950s)
    EM gauge

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  1. Morning Andrew. I'm sure you've divulged this before, but can you remind me what you use for primer. I have been using bog standard Halfords grey acrylic for locos but not always 100% to my satisfaction. I'd be very interested in using something better if readily available and as Mike mentioned above, your paintwork is exemplary. Thanks in advance. Clem
  2. That's true. But I'm probably more gullible than Gulliver!
  3. Evening Tony. I've been enjoying your photographic jaunts around Little Bytham. The eye level (scale eye) shots really bring out the realism of the railway and paint your Locos and stock in a most convincing way. I particularly like the M&GN shots from the road. One of the regrets of my layout is that it is a 'flat earth' layout as you call it. However, one angle I've found quite interesting is using the i-phone camera. It allows the shot to be taken about a scale foot above the ground and gives quite and interesting perspective. The big drawback is the lack of depth of field and anything other than a side-on loses focus half way down the loco. But my i-phone is very old and the cameras have improved much since mine. I believe the latest ones allow you to adjust the aperture and presumably allows a much greater depth of field. Anyway, here are one or two shots of the new austerity which is virtually constructionally complete now.
  4. Good Afternoon Chammy. From 1960 to 1966 I lived on Wilford Lane with about half a mile from the GC with a long clear panorama of the line from Trent Bridge all the way South to the Coronation Hotel, just off Wilford Lane. I spent many an evening after school waiting for the fish trains at the bridge on Wilford Lane - first a K3 on the Hull about 6-50pm and then a Brit on the Grimsby at 7-30pm. Over that period I watched the endless stream of 9Fs, V2s, B1s, L1s, K3s, B16s and eventually Brits, Scots and black 5s etc both from the upstairs windows of our house or by the line side at Wilford Lane or Coronation Avenue. I saw 'Cheltenham' on the 12-15 from the house in 1962 after Annesley borrowed it for a week or so, plus many other memories. Very sad watching the line's decline but those first couple of years of that period were magic!
  5. Hi Grahame, ha ha ha! Not a chance! I struggle with stairs greater than 2 floors high, particularly if they are open. I'm staying on the ground in my workshop.
  6. Yes I see what you mean. The rebates in your kit are well pronounced. Thanks Jonathan. Thanks for showing your experience with the earlier Isinglass kits. Sorry - this seems to have got posted before I finished it. What I was going to say was that the Gresley BTK really doesn't pass muster, but yes the pigeon van is much better. This helps to put things in context. I may spend a little time on this D246 but I'm not going to invest too much in it. I'd love one of the etched brass side kit manufacturers (MJT, Bill Bedford or Comet) to produce a D246 that would be my preferred solution.
  7. Yes I see what you mean. The rebates in your kit are well pronounced. Thanks Jonathan.
  8. Morning Jonathan, Yes of course I don't strictly flush glaze Gresley teaks, it's just that I put the glazing in from the front and it does sit a little way back but closer to flush compared to placing glazing the back, if that makes any sense - see D210 below. In my Isinglass kit, there doesn't seem to be a rebate of any useable nature at the back of the windows. (see below). I wonder if he's improved the kits since I received this, some time ago. Can I also ask what glue you used to put the kit together with? Cheers, Clem.
  9. Good morning Andrew. Thanks for asking me that question as I've just got the Isinglass 3-D kit out again. I think I'll have a go at it next but I'll only use the sides and possibly the ends. To be honest, I'm not entirely sure how to approach it - what glue to use and the big question as mentioned in my previous post, how to glaze it. With Kirk coaches, I have a method, which though tedious, works very well with a reasonably good result. I suppose I may have to use a similar method using one of the glazing glues to try to achieve a similar result. The Kirk kits have a tapered lead in to the windows which allows a push fit, reinforced by the smallest smidgen of solvent (not enough to cause fogging). I don't see myself using the kit's roof which comes in two sections (I'll use an MJT one) and for the under frame/bogies I may either a) use a Hornby donor or b) use an MJT floor with ABS bogies. The sides do need quite a bit of cleaning up, particularly some of the windows. To be honest, if etched sides were available, I'd have built a couple already such is the prevalence of this diagram on the Grantham-Nottingham-Derby line. Anyway, here's a photo of the parts, if it helps.
  10. Good evening Tony. I'm very much with you on elegance of the A5s and just wish one had been preserved. The A5/2s were not the only ones with round buffers at the front: 69809 entering Grantham. Note the Diagram 246 Brake third next to the engine and the Thompson Lavatory Comp behind. I've got an isinglass 3-D kit for one of the D246s but I just can't see how I can get the glazing looking OK so I'll be looking to cut and shut a couple of Kirks where I'll be able to flush glaze it, more realistically. So many blooming projects to do! Thinking of this is the nearest I get to feeling pressure in lockdown! :-) I quite like the A7s which I believe were a 3 cylinder freight engine. Oh, and like you I have a fear of heights. It's dogged me all my life and even cost me a day's train-spotting at Crewe in January 1959, But that's another story.
  11. Good afternoon Tony, It's pictures of models like these that provide the almost irresistible urge to drop everything 4mm and move up to 7. Luckily, common sense prevails and my head tells me it's too late in the day (metaphorically) and in any case, I would never have enough room, even if I had enough time left. These pictures really bring out the detail and feeling of sheer size of the real thing, though. Fantastic models and great finishing/weathering. If I were 25 years younger, I'd be very tempted to make the jump! The white metal A5s you were referring too were Nucast. Here's an example of mine, 69807. It was one of the first white metal kits I built (it shows!), but I'm still very fond of it as it brings back memories of when they were common on the Nottingham-Derby and Pinxton trains in the late 50s. It now runs on scratch built chassis.
  12. Hi Andy, a compensated chassis, with horn blocks set up from the coupling rods, would allow acceptable running in a chassis out of square (although you wouldn't want it). However, to achieve a square chassis you need to use something like a set of Comet jigs ( I think they are still available) which you can get at Wizard models. For the setting up of horn blocks, I mainly use an old set of perseverance coupling rod jigs for Gibson/Ultrascale wheels and I've got another set of pointy ones that will set them up for Markits wheels.
  13. Hi Tony. Thanks, but one correction: it's not compensated, it's sprung. But I agree, it's very much each to their own. As I've said before, we've all got our own methods. It's what works for you. I tend to use compensation more on 6-coupled. On 8-coupled I've used springing. I think the key to good running whether rigid or compensated/sprung is setting up the chassis with a jig using the coupling rods to ensure accuracy. That, and making sure the axles run freely in their bearings and coupling rods not overnight - or the opposite, over sloppy, particularly fore and aft. It takes quite a long time from being fairly inexperienced in building locos to then learn and develop and finally focus on your own individual approach and, of course, you learn the biggest lessons by your mistakes. I'm still very much at the learning stage. (...and enjoying it... with one or two moments otherwise ;-) )
  14. I entirely agree, Andy. In the time it's taken me to get about 95% complete with my DJH WD, Tony has produced 4 superb creations. But my (feeble) excuse is that mine is sprung on a scratch built chassis for EM and it's the first time I've attempted a DJH WD. It has been challenging at times but hopefully the next one will be a bit easier, now I know what to look out for. The clearances are tight but OK. Just the injectors and associated pipe work (and new injector covers - the DJH ones are quite under scale), sandboxes, front lamp brackets and front vac pipe to add before painting. Tony, I know you don't like compensated or sprung chassis but my track work/pointwork is nothing like as good as yours and I find a sprung or compensated chassis mitigates this.
  15. Thank you, Tony. That never occurred to me.... And what a brilliant way to answer a question! With superb illustrations which couldn't be more clear. Right, I'll give that a go. I've made one or two bloopers on the kit so far but I suppose you only make progress by learning from mistakes. Anyway, best wishes to you and Mo. Clem.
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