trevorsmith3489

The platforms for Jarrow are in production. plasticard, foam board, Evergreen moulded sheet and rod, spray paint from Hobbycraft, images from the internet and name boards designed in word with a downloaded font - printed out on glossy photo paper.

Yes It does! On Roundtrees Sidings we glued a length of Code 83 rail into an old file handle and “reamed” the pandrol clips on each section of sleepers before sliding the rail in place. Code 82 slides into the pandrol clips easily.

If the loco works OK and you have tried 2 different decoders - have you considered your NCE Power cab could be the culprit? Perhaps a reset might be tried. could the loco address be part of a consist? Have you tried removing the booster from the system, and just running two wires from the NCEPowercab to a short length of track to eliminate a track fault/booster fault? Does the loco work OK upside down on a cradle, ie eliminating any load How does the loco perform if you use address 3? Trevor

Where has everyone gone? For me. Too much reading on forums, too little posting. My personal layout continues to evolve https://kaleyyard.wordpress.com and I am exhibiting California Surfline at ModelRail Scotland in Glasgow this weekend. https://www.btmrs.co.uk/california-surfline Still enthusiastic about modelling the US, perhaps forums and Social Media are loosing their edge for modellers. Trevor

I have just one. Has run fine for about four years. Good range of functions, remote uncoupling I thought was a good idea and uncoupling works fine , just requires a scale 30 mph to couple! Does not liked being dropped on the floor so no longer working.

I use a Lenz DCC system and had no issues at all. just follow the instructions to change the DCC address to the cabside number. Trevor

The Wordpress blog was started a number of years ago before RMweb was the platform it now is. I don't have time to do both, so I am staying with Wordpress.

The helix is all my own work.

Code 83 by Peco is my way to go. Easy to lay, looks good and reliable. The concrete tie variety has a slight issue with tie spacing, but once ballasted looks really good. My home layout has just featured in Continental Modeller and I have received many positive comments about the trackwork. https://kaleyyard.wordpress.com/tracklaying/ https://kaleyyard.wordpress.com/ballasting/ and a short video of the completed upper deck with some clips of the real thing

A mixture of layout videos and the real thing used for inspiration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzY_iuQ0e5I (made by my 8 year old grandson with a Go Pro camera - watch for his jump to see if the loco is moving) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNMmwwnFFb0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMvfrAqQs8A&t=14s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e3WBCCl1m4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CdW_NtnE_w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7fjFyJR1Ak https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ti_6Cqcm3GE Trevor

An introduction to my HO garage layout has just been published in this month's Continental Modeller. A sample of photographs from the article. Part two to follow next month.

Tape pencils to the middle and both ends of your longest vehicle and run that on the track so the pencil points make a mark on your baseboard. This will be the edge of your loading platform or will mark how close a building can be to the track. The process works for both straight/curved track.

Contikits had a stall at the Perth Green exhibition on Sat/Sun I model in HO and dabble in N Contikits had a wide range of second hand stuff ranging from £5.00 upwards for freight cars and locos from £25.00 In N gauge, freight cars from £4.00 and locos from £18.00 In my experience, Kato locos are always good quality, in both HO and N If you are creating a switching layout, running quality is going to be important. so issues like slow running, controlabiity, and couplings are all going to be important. T

The steel brake discs on my car can turn a rust colour within an hour of them getting wet when I clean the wheels - indicating that rusting can take place very quickly. The Standard for the Manufacture of Wrought Steel Wheels for Passenger Cars and Locomotives in the USA states; "Wheels shall not be covered with any substance to such an extent as to inhibit the detection of defects." I imagine similar specs exist for all railroad wheels and will mean without any surface protection even new wheels will turn a rust colour very quickly. This is by design presumably to aid the visual inspection of wheelsets to detect flaws or cracks. Out of interest, did USA railroads have the equivalent of the "wheeltappers?" Trevor

I used Orlando as a base in 2004 to watch, photograph, ride trains and visit model shops in Florida. Colonial Photo and Hobby in Orlando together with Ready to Roll in Miami were like an Aladdin's Cave - well stocked shops, cheap prices (locos @ $25!) and with a $2 to £1 exchange I was able to "fill my boots." I bought another suitcase just for model railway stuff for the flight home. I was in Florida two weeks ago and my rail related plans were curtailed by Hurricane Irma. (No rail movements from 2.00pm Friday 8th and still no train movements on Thursday 13th the day before I returned.) I visited Colonial Photo and Hobby and was very disappointed. They had generally poor stock levels and their loco/rolling stock choice was limited. The prices seemed expensive when I converted $ to £. Came away with 1 loco @ £84 that will need a sound decoder and some scenery items. Of much better value was a trip on SunRail, Sand Lake Road to Debarry and return for a seniors fare of $3.50. Virtually no other passengers during a mid day trip and you can sit at the front of the cab car with a driver's eye view. Trevor