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Everything posted by Spotlc

  1. Keith, firstly many thanks for your kind and generous comments! Now, before I describe the baseboard and enclosure, a little explanation is needed. You may have noticed that there are no cables or other visible means of controlling this model, and that is because it is entirely operated by radio control. The locomotives are battery powered using lithium polymer batteries which can be recharged from any 5 volt source, and controlled by a 2.4gHz receiver. The points and signal are also operated by radio controlled servo motors, as are the building and street lights, so I can si
  2. Jerry, thanks again. The motorbike & sidecar came from Autocraft: http://www.autocraft.plus.com/page2.html They make whitemetal kits of quite a few different motorbikes and scooters, as well as some lovely pre-war car kits. No connection, just a contented customer. They are not any specific make of motorbike, - the Panther 600 was a figment of my imagination! I never owned one, but a friend had one as a solo - it was a fearsome machine - kick starting a 600cc single cylinder needed very careful setting of the advance and retard lever to avoid serious injury to the ankle!
  3. Jerry, thanks for your kind words! The size of the baseboard is 1260 x 400mm, so by no means a micro layout, but still small enough to be got down two flights of narrow stairs! The size of the whole enclosure is 1300 x 430 x 400 high. I took quite a few pics while I was building this so I'll post some more with the descriptions. In real life, streets in older towns are rarely level or straight and I've tried to reflect this in the model. Here is a view looking down the lane towards the paper mill and brass foundry: George and Edna are returning from the shops on the P&M
  4. I have lurked on here for some time now and been very much inspired by many of the super little layouts featured, and I decided to return to model railways after a gap of more than forty years, during which much has changed! So here is New Prospect Lane, a small diorama now nearing completion, which I am building to explore some different methods of control and construction, with the emphasis on light weight and portability. The model is a small industrial scene somewhere in the south west Midlands, sometime in the mid/late 1950‘s, and is built in 1/76 scale. I've tried
  5. Spotlc

    Advice needed

    Many thanks for the useful link, I'm certain that it it will save me quite a lot of grief! I am pretty sure that I will go down the 14.2 path, the Atlas models seem to be nearer to 15mm, so clearances should not be too tight, and the outside frames of City of Truro could make things easier, although I'm not under any illusions about the problems involved in any of this! I've printed out a couple of my smaller Scalescenes buildings at 76% and they seem quite do-able, so that's another step in the right direction! Thanks again for the encouragement, Best, M
  6. Spotlc

    Advice needed

    Nigel, ah! some real encouragement here! Thanks for going to the trouble of asking around. I'm reasonably familiar with BPRC, having converted a number of 4mm locos, and built a small diorama completely battery operated and R/C controlled, including lights, points and signals, as well as the motive power, and for slow speed shunting it's magic! I don't have room for anything but diorama type models, so pulling power, starting traction and so on are not a worry, which is why I thought about the Polish gearmotors. They are really for driving model cars, but with a high reduction
  7. Spotlc

    Advice needed

    Thank you both for your interesting comments, at least you haven't said it's a totally mad idea! I can see that this would not be quite such a simple thing, but as I said, I've had an AE model of a Chapelon pacific for years, and I gradually came round to the idea that it could be a way into 1/100 scale. Although I live in France, nostalgia leads me towards British outline, so I have bought an AE model of City of Truro on eBay, and it's on it's way now. I have used N20 gearmotors in the past, but I thought they might be too big for 1/100, even with 14.2 track, which is why I loo
  8. Spotlc

    Advice needed

    This might seem like a silly question, but has anyone tried motorising one of the Atlas Editions locos? I ask because I am considering a small 3mm diorama, and I have had one of their Chapelon Nord pacifics for many years, which although not highly detailed, does seem to represent the original quite closely. Now, I was considering the AE model of City of Truro as a possible candidate, either as a motorised loco, or possibly with tender drive. The absence of outside valve gear makes either option a little easier. My previous efforts have centred on radio control/battery power
  9. Knocking off for the day! One of the fork lift drivers heads for home on the Matchless 500, passing the now stationary 08 and the 1945 built pannier tank, in the little yard at New Prospect Lane. This is a small diorama model built to explore the possibilities of radio control and battery operation, and as well as the locos, all the points, building, and overall lighting are controlled by radio. Power comes from various lithium polymer and Ni-mh batteries, and the model has an autonomy of about five hours before re-charging the lighting, much longer for the locos. It isn't fi
  10. Hi Luke, a nice little diorama with an unusual theme, which I've really enjoyed following! Now, about the whisky barrels. Almost all Scotch whisky is stored and aged in old oak barrels, even the current production may be placed in barrels more than twenty years old, often much more. Oak barrels have a long and interesting life - they may start by being made in France and used to store wines before bottling for one to three years, then transported to either Spain, for sherry, or to Portugal, for port wine production. There is also some use of Spanish oak barrels, made initially for storin
  11. Hi David, I don't have any experience of using Inkscape to output to a machine, but I stumbled across this site whilst looking for something else, and remembered your question: http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html Looks as if it might do the trick - the link to the download is at the end of the article, Regards, Mike
  12. Not sure where the pictures went!
  13. Not strictly true, you are confusing a ledged and braced door design with a diagonally braced horizontal gate. Although the braces of a vertically hung door do indeed point inwards from the top of the shutting stile to the hanging stile, and are therefore in compression, a crossing gate is a very different thing. Here, the wooden braces are diagonal, and serve only to ensure the dimensional integrity of the gate - the weight of the gate is carried at the hanging stile by massive cast iron hinges, and at the shutting stile by a wrought iron bar which runs from there, back to either the to
  14. Hi John, I've also drawn a blank when sourcing very tiny switches for BPRC, and I've got round this when using a PP3, by making up a battery holder where the battery can be easily removed, becoming, in effect the switch. This also obviates the need for the normal clasp type terminals for these batteries, which are needlessly large. I folded up a simple cradle from 22G sheet steel and fitted a bit of paxolin with two terminals turned up from brass rod, behind which is a 3mm pad of closed cell foam, which acts as an insulator and also provides the slight pressure on the battery, ne
  15. An interesting project, not without it's challenges! If I were doing this I think I'd look carefully at the possibility of using the lens advance/focussing mechanism from a small defunct digital camera - something like an old Canon Ixus V2 is very tiny, and all the mechanics have been done for you, although working out how to control it might be interesting! Space might be another problem! There are still a few vestiges of the TC metre gauge line visible in Tulle station, or at least there were when I was last there, a couple of years ago, and further north, the metre gauge Chemin de
  16. Surprisingly, Amazon UK have some tiny DPDT latching switches, they are 7x7mm, and about 12mm total height including pins, but it's possible to cut the long push button down by about 3mm, as well as the pins, so you might have room. £1.93 for 55, post free. (They don't have any mounting arrangement, intended for pcb mount). They have lots of options if you search for "micro PB switch". https://www.amazon.co.uk/Push-Button-Switch-Self-locking-Switches/dp/B01G6P1G8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506027268&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+push+button+latching+switch Mike
  17. Corbs, how right you are! (1) I know scale speeds have been endlessly discussed elsewhere, but taking a Gronk as an example, they mostly had a top speed of 15mph, which in 1/76 translates to travelling 24 inches in 7 seconds; at a shunter's brisk walking pace, say 5mph, it would take a 1/76 train 21 seconds to travel 24 inches, and at a coupling speed of 1mph, it needs 8 seconds to travel 2 inches. Compare this to the absurd speeds often seen at exhibitions ! BPRC makes these speeds possible, given a good quality motor and a sensible gear ratio, like nothing else I've found. (2) I do
  18. John, happy to hear that my plodding efforts have led you to what I'm sure will be more imaginative solutions, and I'm grateful for your links to cheaper sources of voltage steppers - I must not wave the credit card around with such abandon! I thought very carefully about using a separate vehicle for the batteries, and the only practical arguments against were the obvious one of space in a small layout, and my inability to find some really small polarised connectors that were robust enough to stand repeated use. The plus side is that the loco doesn't need too much butchering, and q
  19. The hobby seems to have changed from railway modelling to railway buying. Absolutely agree ! Sadly, this is part of a much wider commercialisation of peoples enthusiasms - it also happens in many other fields of interest - photography, sport, even cooking! However, like you, I also take heart in the idea that BPRC is for now anti- establishment, but no doubt the accountants have an eye on things, and I'm sure it will be commercialised at some point. I don't have your knowledge or skills with electronics, so I am happy to shell out for materially functioning devices that I can put toget
  20. Ok, I 've got it now! ;-(
  21. Click "Reply quoting this post" at the bottom of the message you want to reply to. You can edit out the parts of the quote you want to exclude. Or click on the switch in the top left corner of the editor toolbar, and you can edit the code, which is what I did to split it into two quotes. Brilliant! Many thanks. This is the link to the eBay seller of OKCells: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-OKcell-9V-800mAh-USB-Rechargeable-Lipo-Battery-For-RC-Helicopter-Microphone/311905487080?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The Pololus I use are adjustable output via a
  22. I thought of using a 9v battery, but whatever voltage I use needs to be stepped up or down somewhere. You are much more ambitious than me! I only have a single 00 gauge shunting layout, lamentably incomplete, which started out as DCC, but one of the neighbours kids managed to terminate the controller, and since I was fairly underwhelmed by the whole DCC thing, and the cost of a new controller was prohibitive, it remained untouched for many months, until I stumbled across the DT site. I bought a receiver and transmitter from Micron last year, and haven't looked back since! You might like to h
  23. Look what you've started! After seeing your first post, it suddenly dawned on me that the quickest way to get a few RC locos running, would be to stick the batteries and electronics in a van, and just attach two wires and a connector to each loco, so I can couple the van to whichever loco I want to run. Then I can do the loco conversions gradually. Bravo, John! This is a quick way to get things moving, especially with tank engines where there really isn't enough room for a decent battery pack, drive unit and an Rx. I built this as a test bed for ideas, and it's by no means finished. My kno
  24. Some interesting comments here, - I like otherplanet's pole loco, I hope it is intended to run on "standard gauge" logs ! I think that standards for R/C trains are only important if you hope to be able to buy one RTR out of the box, as I am certain will happen in the future, but I am also certain that the arrival of R/C for miniature railways will come to be seen as the defining moment, when the many annoying compromises needed by track power, either DC or DCC, were finally conquered. Meanwhile, I am happy to play around with ideas, and here are some more pictures of "Romulus and Remus", the
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