Jump to content

AMac

Members
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. AMac

    Preorder email

    I also had my 7 car APT pre order from Hattons cancelled. That's a great shame as I've had great service from them previously though this is the first pre-order I've tried (similar with Rails and Kernow). I emailed both Hattons and Hornby - I got a response straight away from Hattons re confirming the last on - first off policy when there's a shortfall of supply. I ordered 8 months ago - I can't remember when the pre-order was advertised - does anyone recall? Anyway that clearly was not early enough. I'm yet to hear back from Hornby - that should be within the next 2 days or so t
  2. Hi Paul, thanks for the link to the photos. I take it these are your photos? Fantastic to have that resource made available! To my eyes it looks like the 38-130B's are also a Sealion? Seems to agree with the coding as per giz's post. Good tip on the bookazine as well - I found the page on this site. I might just get that bookazine. Cheers, Alastair
  3. Hi giz, many thanks for the info. Yes, I was wondering about the YGH code. Cheers, Alastair
  4. Hi, I have been looking at purchasing a few of the Dept Olive Green Seacows by Bachmann and noticed there appear to be 2 photos showing the decals/markings in slightly different places. See the screen shots below (one image is higher resolution); you can see the warning hazard sign on different sides of the end U channel ribbing and other info including wagon type and YGH code are in different spots with less/more info. Are these 2 different types or is it just the 2 sides of a model? If there are 2 types is one better than the other? As a sub question, why are these seacows but h
  5. Hi 298. I think you may have picked up the problem! Do you mean the copper coloured clip that holds the gears in plus the large gears on each side? I pulled these off and noticed what appeared to be a very small dead spiders legs and possibly a small body (baby Daddy Long leg?). It was wrapped up on the holding pin for one of the large gears. I pulled these off and ran with the gears and the motor ran fine at around .03A at low speed. I then placed the gears and clip back on and tried to run the loco and it seems to be fine. My test section at home is only 700 mm long (I need to do a bunch of
  6. Hi smoke box. Thanks for the reminder of Brian Lambert's website - a lot of really helpful information. I think I pretty much did the conversion as per his instructions. Orange to LH brush strip (I went to the small tabs to the side rather than the main part of the strip , though I was able to heat shrink over the solder connection) Grey to RH brush strip Red to rail pick up on motor chassis Black to rail pick up on non-power bogie frame I've checked for continuity. nothing from either brush strip to either rail pick up connection. There is continuity be
  7. Hi ISW. Good tip. I did wrap the blue, yellow and white wire ends individually with kapton tape first then wound all 3 together with more kapton tape. As the motor worked at first without any problems I thought I would check just to make sure some tape hadn't shifted/ripped or whatever. No luck there - meaning the wires are still insulated from each other. Cheers
  8. Hi Pete the Elaner. Thanks for that suggestion. I assumed the ringfield is not the type that causes problems. It did have that short brown wire that connected from the brush /retainer strip to the bogie chassis. I couldn't find any connection/contact from the brush retainer strip to the chassis or any metal lumps sticking out so pretty sure I'm OK there. Cheers
  9. Hi. I have converted my old APT-P to DCC but a shorting problem has occurred. Long explanation coming up! I cleaned the ringfield motor and tested this prior to the conversion and all seemed fine. I then wired up a NCE chip (4 funtion ? 8 wires). I tested this and all seemed to work fine for the first few (very short) test runs. However, the motor will run a short distance then will stop/ won't respond with a clearly audible humming noise. I changed my NCE Power Cab to display current and noticed that the amps would jump up to 1.4 to 2.4 A! I believed I hadn't missed a trick with i
  10. Hi Geoff and CloggyDog, thanks for confirming the terminals and help my understanding. I'm just getting back into railway modelling so I've done a fair bit of reading but still virtually no "doing"! Thanks again to all for all the advice, Alastair
  11. Hi RedgateModels, Many thanks for your help. I didn't expect an answer so quickly! Yep too easy - I tend to over-think things especially when something is new to me. BUT just to make sure, are the motor terminal where I've marked in yellow below?
  12. Hi, I have some old locos that I am converting to DCC. One of these is a Lima Class 20 (about 25 yrs old?) which was kindly given to me. The engine works fine. I have seen a couple of videos on converting this type but they a re slighting different - essentially a simple pair of connections. However the version of motor I have has more connections. I believe there is a capacitor and a pin the goes through the motor casing -everything all connected. I am nervous about connecting up as I'm sure I'll leave an electrical connection between the rail pick up and motor because I don't kno
×
×
  • Create New...