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  1. We don't have Tesco in Sydney, Australia. :-(
  2. I've been eager to go back to England some time to have another pint of Spitfire and Flying Scotsman. I hear that Jaipur is a popular one too.
  3. Eagerly anticipating these coaches. Lots of O gauge projects held up by some silly disease named after a beer...
  4. *BUMP* Any word on these coaches? I would really love to get my hands on a few.
  5. I really like that coffee-pot. Might have to dig up that project box of mine and get a crack on with building my own!
  6. Graeme 1. Yes, i intend to build it as an exhibition layout, partly because I don't have a space where it can be permanently erected. 2. I would hand-build the track, but I already have a stock-pile of Peco Code 124. Then again, I also have a stock pile of plain track built on a balsa base. I have generally built my plain track to 31.5mm gauge to improve the running characteristics for several years now. 3. 1m is an unusual size. I decided upon it because they would be much easier to fit into my little Kia Rio hatchback. It also means that I will have lots of handy offcuts of the baseboard materials for various purposes.
  7. The D wagon kits were designed to be able to represent most variations from about 1890 through to the 1950s - by which time most were in non-revenue service. I've been referring to prototype photos with known dates where possible, but the "D" wagon has over a dozen different diagrams and it is hard to pin down all the details exactly. The 2-plank type were a bit of an unexpected bonus as the main body was more-or-less the same as an existing wagon in the range. The main project is the 3-plank wagon, and there are plans to do a 4-plank version as well.
  8. If you're going to junk the 4.75mm plywood top anyway, you can get the track off easily by pouring boiling water straight from the kettle onto the track. I've had no ill effects so far on Peco track from doing this.
  9. Peco O gauge track is sturdy and works well. It looks great once ballasted, and given the surface rust treatment. If memory serves me, I used a Tamiya brown (Mission Brown?) for rust colour. You may also want to use some sort of grey paint for the sleepers. It isn't true bullhead rail, but unless you are very particular about your track and reproducing a certain company's perway practices, or want a very specific odd geometry (asymmetrical 3-way point for example) I wouldn't worry too much about it. 7mm Finescale standard is perfectly servicable, and for the most part you won't need to fit springing or compensation on your wagons. Anything with a wheelbase more than a scale 10ft would benefit from simple 3-point compensation. Locomotive choices are limited compared to 4mm scale, but you don't need a huge fleet. A lot of O gauge modellers have a handful of locomotives, a few coaches and perhaps 20-30 wagons which they slowly collect over time - mostly kit-built.
  10. Whilst not close prototypically, I think you can do a fairly passable No. 1 "Thomas" based on the Dapol Jinty. I cite two precedents: 1. The Rev. W.V. Awdry himself used a Triang Jinty for one iteration of Thomas for his own layout and; 2. At least one Jinty has done a stint dressed up thus in preservation.
  11. We want details. I've been wondering if it is possible for a long time.
  12. Where did you get those stirrers? I've never been able to track them down. They happen to be about right for doing industrial railway tracks with code 100 rail in O gauge.
  13. A new version of the plan. I decided that I could get a better layout from four 1,000 x 600mm scenic baseboards. It is only 400mm longer than the previous design, but I think gives a more favourable overall span. Lengths are compressed slightly - around 80-90% of scale size. Modelling trains from the era 1902-1905, the orders were that the Manning Wardle locomotives were allowed 3x four-wheel goods vehicles plus the KA type tramcar carriage on the down journey and the up was allows 4x four-wheel goods vehicles. The length of the station platform road will more than accommodate the maximum train size for this era. Not shown on this diagram is the road bridge which will hide the exit to fiddle yard, but also that there were large embankments at that end. The dead-end of the line is comparatively sparse and I may have to concoct some scenis features for that part of the layout in order for it to work scenically. Just to put it into perspective, a fully laden down train will be just 830mm long and a fully laden up train 970mm long.
  14. I find a lot of vans get "side suck" where the sides curve inwards after a few years. I started putting 6.4x3.2mm styrene strips on the inside of the van and a couple of cross-struts, usually one either side of the doors. This gives a bit of extra structural rigidity to the body and prevents the sides from bowing inwards over time.
  15. You can get sprung W-irons as an add-on kit. Slaters sell them. There are also a few 3rd party suppliers.
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