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Everything posted by AndrewC

  1. I've had a DR5000 for a few years now. It has been used to operate large modular layouts as well as just my home layouts. The only time I get any issues is when I try to interrogate anything connected to Loconet via the Digikeijs configuration app. Then it needs a reboot. It has been reported but no solid fix or workaround yet. It does seem that certain Loconet activities will cause issues. (adding laptop, adding or removing a booster, etc) None of these would normally happen during regular operation. At one modular meet we had trains running with Lenz, Digitrax duplex wireless, Digitrax tethered, WiThrottle, Z21 app, and Multimaus all at the same time. My normal operation is DR5000 as the master, 4 Digikeijs DR5033 boosters, 2 ancient Digitrax command station/boosters running in booster mode. Loconet T with DT400 throttles + DS64 & DAC20 stationary decoders. Loconet B to the boosters. USB to laptop running JMRI & WiServer which in turn allows me to run trains using iPad and iPhone throttles. I also use the DR5000's built in wifi to run Roco MultiMaus throttles. For the price I don't think you can really beat it.
  2. Sorry but I'm at the opposite side of London. However, DCC is DCC. The only real difference with Digitrax is Loconet. (used many other places like Digikeijs) If Ted can't solve your issues I'd suggest the problem is possibly not purely Digitrax. I'm running a hybrid these days but still have my 26 year old Digitrax components in the mix. I've also been in charge of the DCC set up in Freemo meets. These are modular get togethers where dozens of modules get connected with a common DCC system. Most of these are with Digitrax. Have you considered trying a Zoom with Ted or one of your other 'helpers on the phone'? If you want, you could just post me a DM with what you have, and what your issues are. It is possible I've come across the problem before.
  3. I'll have a dig. Used to have a pair of those somewhere. For similar, Model Junction (still doing mail order) have theses Buda stops in stock. https://www.modeljunction.info/pwrelated-accessories/10448-buda-wheel-stops-1-pair.html
  4. I thought it was all rust instead of paint. See also just about every American built Ford between 1970-1980.
  5. Good luck with the new venue. Depending on the weather, its a walk for me.
  6. With regards to throttle selection, we’ve been using Digikeijs for several Freemo meets now. The last one I did the power for had Digikeijs + Lenz throttle + Roco maus, Digitrax duplex wireless and tethered, WiThrottle through JMRI, and Z21 app all at the same time. It really is a little Swiss Army knife of systems.
  7. Info and link passed on to the Freemo FB group, most of which are NMRA BR Region members as well.
  8. Just what I needed. Temptation, and a potentially large rabbit hole to fall down. Great stuff. Keep 'em coming.
  9. As Nigel stated, your PSU has to be at least 3a or it will shut down before your DCS, not a good thing. Ebay is showing a 15v 3a supply which should be more than adequate.
  10. http://www.microscale.com/ResourceCntr_Floquil.html
  11. Harking back to @Railpassion's question around curves & coaches. I've got several of the Walthers 85' Superliners and 2 sets of the Rapido Budd coaches. Neither will go around anything less than 30" curves without some serious hacking about, especially if being pushed.
  12. Ahh the joys of poorly encoded string post events from client to server. Likely using SOAP to call the search engine but not properly encoding the payload. <sigh> I see this all the time.
  13. Not necessarily. Jason is a big collector of Countdown magazine. You can include most Gerry Anderson stuff in his interests. Sadly, most of that is licensed by Mattel, Sixteen12, and Corgi (aka Hornby)
  14. There has been a fair bit of chatter about this on the LT modelling Fecesbook group. Shill bidding, fake bids, and non-payers seem to be the norm. One chap put his on at a reasonable amount recently. It got bid up to stupid levels almost instantly, then sold to a non-payer. As TfL had a hard time selling off the last batch, it is doubtful they'd order another run from Bachmann. Shame really as LT modelling seems to be booming at the moment as something new and different.
  15. Once upon a time I started converting all my UK stock to Kadee. (1992 ish) I had a pair of 2+8 Lima HST sets as well as around 20 other coaches. (I had a full Canadian basement to play with) Bogie mounting the couplers was a disaster. While I could get closer coupling, they tended to bounce a bit on point work and come uncoupled if there was any jostling of the train. Pushing with bogie mounted couplers was not very reliable either. After that I moved everything to body mounted and had far fewer issues and much better reliability. I also found that adding weight to meet (plus a bit) the NMRA specs makes a big difference as well.
  16. For my old coaches I standardised on Kadee 31. Smaller rounded box which can be assembled in different ways to adjust the height and an underset longer shank to clear the buffers and raise the coupling head without resorting to cutting the coach body. For a shorter reach there is the 37.
  17. I'd double check the firmware in the Lenz unit. We had a few wobbles with LokSound 4 locos a couple of years ago at a Freemo meet where the loco was fine everywhere else but the Lenz. In our case it would run but none of the functions above 12 would work. The owner of the Lenz gear did a firmware update and all was fine. <your mileage may differ> You may also want to look at whether or not Railcom is active on either the Lenz or decoder.
  18. The only person I know that uses it, stocks up on trips to the US. Like you I tried once but had the order cancelled and never a reply to any emails. I've got several kg of Montana highway debris rock that we brought over as part of our gardening gear when we moved to the UK. I'm still crushing the first lump to get those nice reddish shards that look like the real thing.
  19. Just to be pedantic, if you are running prior to about 1995, American leased locos in Canada cannot be the lead loco. (radio compatibility, cab conditions mandated by unions, etc) There are still some restrictions but generally anything built or rebuilt since the mid 90s is ok. Which leads me to a potential modelling scenario. The border crossing. Where the locos would be changed over. I used to see this frequently at Coutts AB and Kingsgate BC.
  20. These are excellent books but are long out of print and getting hard to find. Don was basically a one man band and BRMNA books more or less died in 2004 when he did. Motor Books in London used to be the UK source for the range but....(long long story) Then again there may be some still hiding in the shop somewhere.
  21. Correct. You only need one loconet feed (B) from the DR5000. The rest can be daisy chained via your Diginet hub.
  22. Dan, trust me on this, you don't want to go down that particular rabbit hole. The subject comes up every so often and gets clubbed to death. was probably the closest anyone came to creating something that would work in the UK for UK modellers.
  23. Hi Dan. What you've shown is pretty much what is used at many UK Freemo meets. I've done the DCC and control for a few of them. You can safely drop the loconet T if you aren't using connected throttles. There is a fairly large Freemo (note yet another spelling) contingent in the UK, however the meets are all North American outline. As Nigel says: LnetB for everything apart from throttles (assuming you are using Digitrax throttles). the B contains rail-synch which is a low current track power. (outermost 2 pins on the RJ12 connector) This ensures the track signal reaches your boosters. You don't need to muck about with sniffers or anything else. Mixing boosters is slightly risky but can and is done. The trick is to ensure the output voltage of each booster is +-1v from the neighbouring booster. Digikeijs makes this easy with their boosters all being very close. (well the dozen or so I've had to hook up so far) Digitrax boosters allow for some tinkering with the HO/N/O switch and most have a trim pot inside the case. The other thing to consider is using optpo isolated boosters if possible.
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