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  1. So for information, nope.... One 16v supply cannot run two co-acting PL10 controlled points! Next up, CDU....
  2. Thanks Harlequin, and apologies for the lack of track plan. I keep meaning to draw it up but time is not on my side! The original intent was for a third loop on the bridge though I talked him out of it as he needs the space for sidings on the scenic side. Plus the loop would have to be 1st radius given the bend so not much other than Smokey Joe would get round it. He still occasionally mentions it though so we may yet try it before the scenery goes in. I should have included the photos below as well. They show the other side of the layout. This was originally destined to be a
  3. Thanks for the link Shanghai Driver! As it happens the “overpass” is for a DMU which doesn’t fit with the rest of the steam stock so it’s a fictional addition to something which is meant to be a model of Millom station in Cumbria (if the town had prospered and grown sufficiently to attract mainline stock and express passenger locos). Long story short it’s very steep and not connected to the main layout, so we’ve never tried anything but the DMU on it. I can give some of the others a run and let you know...?
  4. Some amazing input there, thank you. yes it’s the metal wheels (the 6 part of the 4-6-2) which have come loose. I suspected age initially but two second hand locos and one owned-since-new, never raced nor rallied low miler have suffered the same fate within weeks of each other. Having studied the issue in more detail I’m now convinced that the problem is the transition between the boards and the bridge over the door. I’m just not talented enough to get it smooth so they’re crashing over it with jarring force. last time I was up there I moved to copper clad p
  5. Thanks, its on zero transitions Direct from straight into set-track second radius. The whole aim was to get the corners done in the shortest space to make the scenic area larger.
  6. Morning all, Big problem here and I’m worried it relates to the space available. I’m trying to sort my Dad an OO gauge in his shed. We’ve got two loops and a fiddle yard up and running, with a branch at high level for a DMU. The track works fine, but because it’s two loops in a shed some of the bends are tighter than I’m happy with. One Corner is quite an open bend in flexi track but the other three are second radius to give enough space for the scenic area. Some locos are really suffering. His old Coronation Class locos in particular are litera
  7. Next question! The attached picture shows the 16v outlet on the controller. Any idea what sort of connector I use for these? Thanks! Alan
  8. Thanks everyone! Really useful input. I’ll confirm the equipment he already has and come back with any further questions but I think that’s all I needed. Cheers!
  9. Thanks for that, really helpful! I didn’t realise CDUs were optional - from what I’ve watched / read they seem to be viewed as necessary. I noticed some on eBay for £8? Would they be a worthwhile investment for reliability’s sake? It’s only these two points at the moment so not large outlay. Thanks again.
  10. Hello all, back working on my Dad’s layout again now that shielding is behind us and I can access the garden shed. He owns two point motors (type TBC but understood to be peco solenoids with three electrical connectors on each motor), similar to this; https://rover.ebay.co.uk/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F2254439604%3Fiid%3D322185995730 He wants them co-acting via a single toggle switch. The aim is to automate a run-around siding so a coronation class loco can drop coaches and make its way back onto the layout before they’re col
  11. Brilliant responses - thanks everyone. I’m going to put together a shopping list, find some products and will post back here to check the collective wisdom before ordering.
  12. Thanks all. I need to spend some more time on the baseboard design then. It’s an area I have a concept but little else. Does anyone have further thoughts on the rest of the questions..? I’m particular keen on the solder and electrical connections as I need to do those soon for my son’s layout. Thanks again for all the input!
  13. Not sure if this is the correct forum for my questions... Apologies if not. I’m looking for advice on the most basic elements of the hobby. 1. What are the best types of wood for baseboards? 2. what sort of wire do people use for track feeds? 3. What electrical connectors are good for frequent connection/ disconnection (chocolate blocks get old really fast!)? 4. What sort of solder works best for nickel track? 5. What sort of soldering iron / iron tips do the best detail work? 6. How to prep track to be soldered? Is there a “best way” to do it? Which produc
  14. Thanks David, I did note a few better layout plans but I just wanted to use the ebay odds & sods I have initially to see if my son liked it. Picture of the current version attached. It only has a few brand new bits included to make it connect, so cheap as chips and works a treat. I have a few more off-cut bits of flexi track I can use to create the sidings. Just not got round to it yet. He’s too young for shunting puzzles at the moment so no urgency, he just loves watching them going round in circles. I need to make some basic scenery as he keeps asking for the trains to go int
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