Titanius Anglesmith

Greetings All, My OO gauge layout in progress is set on the LMS in the late 20s / early 30s. My terminal station has an island platform and I want to build a balanced two-doll signal to act as the platform starters. Space is a little constricted for separate posts and there are numerous precedents for using a balanced bracket instead. In addition to the "main" route from each platform to the Up line, there is also a shunt move into a siding that trails into the down line. As this shunt move is contrary to the normal running direction, I understand that it should be signalled via a separate ground signal next to the main post, rather than an elevated miniature arm? Can anyone offer some pointers on where to start please? I am aware that Wizard / MSE sell etches, but not being overly familiar with signal post anatomy I'm not sure what I need. Besides which it appears that some of the etches I might need are out of stock. Also I've never worked with etched brass before, although I'm willing to have a go. Alternatively there's the Ratio LMS upper-quadrant bracket plastic kit, but I'd much prefer to have Midland lower-quadrants. Can anyone give me any tips please? Thanks in advance.

The refuge could double as a coal siding, as it did at Tilbury Dock (which admittedly is nowhere near Yorkshire, but it was on the Midland at least)

I was thinking about this recently.... there’s at least two LOS boards I can think of on LU that are approached in the facing direction on the main running line. Admittedly we sometimes do things a little differently on LU....

The existing ground signal is fine, provided that the one signal can read over the three routes (route 1 into the goods, 2 over the crossover and 3 into the refuge). Or it should be three stacked signals in the one location (I’m not sure what Midland practice was regarding stacked signals). It would probably be better placed in the cess rather than the six foot though. Or omit the ground signal entirely! The Midland often never had fixed signals at crossovers or entering sidings.

Agreed. I’d also say the middle stop signal on the down line just before the bridge could also go.

I wouldn’t worry about it too much

Depends on the layout, unless I’ve misunderstood you? A track layout with two fast lines and two local lines would have two “six foots” and one “ten foot”, but as already mentioned the ten foot doesn’t have to be any wider than the six foot. There are lots of locations where three or more lines are equally spaced.

Not necessarily, there are lots of places where the ten foot is less than 10ft, or the six foot is greater than 6ft. It’s more a label than a rule (but if it can be accommodated I agree it would look good)

You are absolutely right, I did mean platform 2 and crossover 12. When you say 11, do you mean the other end of the slip? The numbers on the drawing aren’t very clear (at least not to me), but it looks to me like 11 is the trap points on the up siding (loco release). I can’t make out the number on the slip. In any case, yes I’ve interlocked both ends of the slip.

^^^^ all very good points!

The polarity of the L/H crossing is set by the R/H switch rail position, and vice versa (obviously). In a true model of Bromley North, the r/h slip would have to be in the reverse position in order to give the correct polarity on the l/h crossing when the l/h slip is also reversed. In the real world conventional interlocking will not allow both ends to be reversed at the same time (or rather there’s no logical reason for doing so). The easiest way for me to satisfy the interlocking was to “flip” the normal and reverse positions of the r/h slip. (I’ve just realised I’ve been using the word “polarity” rather erroneously, but I’m sure you all know what I meant)

Position C would be a convenient location for exchanging the single-line staff/token/tablet.

My layout is loosely based on Bromley North which has this unusual slip arrangement: (diagram from the S-R-S website - https://www.s-r-s.org.uk/html/sra/R1633.htm ) The normal lay of the right-hand end of the slip is for the straight route into Platform 1. Unfortunately this sets the wrong polarity for the left-hand crossing when the crossover is reversed (plat 1 to up line). On my layout I’ve got around this by making the normal lay of the R/H slip the other way, towards platform 2 (the home signals are equal height suggesting that both routes have equal status anyway). There were other ways of fixing the problem but this was the easiest for me to implement.

It depends how you’re using the slip, but a polarity issue can exist, as I recently learnt the hard way. Let’s say the switch toes at end A control the crossing polarity at end B. Therefore end A has to be in the appropriate position to give the correct polarity at crossing B, even for a train traversing the straight route through B (which therefore doesn’t touch the switch rails at A and otherwise wouldn’t care what position they’re in). This would probably be easier to explain with the aid of a diagram. When the slip is used in its most typical layout as part of a crossover this issue doesn’t arise, but it does when used in other more unusual formations.

I’ve just had one of these microswitches fail after not much use. Two steps forward, one step back... edit: turns out it was operator error, the switch was fine

I am pleased to announce that the flyback diodes across the peco solenoids has done the trick. Thank you all for your help

That’s more than a malfunction, that’s an irregularity!

When I moved into my current house I found something similar in my bathroom.....

+1. I don’t think my meter’s touched my layout yet, but my continuity tester (built when I was an apprentice!) has been on overtime. SWMBO is getting a bit fed up of hearing the beep beeeep beeeeeeeep though...

I’ve just found some IN4004s in my stash so I’m going to trial those on one of the problematic sets. I suspect AndyID is right about it being coupling via the loom, but it’s easier to solder in a pair of diodes than untangle the wire tree.

My OCD will not be pleased Thanks

Those are the very ones that I am using Once the layout starts taking shape I'd like to build some working semaphores, I'll definitely consider using servos for those. Thanks all for the replies so far

Yes they are are the typical boards seen on Amazon etc, though not an “arduino shield” (is that the right term?) that plugs straight into the arduino header pins. The boards are powered from an external regulated PSU, although the PSU is shared with the arduino. Could you explain the benefit in this application please? Thanks

Veering off topic, but a thought occurs (dangerous, I know).... As I am using an Arduino already, would I have saved myself a lot of trouble had I just learnt how to use servos??

I don’t, I’ll give that a try. What rating should I use?