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Robert Davies

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Everything posted by Robert Davies

  1. Tower Models carry the Bachmann Scenecraft Range in 'O' http://www.tower-models.com/towermodels/ogauge/bachmannscenecraft/buildings/index.htm Rob
  2. To clarify, and sorry for not having replied sooner, i didn't get a new post notification, I bought the Loksound 'new' so the wires for the speaker were already soldered to the chip - the pads required are on the underside of the chip - the side without the black plastic socket, and if you subsequently hold the chip upright with the pinholes at the top, they are the two pads next to next at the top left, I repeat, on the side without the black plastic socket. If you are attaching wires to those pads, trim and tin the wires first, get the iron warm, hold the wire in place on the solder pad, and just dab the iron on it briefly, and the job, as they say, should be a good 'un.
  3. I remember cobbling together a 67 project from the ESU Renfe D333 plus the Class 66 horns from the ESU sample pack - sounds pretty reasonable to me
  4. Tenuous Irish parallel in freight (or former in the Irish case) traffic - Timber, beets, cement…
  5. I can confirm that I have successfully used the Hornby Sapphire harness to fit a 21pin Loksound 4 to an 8 pin loco - an older Hornby Class 67. I can further confirm that there was no issuance of magic smoke. -Rob
  6. A propelled move around part of it:
  7. Hello Kirley! I just popped over from IRM to cast an eye over your layout. You've captured well, the everyday life of Belfast with all it's facets. The use of the Metcalfe kits to create the terraces, to recreate their patterned sameness, but picking out the details that brought individuality. I grew up in houses just like that, no more than a hundred yards from the railway. I just love the pic of the yard with the fertiliser wagons, the Ford D series, and the cement bubbles... Thanks for posting it all, -Rob
  8. Has anyone worked out which chip on the Loksound V4 is generating the heat? Whilst what I'm about to suggest will almost certainly void your warranty, I'm wondering whether fashioning a heatsink and attaching said to the problematic chip via a dab of heatsink paste, would improve longevity log term? Of course, the very installations that need the heatsink - restricted space/airflow - are the very ones that would need the heatsink... -Rob
  9. My experience with 66s are mostly limited to v3.5 Loksound. Bachmann standard soundscheme - much faffing around and came to the decision that a single bass enhanced in the standard position is the best balance between hassle and sound quality - there is a slight improvement with a bass reflex in that position but that involves shaving the speaker box down, reprofiling the rear of the cab wall, removing the screw retainers for the upper marker light and cablight and gluing same in. Howes v3.5 soundscheme - the best solution by some margin was to retain the standard speaker as Big Jim suggested, and properly seal it - the difference between sealed and unsealed is genuinely astonishing. Now if you have a Loksound v4 AND a lokprogrammer, I strongly recommend that you download and experiment with the soundscheme from ESU's own class 66/77 - I like it a lot, but you may feel differently - have a look here: http://www.esu.eu/en...4/loksound-v40/ about half way down the page currently. -Rob ps the ESU Class 66 scheme is all new - NOT the one from the old Mehano 66.
  10. My understanding is that MrSoundGuy has been working with The Model Shop Belfast on their sound decoders. http://modelshopbelfast.com/index.php/railways/irish-and-local/irish-sound-decoder-071-111.html Mr Sound Guy's website has been 'under construction' for a wee while.... http://www.mrsoundguy.co.uk
  11. Building on what Bif said above, F6 'Notch down' is not quick to respond in my experience, so it may appear that nothing happens when you press it. However, as well the scenario outlined by Bif above, if you have not notched fully 'down' after having notched 'up', the sound will stop instantly upon pressing F1. A further note - Bachmann sound loco's instructions sheet's function listing can frequently be listed under 'fiction' rather than 'non-fiction'.
  12. Hi! I'd like to enquire of Bryan, via Jim, what progress has been made on the Ruston 37 sound project? There's a pair of slugs here that are a bit too quiet for my liking! -Rob
  13. This is a local shop for, for local people...

    1. Horsetan


      What's all this shouting? We'll have no trouble here....

  14. The PowerCab definitely supports 'consisting' or double heading as we call it. It is best if the chips in the locos support 'advanced consisting'. You can, say bring a train in with a double header on, and bring it to a stand and add another loco to it quickly and simply, or just as easily remove a loco from the front and drive it away on shed. The PowerCab, being developed in the states where multiple locos on a train are the norm, makes it very easy to setup 'multi header' trains. -Rob ps I do have a Multimaus, and love it to bits, but the Powercab is just so much better in this regard, I do however prefer my Multimaus on a single loco shunting plank type layout.
  15. Like Nimbamoss earlier in this thread, I made contact via the website contact page, leaving my name and address. Within 24hrs Larry, from NCE, contacted me to tell me he had just registered my PowerCab unit using the details that I had left - easy as that apparently I'm rather looking forward to exploring the new features! -Rob
  16. Being as the NCE website is down at the moment, is there an email address available to contact NCE on? I too bought my PowerCab secondhand.... -Rob
  17. So back to actually trying to help the OP Anything above 373xx is out of your time period. What you want is classified as a 37/0 - Though it could be numbered between 370xx -> 372xx -Rob ps Though of course at the time they would be D numbered eg D69xx
  18. Have you rung SWD? Best if you do... -Rob
  19. Whilst I can heartily assure you it's not me profiteering on ebay..... If the ebay buyers are in the UK and are too daft to put the words "Bachmann, freightliner, 70001" into google, fourth result takes you to the Freightliner shop btw, then they are getting what they deserve - a cracking model that many other people will have bought for far less. DO YOUR HOMEWORK PEOPLE! -Rob
  20. Oh! Trade Sale (with a difference!) I'd just like to thank John for all his assistance (and patience!) over the years, and on a purely selfish note, I think I'll go in that corner over there and cry -Rob
  21. That was my experience - I ordered it, and then a week or so later, it arrived - no dispatch notice. -Rob
  22. OK then! Having just gone and done a few tests on my PowerCab setup, it would appear that your panel is faulty. However there are a few things you can look at: Can you reconfirm that the ends of the pins in the left hand socket are properly in their tracks (vertical grooves) at the back of the socket , and visually it matches the right hand socket? Are the pins in the left hand socket clean? - no obvious crap, dribbles of dried diluted PVA, bits of ballast etc One last clutch at a straw.... unplug the flat cable completely, and plug the end that was in the handset into the panel and vice versa. Let us know how you get on. -Rob
  23. Out of the box? Certainly.... If you've fitted any buffer beam detailing, a quick test may be in order. I'm thinking air pipes engaging on couplings typically. I know for a fact that a Bachmann 37 with the MU pipe fitted will ping it off on the coupling, on medium radius points more often than not. -Rob
  24. There's a pretty good setup guide for soundtrax low speed running HERE! An observation on my part - the better the quality of the motor, the trickier it is to setup a soundtrax decoder to run it(!) -Rob
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