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Hi JohnR, apologies for delay in responding, I haven't been on RM web for a couple of weeks. I vary between using 0.8mm and 0.6mm brass wire. 0.6 is obviously less obtrusive but not so good if the loco is to be used for propelling. In the case of the 812, I used 0.8mm wire as the length of the front loop was such it needed greater rigidity and I anticipated it being used in shunting moves. I chemically blacken the wire with Brass Black. To fix the front loop, I drilled a hole either side of the NEM mounting. I can't remember if I used superglue, PVA, or a touch of epoxy - it doesn't need much. Superglue is usually what I use but it can grip pretty fast. You've really got to get both sides of the loop in the right amount for the correct protrusion pretty quick as there is almost no time for adjustment. Other glues are more forgiving in this respect. For the rear loop on the tender of this loco, I fashioned a loop that where the two ends would sit in the NEM socket with just a little bit of compression. I filled the socket with epoxy and pushed in the ends of the loop with then plenty time to get it set to the right length and sitting even. This has worked well for me in some cases eg on the front (bogie) of a Bachmann B1 and on both ends of a Hornby 08. Can do pics of these and others if you wish. Mike

Further to my post on page 33, I have now finished the front end of my Caley 812. By cutting a tiny bit off the peg on the bit of the steam heat part that fits behind the buffer beam, I managed to effect a satisfactory cross over of the steam and vac pipes that allows approx line-up with the pipes running along the sides of the loco - not perfect, but as hardly seen, acceptable. Brass wire coupling fashioned and fitted then the dummy screw-link coupling also fitted, so all have been accommodated.

I've had my "weathered" 57565 for a couple of weeks now and have been getting round to the usual "improvements" that are required on rtr models. First, it is a very nice model. I can live with the heavy cab but I don't know that I can leave the tender sides as they are. I feel I need to to take the inside edge off a bit as my eye is drawn to it all the time - this to me is the most disappointing feature. My loco runs well (analogue) but is a bit of a sprinter although it still runs well at slow speeds. I feel it should have been geared down a bit. The loco also runs well (analogue) when not electrically attached to the tender. Cosmetically the "weathering" is not really weathering, just a bit of dull finish leaving the front end pretty much pristine and the handrails seem to be the non-weathered ones fitted after the "weathering". Not that important as I'll still be weathering the weathering! The couplings protrude far more than necessary particularly the front one which looks absolutely grotesque. These will anyway be removed with wire loops substituted. I've fitted the heavy coal load inside the tender to give it weight (and lower down) to make way for adding real coal. I'm wondering why there is a large gap from the tender coal area into what would be the water tank (under the toolbox shelf) revealed after removing the cast coal load. I have "plated" that over in readiness for adding real coal. The pipework in the parts pack is fairly fiddly to fit (particularly the steam heat). On the tender rear, the pipework is a secure push fit (important if accessing inside the tender in future) but for better cosmetics I glued the ends of the pipework to the pipes running from the loco but I did not glue the bottom of the vac upstand to the horizontal pipework. I could not however avoid glueing the steam heat bag to the tender which could compromise future access. At the front of the loco the vac and steam pipes require to cross and that frankly does not work in allowing the pipework to marry up. I've done the vac pipework correctly but will need to do some surgery on the steam heat bag and pipework after I've fitted a wire loop coupling the front. Hope this experience is of help to others.

Hi Bill, fortunately on both home and club layouts it's easy to swap between straight DC and feedback controllers. My preference for feedback (shared with some, but not all club members) is it nicely overcomes a voltage drop (which we get in one distant location) without having to be watchful and adjust the setting. On my home layout it also allows a smooth performance on a slightly out of scale incline (space issue!) I have several kit-built locos some, with Portescaps and contrary to common belief they run fine with feedback except for one (which has a fairly old Portescap). I like the 16xx but disappointed with the shortcomings which one should not expect, particularly as it's aimed at "modellers". (The Model Rail sentinel by contrast is very fine wee model and runs beautifully - especially for a 4-wheeler!) Mike

I've had my Model Rail 16xx for a couple of weeks now and overall, a nice model. However (there is always a however!) - In my view it is too highly geared and capable of unbelievable high speed although it does still run well at slow speeds .... on DC. However, its performance using a feedback controller is diabolical. It is very jerky and very noisy and really unuseable with feedback. It is slightly better in reverse with feedback but still unuseable. Interestingly, on straight DC it is also marginally better in reverse than forward. If I hadn't already done mods to it (after running in and testing on straight DC rolling road) I would have returned it as both on my home layout and our club exhibition layout, feedback is preferred. The fitted couplings are a joke given how much they project and relegate the "out of box" appearance to that of a toy. I usually anyway fit wire front couplings where needed and substitute a short Bachmann coupling (filed down and without hook) to the rear but in this case the rear also required a wire coupling. I've attached some pics. (The wire is brass chemically blackened, not painted). The model is 1649 factory weathered but the weathering still has still to be significantly improved. I've fitted etched cab side number plates and I've still to do real coal in the tender. Mike

I'm sure lots of individuals and clubs have, like me, an accumulation of all sort of model railway "stuff" that is not really needed and is probably better to go to "charity" than languish in boxes, in cupboards, on shelves or on such as ebay. Does any one know of schools, organisations etc, particularly for disadvantaged or special needs children, that have a model railway as part of their activities where I (and other RMweb members) could donate good surplus stuff? Mike

David, if you want some Hornby couplings of the type ex Mk1, I'll send you some, no charge. I've replaced all my Hornby couplings with Bachmann couplings. The Bachmann long straight cat no 36-030 gives the same gap between vehicles as the Hornby but the hook is shorter so less play. I use the Bachmann short straight cat no 36-061 which sets the bar just marginally ahead of the buffers, is much neater and is OK on second radius. Mike

Would soft plastic push-fit coloured toggle switch covers from such as Squires do the trick? Choice of 7 colours and I guess about 15p each

In standard form, the Bachmann 101 handles 2nd radius curves no problem. The gap is "generous" so any closing of the gap would improve the overall appearance.

Bob, I did a brief turn on SRPS Railtours BSK 35185 on Friday and not a sign remains of periscopes - clearly very thoroughly stripped out. (Still to check out BCK 21241 and BSK 35405) Mike

Bob, thanks for this and your excellent diagrams. I'll look at my wee office in a completely new light next turn and see what remains of the periscope system if anything. Pie warmer - always wondered what that wee box was for! Cheers, Mike

Hmm, just completed a guard turn today on SRPS's Bo'ness and Kinneil Railway on Mk1BCK 21241 subbing for our usual Mk1 BSK 35405 - never noticed periscope (on either)

You might be interested to see my take on Dundee's 65319 with weatherboard tender cab. Kittybrewster's 65340 also had a similar, if not the same, weatherboard tender cab which might suggest it was fashioned and fitted at the same works - Inverurie perhaps?

Mr Spark, I have checked my model (prompted by Flying Pig) - the vac pipe along the running plate and under the front buffer beam is indeed there. Did you ever find your specs that you lost at the Perth MRS a while back? !!!

Well done Hornby for the J36. Looks fabulous and so far just test run it - runs beautifully. Will be interesting to see it when I've finished it as Dundee's 65319 alongside my GEM/Eastfield kit version (65253). Currently fettling a card mock-up of tender cab although "cab" is a bit of an overstatement in the case of 65319 - more a weather board as my friend Mr Spark has commented. I have a few pics of 65319 but none showing all that I need. A couple of questions if anyone can help. It would seem the toolbox on the tender was removed on 65319 to accommodate the “cab” - is that correct? .... and how was the tender handbrake accommodated on the fireman’s side as it would seem the positioning of the tender cab would have prevented the turning of the handle? And yes, Davy, will be fitting the vac pipe along the running plate!