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highpeakman

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About highpeakman

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  • Location
    Where I can watch the Red Arrows practice.
  • Interests
    Very broad interests but perhaps focused more on BR Midland - Derbyshire, Notts and Lincs areas in late 50s/60s - Wirksworth, Buxton, Cromford & High Peak in particular - Also GC Main Line around Nottingham + any Industrial railways (NG and Standard). Old enough to remember C&HP in working order, Trent Junction Station, Derby Works in full flow, Windcutters at Nottm Victoria, prototype Deltic at Grantham and a few other things I miss.A believer in modelling to capture the feeling/atmosphere of the time/prototype even if some details are not correct and of the right to run what I like.

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  1. Not only did many businesses use telex (My company in the late 60s sent hundreds of the damn things every day to it's US parent company. I spent many hours preparing the paper tapes earlier in the day so that messages could be sent later in the day when it was cheaper) but British Railways made extensive use of them to transmit such things as wagon locations and other operational information. My sister worked as a telex operator for BR on Derby station (Control Office on Platform 1(?)) for several years in the late 50s.
  2. I am really enjoying these pictures. Thank you very much indeed for posting them.
  3. Finally managed to separate the two. There is something, possibly oil (?), around the front screw holes under the chassis. Not sure what it is but something liquid seems to be holding the two parts together. Continuous gentle prising and finally a very faint crack noise (not something breaking!) as something gave and then it all came apart OK. Edit: It's weird. Whatever the "liquid" was it appears to have dried up by itself while the chassis was being fitted with the decoder. Reassembled and disassembled again without problems. Runs beautifully without match truck. Very happy - now!
  4. Is anyone else having trouble separating the chassis from the body? Have just received my MOD 48DS and want to fit a decoder but am really struggling to get the body off and want to be careful as I don't want to do any damage. Yes, I have removed the four screws. Yes, I have removed the coupling bar and connecting wires. Yes, I have removed the front coupling blank. Yes, I have made sure that the plugs are clear of the body and not fouling. I can't see anything else holding the two together and yet I can't make the chassis move even the slightest. Have tried gentle prising with a screwdriver in the front coupling slot but NO movement at all. Almost as if glued in. Actually a tiny amount of shiny hard stuff (like hardened glue) around the rear coupling mount and I am unable to get a scalpel between the body and chassis at that point (but I am not trying too hard at present). Suggestions gratefully received please. Thanks.
  5. Wish you all the best in your new life. A wonderful country and people with the west coast being particularly stunning. Good to see your pics.
  6. New Zimo fitted. Smooth correct running now. CV settings identical to Digitrax so I think there was some form of problem with it. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help.
  7. Speed settings (including acceleration, etc) have been altered but haven't changed behaviour. The loco starts and accelerates normally but then does not slow down when you turn down the power. As mentioned above, it has been factory reset by two different methods and then CVs changed but still behaves erratically. I have experienced such problems before with Digitrax decoders although I am not saying they are poor. I have some that are behaving perfectly but I will replace this one with Zimo and see what happens.
  8. Loco now working on both layout and Test rig Thanks to Nigel however there is still a problem with the decoder in that loco still runs away on zero throttle. Zimo replacement has been ordered.
  9. Didn't assume. As I mentioned above I did check some of the CVs. Addresses and speed settings and a few other things were all reset every time I did it. I admit that I did not check every single one though. I also reset using Sprog and separately using the Power cab and CV8. Originally this model used short addresses but I did alter it to use the same long address but have now altered it back. However you are spot on it seems - I went to the Powercab and entered 0019 and it runs correctly! I didn't realise the difference. That is obviously where the problem lies. Thank you very much indeed for solving that one. It was driving me mad! Much appreciated.
  10. Thanks for the suggestion. The rollers on my test bench are mounted on a short piece of track and it runs along that OK as well as the rollers. So I don't think it is a wheel/contact problem. Plus, initially at least, it did work on the layout. I had already thought about fitting the DZ125 to a different loco but it is just a matter of time to sort out another loco and fit the chip in that. Most of the locos with other DZ125s in are hard wired so a bit of a faff as this one uses the 8 pinplug. I also can't remember which other locos have 8 pin plug in decoders even if of a different type so would probably have to remove some bodies to see what is fitted. Haven't done it yet and I guess I hoped that someone may have another solution before I took that course of action. Thanks for responding. I appreciate all suggestions.
  11. I use a NCE Powercab on my layout. I also use Decoder Pro with a Sprog II v3 for testing/configuring locos on test rollers on my workbench. I have happily used this combination for some years without any problems. Decoder Pro (running on Windows 10) and the Sprog are up to date on firmware/software. The Power Cab uses v1.65 firmware. One of my locos - a Bachmann Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0 (32-580) has previously been used successfully, without problems, when used on the layout. It is fitted with a Digitrax DZ125 decoder. After some months of not being used I put the loco back on the layout and found running problems - jerky movements and poor speed control. I removed the body and carefully lubricated the loco and ran it for some time on my roller test bed controlled by the Sprog. Back on the layout and it still ran badly but also exhibited strange behaviour - principally it would run away even when the throttle was turned off. I then put it back on the Sprog test bench and reset the decoder. Checked the programming and everything was back to factory settings. I then reprogrammed the addresses and speed settings. Back on the layout with the Powercab and it still exhibited poor running as before - still running away. So this time I reset the decoder again using the "programme" track and Powercab. Still no improvement. Back to the Test bench and Sprog - another reset - loco runs well on rollers. Back to the layout and Powercab and now it won't run at all! Back to test bench - runs fine - won't work (dead) on Powercab layout. Everything turned on/off multiple times - ALL other locos on layout work as normal with both Powercab and Sprog. It's puzzling me - any ideas please? (Likely action will be to replace the Digitrax with Zimo as I have had a couple of problems with Digitrax before unfortunately).
  12. Sorry for jumping back some days but I have been away and am just catching up. I am also showing my own ignorance here but could someone please offer a brief description of the "NEA" coach code in the train consist shown above. I am not immediately familiar with that term and cannot find any reference to this in lists of BR coach designations. Probably very obvious and I am being dense but, for the moment, I would appreciate it if someone could humour me. Thanks.
  13. Thanks for the information. Looks like I will go for the MX616N. I agree with your comments about not being able to use a direct plug 6 pin as on the W4.
  14. No, my connector is exactly where it is shown in your photo. I would think they are all the same. I think it should be quite straightforward to fit a decoder if you are using the recommended Hornby decoder. You were right in that Hornby's idea, as shown, is that you unplug the dc board (probably have to take the plastic surround off first). The Hornby encoder then fits down into the front slot and the wires from that go to the connector which is now mounted in the slot alongside the motor. My problem arises from the fact that I am trying to use a Zimo 6 pin which makes it difficult without some modifications as it is too long (including the pins) to go upright in the decoder slot..
  15. You are quite right. My mistake, should have looked longer and harder! I looked at the plug on the side.My problem is that the Zimo is a 6 pin out rather than a cable so the plug is mounted directly on it which makes the decoder too tall when it is fitted. I will spend some more time on the puzzle later today but am wondering about buying the Hornby decoder but I like my Zimos.
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