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2mm Dabbler

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  1. Pretty rare I'll agree. The Heinkel 178 and Caproni Campini N.1 (both experimental) were also tail draggers as were Messerschmitt 262 prototypes V1 to V4. The Attacker and the Yak 15 are, to my knowledge, the only operational military jets with this type of undercarriage, both having origins in propeller driven aircraft (Yak 9 for the 15). The Yak 15 was developed in to the 17 which had tricycle undercarriage.
  2. There are a range of solvent-free contact adhesives available, UniBond as an example, and a gentleman I met last year at a local exhibition was demonstrating their use for laminating styrene sheets in building construction. I believe the adhesives are acrylic based, the Selleys brand I use (Australian) is certainly labelled as such. Michael
  3. Understandable, removing material from either could lead to structure weakening at a critical point. Using the etched footplate in conjunction with some of the body castings might be feasible. If not then I know a few N/2mm modellers down here would probably be interested. Thanks Nigel
  4. I'll second that! At risk of dragging the topic sideways, a rummage through the gloat box(es) revealed three Gem kits......I knew of one, suspected two but three! One's a badly built ebay rescue but the others appear untouched. Any suggestions other than back on ebay? Michael
  5. That looks more like Barlow rail to me. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barlow_rail Michael
  6. Perhaps something a little larger than a Clyde puffer? (not mine unfortunately) Michael
  7. Not too hard really. I made one some time ago to fit on a Unimat 3. It was took an evening to make with all machining done the machine itself, including motor cooling down periods and the fairly gentle cuts needed with steel on these machines to avoid stalling. I made it for Phil Badger who seemed satisfied with its performance. The original MRJ article was in issue 79, Geoff Helliwell describing its construction for his Cowells machine. I really must make one for myself. As that issues long out of print I could send a scan in few days if you're interested. Michael Edit: Colin Binnie may have been first (no surprise) http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=16mmgardenrailw1;id=69;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwfvr%2Ewebs%2Ecom%2F
  8. Thank you David for responding to my questions. The carbide on styrene was simply something I recall reading without the experience of having tried it. I have a similar memory of someone machining Perspex and using water as a coolant - again I've not tried it. Contributor Bertiedog (I don't know Stephen's last name) has apparently for some time been using 3mm burr-sided milling cutters with success as his post #37 on the 'Lathes & M/C tools' shows. I've used them when grooving a handwheel for a collet drawbar and a clamping knob for a workbench lamp: results were good. I've also milled urethane when working on Mink d in 2mm with an excellent finish. This, incidentally, was from a casting courtesy of Phil Badger (Ixion etc). These cutters are also extremely inexpensive. I've also milled Mazak, a Fleischmann 'Black Anna' body, using an FC3 cutter. I was quite smug when I machined off the tank filler hatches without touching the tank top and leaving no witness marks. Much less smug when I later started milling out the inside of the body and this time used an older cutter which had probably been used on steel.........At least the horrible finish couldn't be seen from the outside. As far as the various coatings go, they seem to be common on cheaper drillbits; definitely not for serious use. However I was recently machining some stainless steel of unknown but less than friendly characteristics with inserted tip tooling and TiN coated tips lasted far longer. Regards Michael
  9. Chris isn't the only person modelling Newcastle - Ross Balderson is modelling Newcastle circa 1890 in N and making a marvellous job of it. If you've seen his model of Central then you'll know what to expect! Shipping, steam trams etc. Looking forward to seeing Chris's work again, I also totally agree regarding stupid government decisions. Regards Michael
  10. I have been greatly enjoying this topic, not to mention previous ones and your website. Your eye for the finer details and skill in representing them are both fascinating and inspiring. Particularly with the Victory class which I've been taken with since I encountered Don Townsley's drawings 40 odd years ago. It's compact but powerful - a 'pocket Hercules' of a loco with a classic design. Also pleasing is your ready use of machine tools, especially as a Unimat 3 was one of my first serious purchases and still gives great satisfaction. A question in that regard: a little while back in MRJ I believe I remember seeing an article where the author (can't remember, sorry) preferred carbide tooling when machining styrene as the material didn't heat up as much, so reducing the risk of melting small or thin sections. Would I be correct is assuming your milling cutters are HSS? Regards Michael McLachlan
  11. I remember that description too: http://www.clag.org.uk/scrawker.html Colin Binnie who, even if he didn't invent the 'skrawker', certainly made it well known, described how to make them from old hacksaw blades: http://home.iae.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/ColinBinnie/CBWJ.htm Incidentally, current bi-metal blades are not suitable for re-use in this way. Regards Michael
  12. Something like this should work http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Walkera-W010-Gear-Pinion-Puller-Remover-Tools-Set-For-RC-Motor-Pinion-Parts-SH-/252497870950?hash=item3aca0bc066:g:QNsAAOSwV0RXrfAO I've goy an earlier version with a fixed lower plate and it works very well. Regards Michael
  13. I've read of a few similar conversions in the Unimat Yahoo group. As well as the circlip fitted to the end and the flat on shaft the gear or belt sprocket is also fitted with a very strong retaining compound/adhesive. Most have had to heat the fitting with a small gas torch to degrade the grip of the adhesive. One fellow however, pointed out that the sprocket was sintered and quite brittle - he rested it on an anvil and used a cold chisel. I have a similar conversion intended for my Unimat 3. which will at least overcome the intermittent duty cycle.
  14. When Dave Holland built his model the Association wheels had steel axles. When production changed to the current lost-wax centres with integral axles those modellers who ran their locos for long distances found that thin frames could cut grooves in the axles, hence the current general use of phosphor-bronze bearings. Naturally this may not matter depending on your planned layout. Michael
  15. I agree completely. Lovely neat work, fine soldering and with that 'crisp' look I also aspire to. Oddly enough I had, prior to to sub-topic above occurring, been reminded by the photos of some magazine articles where someone builds an old but high quality etched kit such as Sayer-Chaplin or Mallard - intended as a compiment I assure you! And thank you Tony for raising an new thread; I'll look it up. Michael
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