Harlequin
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Posts posted by Harlequin
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12 hours ago, chuffinghell said:
It’s just bugging me because I’m not a fan of technology at the best of times so anything different than normal worries me (because I don’t understand it
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Hi Chris,
I had that RMWeb consent warning too once recently - but only once. I'm not sure what changed.
It's shown because of the cookies that RMWeb stores in your browser, or tries to store at least. A Cookie is just a little bit of info about you that the website can pick up whenever you visit it.
In this case I think RMWeb is trying to store a cookie on your Safari browser, to remember that you've said it's OK to store cookies (and so not ask you again) but Safari is refusing to store the cookie...
Confused?
Whether Safari blocks cookies is a setting you can change and there's another related setting called "Do not track me", I think. I'll have a dig around and tell you more later.
Later: In the IOS settings app scroll to Safari and then scroll to "Privacy and Security". If "Block All Cookies" is on you could try turning it off. If "Prevent Cross-Site Tracking" is on you could try turning that off too (but it's ON for me on my iPad and I'm not prompted every visit). If Block all cookies was already off then the problem is more complicated...
Edit: Thinking about it, it might be more complicated - but it's still worth checking the "Block all cookies" setting first.
Edit2: Andy has more info:
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1 hour ago, gordon s said:
Just going back to the OP, I’m still not sure if there is any insulation between the ceiling joists in the loft. Apologies if I missed it.
I cannot believe in these days of climate change and demands for top quality insulation in houses that a one year old property has such condensation issues. Whether the design is hot or cold, surely there must be an insulation barrier somewhere in the design.
29 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:I think it's generally called the loft hatch.
Mike.
I think Gordon means an insulation layer somewhere between the warm habitable rooms and the outside.
I think you can see rockwool between the "joists" in the OP's first photo - so the expected insulation layer is present.
We can't really know why the OP has that level of condensation because we don't have all the info. He needs to get professional advice from someone who can perform a site visit.
And talking of climate change: When I said above that heating or dehumidifying (or cooling) an uninsulated space is unsustainable I could have said, irresponsible...!
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More photos (two sides of the same lamp) can be found here: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/gwr-illuminated-stop-board-limit-273548555
GWR Signalling Practice says Stop lamps were used for unmanned crossings (no mention of them being used in yards) and that the front face was 8in by 24in.
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I like it!
There is very much an implied backscene. Are you going actually build one in the traditional way? If so, remember to leave room to round the corners to avoid "corners in the sky". And maybe think about how the roads exit the scene at the back - you've nearly got them all covered already so it would only take a bit of tweaking to hide them, I think. (Assuming you don't want to try to paint perspective roads disappearing into the distance...)
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9 minutes ago, boxbrownie said:
Because getting a dremmel absolutely square on when cutting quite deeply is difficult when there is a limit on the diameter of cutting disc you can use, the nano blade looked interesting because it can go deeper and easier to keep square with obstructions around.
I have a dremmel and tried a sample cut and certain areas will be nigh on impossible to get a deep square cut because of the relatively large motor/handle that lays flat across the layout with your hands wrapped around it.
I am not saying the dremmel is crap, I was looking for a better alternative
https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-right-angle-attachment-575-v224
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Do you know what the tooth pitch is and what the cut width is? (I looked but couldn't quickly find the info.)
Those will be very important factors for cutting the small items us modellers use, like rails.
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Hi Simon, Your loft was clearly not designed to be a habitable space, so if you want to use it as a railway room, I.e. inhabit it for more than an hour or so at a time, you need to do the work to make it habitable first. That needs professional input to do it correctly and safely.
Heating and/or dehumidifying an uninsulated space is not sustainable.
The forest of truss timbers is another problem for a model railway.
Sorry.
I hope you can find a better solution.
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Thanks for the suggestions on transferring the plan everyone. I like the pin-based methods because if you're making a hole anyway it seems simpler to just use the hole-maker as the marker and avoid the extra process of making marks separately.
So I will try pinning the track on top of the plan, using small headed nails around the outside of the parts, then I can lift the track off, lift/tear the paper plan off and put the track back down in exactly the same place (In theory).
That's actually more or less how I positioned the track for my test oval but without the paper. Strange that the method didn't occur to me yesterday!
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11 hours ago, Pacific231G said:
Hi Phil
I noticed a reference to copper clad sleepers. Do ues that mean you're handbuilding the track or is that just for the board ends. If it is going to be hadbuilt what are the crossing angles?
No, just the board ends.
Part of the raison-d'etre for this layout is to make something close to what CJF imagined - so commercial track parts.
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19 hours ago, Nearholmer said:
Is the mouse-hole at the end definitely big enough to clear you stock?
Yes... It was before I moved the plan south a bit. I think it's still OK but a little bit of shaving might be needed!
19 hours ago, Nearholmer said:For marking-out, how about a map pins on the sleeper-end line, say every 20mm, then remove the paper plan?
Anyway, its looking very neat and solid, and a coat of regulation grey primer is always a positive - I get through gallons of the stuff.
Thanks. Actually I used a special "stick-to-anything" paint designed for kitchen units. Wierd gloopy stuff that had to be recoated between 6 and 12 hours after the previous coat. I ignored that instruction...
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Argh! Should have been "Kate Aldridge", of course... But she has Archer genes.
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There has been some more progress, at last!
I was hoping to get some track laid over the Christmas holidays but I don't think that's going to happen now - not least because I haven't got one of the turnouts I need.
I have painted the boxes to seal the timber, fixed 3mm cork over the entire scenic area, and printed out my design full size. (I moved the plan 5mm away from the back to allow the retaining wall to have some depth.) So far so good:
Where the platform tracks will cross the board join I have glued in sections of solid board (from the back of an old bathroom cabinet) and super-glued sleeper-sized copper strips onto them.
The copper strips lie just under rail bottom level of Streamline flexitrack and are the same spacing so once the flex sleepers are removed and the rails are soldered to the copper, painted and ballasted hopefully the change in sleeper construction won't be so visible!
I had to position the copperclad sleepers quite carefully because there's not much room to adjust sleeper spacing between the baseboard joint and the nearby turnouts. I did that by laying some Streamline track onto my full-size plan and then punching through the plan with a scribe to mark the positions on the board below. That worked here but it doesn't work very well on the cork - it just heals up.
So I'm pondering how to transfer the rest of the design onto the cork below. I don't want to glue the paper plan down because it won't stay flat and it might weaken the track fixing.
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13 minutes ago, RobinofLoxley said:
Joseph states that he is going to operate in a very specific way. Of course it has implications for the layout design, because a large multi line multi train layout would be very hard to run this way. My guess is that he is going for long runs through scenery - it could even be a single track line.
They are intertwined to some extent, of course, but the question is about layout design.
So I think we should consider operation to be subservient to the layout design, for now at least. Joseph may find that his proposed operating method doesn't suit the layout he wants and that could cause one or both to change - but that's for later.
To put it another way: If you want to model Kirkby Stephen, you're not going to seriously compromise the trackplan to accommodate the method of operation. You'll adapt the operating methods to make Kirkby Stephen work!
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2: Kate Archer => Tracy Horobin (still on collision course with Oliver so maybe about to go up in the world again?)
Edit: Although she has now lured Jazzer into a trap and snogged him, which complicates things.
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Joseph clearly stated the answers to the first three points in the OP. All within one para, in fact.
OO means RTR so stock creation/acquisition won’t be difficult - in terms of time, at least.
Control method shouldn’t affect the basic layout design in a major way.
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It's probably a good idea to have some storage, workshop space and tea-making facilities(!) on the same floor as the layout so that you don't always have to go downstairs and back up again when you need such things...
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Hey, it just occurred to me that this situation is a bit like that TV programme, "Your House Made Perfect", where the homeowners are shown concepts for re-doing their house using Virtual Reality headsets.
The competing concepts are practical and radical in varying degrees and you can never predict which the homeowners will choose. (I usually like the radical ideas from the cool hippy architect, even though they can be a bit bonkers sometimes.)
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26 minutes ago, melmerby said:
No doubt cribbed from RCTS part nine.
12 minutes ago, melmerby said:The information was already in print, in what's considered the definitive works. Why does anyone need to do that bit again?
I thought that was how most information rich books come about these days, collating the information from various already published works.
I can't see there is anything wrong in doing that.
It's a good book that collects information together in a very accessible form, including new material (the author's personal experience of many of the classes) and notes about which are preserved where.
The RCTS publications are listed in the Bibliography (as Clearwater pointed out to me.)
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My first idea is to use the space to do something really panoramic using two of the walls and one of the "lobes" of the room. The other "lobe" would be devoted to all the support facilities, storage, reversing, workbench, kitchenette (what a lovely word...), boxes full of stuff, etc.
Like James I too suggest bridging the stairwell with simple double track (boxed in, close to the wall) so that trains can simply run around the room without reversing and/or get back to storage without having to appear on scene again.
I also suggest not fixing the main scenic area to the walls but having it freestanding with a usable access space behind, maybe 768mm wide. This would do a lot of good things:
- Access from both sides allows the scenic baseboards to be wider than most people can manage. (You have the room so why not use it?)
- Moves the layout clear of the mansard slopes.
- Backscene can hang from ceiling (cloth or vinyl) some distance behind the scenic baseboards allowing clever lighting and thus avoiding the problem of shadows of scenic elements being cast on the background.
- Vastly increases the photographic potential.
(I like some of the suggestions above about modular design and movable reversing loops as the layout expands, BTW.)
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1 hour ago, Neal Ball said:
There have been various comments about outside steam pipes throughout the thread. People refer to a book, to shew when these were fitted etc.
Can someone advise which book they are talking about please.
A few moguls were based at Reading in the 1930’s and I intend to renumber mine to suit. But need the correct reference.
Thanks, Neal.
Hi Neal,
The book that Clearwater and I were referring to is, "Great Western Moguls & Prairies" by David Maidment, published by Pen & Sword.
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My brand new Lode Star has a lump in it's motion (cue Mr Williams). Every few revolutions of the drivers it goes "clunk clunk", the sound of the wheels bashing the track.
I've stripped it down and eliminated everything but the last two gears in the gear train* - the one on the driver axle and the one above it. I've examined the teeth on both and I can't see any that look different from any others. There are no bits of moulding scarf on the gears, which is what I was half expecting to find. When I move the chassis by hand with the motor disengaged from the gear train I can feel it jumping up at regular places as if riding over a lump on the track. The track is fine and just to make sure I've slid the chassis to another area of track where the same "lump" can still be felt in the same positions.
So my only conclusion is that both those gears are very slightly off-centre on their axles and when the off-centres line up the driver axle is pushed away (it can move because the plastic keeper plate can flex).
What do you think? Is that a reasonable diagnosis? Is this a known problem? Can you suggest a fix to get it to run smoothly?
(* I think I've eliminated everything but the gears.)
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It's plan No. 43, "Electric Heaven", from the Peco "Compendium of Model Railway Track Plans".
It is OO. Size is 15ft 9in by 9ft 6in overall with a double-track circuit of the entire room and the part shown here is the high level terminus which sits 4 inches above a large hidden fiddle yard...
The idea is it can cope with Southern Region EMU sets ranging from 2 to 10 cars.
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Yes, Longdown fits for Photo 12. On this page, search for Longdown (it's near the bottom):
http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/teign-valley-branch.html
You will see a photo of Longdown Signal Box taken from the opposite angle. The building and the surrounding features seem to match up.
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Very interesting... It certainly makes a change from the usual fare on here!
Here's a plan with a 305mm grid to allow for comparison with other plans. (The space is roughly 36ft square for those who still think in Imperial.)
(Scaled up from 4mm to actual size that would be roughly 838m / 915 yards square.)
Do the stairs rise towards the centre of the space or towards one of the walls?
Do the mansard roof slopes mean you can't stand upright near the walls in places? Would they impose restrictions on the height of the baseboards or height of backscenes anywhere?
This space is going to take a lot of time, effort and money to fill! Will you be working on it alone or will you get helpers/workers in?
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Confused?
Warren Branch
in Layout topics
Posted
Windows 10 is beautiful and a vast improvement on earlier versions, IF it's setup with a normal desktop (task bar, icons, start menu, etc.) and not that stupid tiled touch-screen interface...