lincolnshiremodeller

Have you tried installing a stay alive for good measure? I recently improved my father's terribly running Hornby 08 by adding new pickups and a stay alive. It did the trick...though needed to disable DC capability in the chip CV settings as well. Cheers Simon

Thanks that's useful to know. Did you need to respray the front to accommodate the headlight or was it already a match? Great modelling as usual. Cheers Simon

Did you use a kit as such for your 45/0 to 45/1 conversion or your own made up parts (for the roof). I'm planning on doing something similar with my Bachmann 45/0. Looking good. Simon

Thanks for the heads up.

Any word on when further stock of TEAs are planned? Thanks Simon

Thanks @Lemmy282 and @LMSfan72 for your replies. I knew about P16/20 but didn't want to make the leap of faith without knowing for sure (it's not my loco). Much obliged Simon

Hi I'm looking to fit a Lais Stay Alive to a Bachmann factory sound fitted class 40. I've done a trawl online for either a instruction/video of somebody doing similar or a wiring diagram of said decoder but have drawn a blank. Would any kind soul know which are the +Ve and GND pins of the decoder used as per attached photos, to which I can solder a Stay Alive unit? First picture with circular sticker is obviously the top of the decoder and the second picture the bottom. Many thanks Simon

Have you tried the Hunt magnetic couplings from Westhill Wagon Works? I've used the buckeye variants on coaching stock ad am about to try out a different variant on freight stock. I prefer Kadee couplings but they are just becoming so darn expensive to roll out to every loco, coach, and wagon. So I'm in the process of swapping some out with the Hunt couplings on fixed wagon rakes that don't get shunted. SJ

The Hornby class 31 is a prime example of this. Its a great model that runs exceptionally well, but trying to buy one in a BR blue or sector livery was always overly difficult. Most of my locos are resprays of DCRail liveried examples which were heavily discounted....not surprisingly there wasn't a demand and retailers needed to move them on. Its not a surprise Accurascale have jumped in and claimed the 31, and Cavalex are doing the same with the 56 and 60. Hornby produced great models just not in the quantity or style that people wanted and now they'll likely loose the market altogether.

Running a flat bladed scalpel across the roof cuts down on the amount of sanding required. The ribs do come away quite easily.

Oh now yer talkin!

I use the cylindrical magnets inserted into a hole drilled right through the baseboard which means the magnet can be pushed out if it's to be removed. It works very well but does involve some trial and error in terms of the strength of the magnets. I use two stacked one above the other in the same hole. I also paint the top of the magnet and also the Kadee itself (frame dirt) to slightly weaken the pull. If it's too strong then the Kadee will simply stick to the magnet. Once working you just need to add a scenic marker of some sort to remind yourself where the magnet is!

Yes agreed a great range of kits. I have a 114 which uses a Bachmann 108 chassis extended to fit. I'm on the look out on ebay for another one to convert into a parcels unit. Simon

Great looking selection of DMUs. Especially liking the 114 which is something on my long term radar. What's its origin? Modified DC kits?

Good for him. The longer it keeps him away from the dreaded X box the better!

I sense you're itching to get started but have you insulated the garage and thought about heating the space before you start building baseboards? A cold garage over the winter and a sauna in the summer may temper your enthusiasm!

I did...and I did! Took me back to Birmingham New St circa 1985 waiting with my parents for a train back home to Lincoln. At a major hub like BNS the board just emphasised the vast array of destinations to an an awe struck 10 year old who lived in the middle of nowhere.

Hear hear. My philosophy as well. As the old saying goes, how do you eat an elephant? One mouthful at a time...

I'd echo the white primer first, followed by a spray of Halfords yellow (can't remember which one but there can't be many in this day and age), followed by Railmatch yellow. Whether spraying or brushing the warning panel yellow is awful stuff in my opinion. Seems overly thin with an annoying green in tinge which always seems to come to the fore. On one of my models after applying the umpteenth coat of yellow I added a tiny drop of Tamiya orange and found it had a thickening affect which took to the model much better. Good luck. The 304 looks great.

They were preceded by class 307s, also second hand from NSE as a stop gap. They were used on the Doncaster route as the Aire Valley was not electrified at this point. Simon

Removing the blanking plate switches off all lights on the vehicle so suspect this makes the lighting circuit open circuit. Looks like the answer lies in a wiring diagram around the dcc socket and what needs connected just for the lights to be enabled. Thanks Simon

I have installed a decoder into a Bachmann class 108 and all is well with the running. The brake vehicle has directional lighting working as expected. But the non brake vehicle has both red and white lights illuminated regardless of direction of travel. In order to improve the running and not need a second decoder for the non brake vehicle, I have through wired them. However even when through wired the red and white lights are still illuminated at the same time in the non brake vehicle. The lights in the brake vehicle work fine with the change in direction. My question is whether the dcc blanking plate in the non brake vehicle is causing the red and white lights to be on all the time? I don't remember this being the case in dc mode. Any ideas?

Another good show with some great layouts but I'd reiterate some previous views that the the absence of Squires and other small traders was a big loss in terms of what materials were available at the show. I went with a shopping list that included paint, glue, and electrical switches but gave up on the majority of it. I bought it online after the show, a somewhat odd situation on reflection. Do the traders pay to attend the show? I guess they do? Perhaps the rent on a venue like the SEC means that the profit margins of glue and paint don't add up, but they do when selling a brand new loco for several hundred pounds? It would explain the dozen or so box shifters selling the same stock at pretty much the same price.

Looking good. Is the concrete sleeper load a bought item or did you put it together yourself by stripping sleepers off a piece of track for example? Simon

Great modelling from a part of the world that I also model. What's the origin of the green wagon loader parked on the dock next to the 25?