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    : In the garage or on the sofa, Lancashire Coast

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  1. Would this one be any good ? https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-plastic-steel-mitre-box/1798070_BQ.prd
  2. I've used a couple of 5ft LED battens that I have suspended on chains so I can alter the height if necessary to prevent shadows over the layout.
  3. You may need to swap the two LEDs to get the sync right, but once right just remember which colour goes into the reverse output, also use the same output on the controller. MalcT
  4. Hi Gordon, Why only one output on the Mimic Controller ? Using the two and the MY3 on one solves the problem. That's how mine are set up. Alternatively you could use the DCC Concepts DCD-MMA3 connector for the additional LEDs. You will need to use a connecting lead between the two - suggest DCD ME6.150. I've also used several of these, very useful MalcT
  5. An update on my docks area. I've built the Kibri Container Gantry Crane and after laying the concrete hardstanding added the crane's running rails and placed in layout: Still a lot of work to do in this area
  6. I placed an online order on Friday which I received on Monday - Excellent service.
  7. Have a look at this, page 7 covers 3-way points: https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/dcc-advice-11-wiring-pointwork-and-special-track-conditions-for-dc-or-dcc/ Malc
  8. I used 2mm grey board with small pieces for supports and glued brick paper and a platform surface to mine.
  9. Hi Dan, I built this model as my first venture into card model building. Use a good card to stick the sheets to, I used a Pritt Stick for the sheets and Rocket Card Glue for joining the pieces together. The instructions are fairly easy to follow, but always read 2 or 3 instructions ahead to see what you need to do next. Make sure you get the first few pieces to fit together correctly, makes the remainder easier to fit. Mine took about 40 hours in total to build but I was really pleased with the final result: Building the bridge was a little tedious; Malc
  10. The Cobalt P Digital requires track power to switch the frog polarity. I have all mine powered by a separate accessory bus using switches 1 and 2. You then use switches 4 and 5 with feeds from the track (or track bus) and switch 6 for the frog polarity. A short occurring (i.e wrongly set point) will only affect the track bus, not the accessory bus, hence the reason why no circuit breaker is needed on the accessory bus.
  11. I too use Excel spreadsheets for the same reasons and have one listing all the wiring by colours / switch number etc for the LED lighting all printed and in a folder under the layout for quick reference.
  12. Hi Stephen, This may be of some use, page 8 refers to wiring double slips: https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/dcc-advice-11-wiring-pointwork-and-special-track-conditions-for-dc-or-dcc/ Malc
  13. I'm fairly new to all this, but wouldn't the best bet be the SB5 5amp NCE Smart Booster ?
  14. I chose the NCE Powercab over the Gaugemaster Prodigy as my DCC Starter controller. Being about £100 less was also a factor. You can always add the SB5 booster at a later date for additional 5amp power. It's easy to use and the support website is good too.
  15. Have a look at this site for machinery items; https://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/oo-scale-products/oo-gauge-kits#/sort=p.sort_order/order=ASC/limit=16/page=5 Malc
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