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  1. Two coats of Testors Dullcote later... Not a perfect finish, but hopefully weathering will cover the mistakes
  2. Railtec Transfers applied. Not without incident and strong language. The first one went on a treat which is always a bad thing for me The rest were reassuringly fiddly for my massive hands and dodgy eyesight.
  3. Hello, I was just reading through this blog again and noticed your question from waaaaay back. Apologies for not replying sooner. I have just looked on Fox Transfers site and it looks like name plates went from Black to Red when BR Blue livery came in, and then Odin went back to black when it was renumbered to 47 842 (is that a RES number? Not sure). Hope this helps. Cheers.
  4. Thanks. Believe it or not, I have a HND in Electrical and Electronic Engineering, but I got that over 30 years ago and have not had much need for it until I started building the layout about 18 months ago. I will look into these switches. Thanks again.
  5. So in this picture, was the tab part of the blue bodyshell above (in the picture, so below in normal use) the door glazing ?
  6. Thanks for the comprehensive information on the shunt signal. I am quite partial to a feather signal but I suspect it would not be prototypically correct, bearing in mind the next 'signal' on the diverging route (if it were visible and not beyond the scenic break girder bridge ) would the red light on the buffer stop?
  7. Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it . When I had the 47 reblown, I was given advice on how to make the factory fitted speaker enclosure airtight with blu-tak. I had that much hassle taking off and refitting the bodyshell that I swore I would never do it again. The cabside windows fell out and are still missing on the non-viewing side of the loco. One is now in the loco box, waiting for when I am brave enough to have a go at refitting it, and I think/hope the other is still inside one of the cabs When I first got the 25, I was curious as to why the directional lighting didn't work. According to an online database, it should have it. I got the bodyshell off but managed to break, or I suspect re-break, a couple of wires from the decoder which had been twisted back together. Luckily my soldering has improved enough to get everything working again. IIRC the 25 wasn't as bad to get back together, but I don't know where you would put a speaker? Also it's an 8-pin decoder if that makes a difference to the Howes system I could use? And after all that, there are no lights fitted to the 25
  8. I was determined to get the track weathering finished so I could get back to running trains again. I had a cheeky shunt last night before adding the dark coat and I did start to feel really happy with how the layout is coming along (see the videos). I have got to the point where I am happy enough to thin and mix the paint directly in the airbrush cup. I have wasted so much paint by mixing in plastic cups (recycled takeaway curry mint sauce pots) as the thick paint likes to stick to the plastic - that's it's job, after all. Also, I reckon that I am not far off a 50:50 paint to thinners ratio. It does mean that I am only getting a very thin coat, but at least it's coming out of the airbrush and it allows me to build up as much as I want, plus the cleaning was a lot easier. I have cracked on today and done the roof dirt coat down the centre of the tracks. I have given it some extra coats where locos stand - I will add some oil stains at some point. I even felt happy enough to use the airbrush on some stock. I masked up and tidied up the rooflines on my resprayed GUV and the CCT on which I hand painted the roof. I am quite pleased with how the track is looking now.
  9. Thanks a lot for the kind words. I capture everything on my phone which is a Samsung Galaxy S5 Neo. It is nothing special and, of the five phones in our household, it probably has the lowest quality camera, but it does what I need it to do. The 47 was reblown from factory fitted to Legomanbiffo v4. I had it done at Doncaster show just before lockdown. It is a very good piece of kit. The drivelock and the working brake are great for a shunting layout. At £24 for a reblow, I would recommend it to anyone. I would like to get all my locos sound fitted but it would cost £150 to fit in the Class 25, which is almost twice what I paid for the loco in the first place I was going to get it fitted with my birthday money, but I bought the airbrush instead. Probably the better choice. I can only see dcc sound getting better quality as time progresses, so I am happy to wait a bit longer. Thanks again for the kind words.
  10. I'm at a point in my layout construction where I am starting to think about signalling. It's an 80s BR Blue era shunting layout with trains arriving and departing via a single line from the off-scene main line. Trains in the arrival/departure 'kickback' siding can either return to the main line or take the diverging route of a turnout which leads to the yard reception siding. I am planning on having two signals protecting this turnout: a 2-aspect colour light which allows access back to the main line; and a ground signal which allows access into the Yyard. Bearing in mind that both lights can be red at the same time, but only one can be green/white, could I use a single 3-pole centre-off switch to control these signals? I am thinking the central position could be 'both red', switch up for 'clear to main' and switch down for 'clear to yard' ? I realise that I could spend a couple of quid and just by two switches, but I seem to like making things difficult for myself on this layout build. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  11. I am contemplating doing that. I was thinking about getting a static grass applicator, but if I bought one I would probably end up overdoing the effect just to justify the purchase
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