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Darwinian

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Everything posted by Darwinian

  1. A bit of quick stock upgrade while under coats on the shed doors dries. Hornby 57’ Collett corridor bow end composite being detailed mostly following MRJ 247 article by Gerry Beale. I removed the red “no smoking” triangles from the glazing with IPA but couldn’t shift the printed corridor handrails so they will have to do. Likewise I don’t have any t-cut and the cutting polish I have would not shift the lower lining. Will have to try glass fibre burnishing brush.
  2. Good to see this back on the bench. I have just completed my Finney Aberdare. See my Cwmhir layout thread. I split two of the Gibson outside cranks so ended up using the Finney ones. I opened out the axle holes with a tapered broach and soldered 3 laminations together with 188 solder. Fettled from the back face with the broach until just fitting over the axle end at that side. A shallow countersink put on the front face. Crankpins added and then forced them onto the axles using a GW wheel press in a vice. I soldered into the countersink too but that was probably overkill and
  3. I made a simple jig to drill some scratch built coach sides. Bit of 20thou brass wider than the door plus handles. Bent over at a right angle at one end. Cut to reach about half way up the door overlapping to either side. Hook this against the lower edge of the coach side and mark the door position (Small notches in top edge). Tape it to coach side and Carefully mark positions to be drilled. Once these have been drilled you can just slide it along the side from door to door. The brass will wear but should be good for several sides. Afraid I binned mine when the scratch builds failed
  4. That’s a brilliant resource and indeed just what I was looking for. Many thanks.
  5. Just found a topic on another forum that quotes... “According to A Livery Register of the Great Western Railway by H.M.R.S. ........” 1925 1st plain brown 3rd red, as I thought. Blue for 1st cited as 1935.
  6. Thanks Miss P. I appreciate those are preservation era but assuming the corridor view is about right it would fit with the mahogany colour below waist level (Which would make sense as it will get dirtiest) and much lighter panels above than the Hornby plastic. Doors appear completely dark colour.
  7. I am detailing a Hornby Collett 57’ bow ended composite, in Chocolate cream with crest livery, following Gerry Beale’s MRJ 247 article. My modelling period is 1928-1932. However he states that he picked out the corridor screen in “mahogany” and “walnut” but not which bits. I can see from Russel’s books that the panels either side of the compartment doors are light colour but what about the doors and below the waistline (not visible from ground level)? Also for a late 1920s coach would 1st class seats be chocolate rather than blue (Hornby)? Am I also right in thinking that the “n
  8. I’m no electrics guru but on your photo I don’t see any isolating fishplates next to the turnout frogs. If each end of one loop can be set independently you will get shorts when both ends don’t access the loop.
  9. Yes. 0.3mm strip. One end squeezed around a 1mm drill bit for the hinge end, then cut to length and filed to a rounded end. Aligned with 0.7mm wire and glued in place with superglue. There will be boltheads (Achers river transfers) once undercoated. Not sure whether to put bolt heads/flitch plates on the outside too. The bottom doors are for the road access and will be suspended sliding doors.
  10. Time to get back to layout work. It’s been too long since I got the bulk of the goods shed built. It only needs doors, windows, chimney and down pipes. So first up doors.
  11. I used 5:2 Cam. Green 71.022 : Black for a match to precision enamel 1908-28 GWR green. It looked very close under daylight and cool white LEDs - until I varnished it too heavily. Not got the hang of spraying Vallejo acrylic varnishes yet.
  12. I like the back story, always good to have a sense of place, even if like me you have to invent a whole valley that doesn't appear on any map. I will be following your progress with interest. Re Gopher's comment. I don't think there is any rule for modelling a GWR branch as most weren't built by the GWR!
  13. Oops, quite right, I was thinking of “71.036 Mahogany”. Should have checked my paintbox before posting.
  14. Aberdare is all done, except that I've noticed that one of the brake standards on the tender has come adrift. Quick dab of cyano should fix that. Oh and I need to make some fire irons for the tender rack. Here is the official photo. Just for comparison here are three variants of GWR green on my models (The weathering is a bit different on each too). R to L. 57xx Precision post 1928 green, light weathering, 52xx Precision pre 1927 green, moderate weathering, 26xx Vallejo mix Pre 1927 green, heavier weathering. The more blue/gre
  15. The advantage with Vallejo paints is that the dropper bottles make repeatable mixes much easier. I have reasonable matches for the interwar GWR colours all mixed from the “Air” base colours set plus Camo Green. If you try different mixes on the primer you intend to use and keep a record of the numbers of drops of each colour it’s not too hard. For a “lake” I’d start with “maroon”.
  16. Another possibility is Stationroadbaseboards.co.uk in Norfolk. Got mine from them a good few years ago now. No personal connection etc.
  17. Ha, fixed it. It was a bind somewhere. I broke the solder holding the drive stretcher bit of the gearbox which allowed the main part to sit a bit further forward and dropped the motor height a smidgen. Had to file away the ends of the brake mounts to provide clearance. All a bit tight between 00 frames. No real damage done elsewhere = Result
  18. I have put insulation tape over the contacts on the motor so it shouldn't be a short but I'll double check. I suspect that the motor/gearbox is hitting the body somewhere and creating pressure on the mechanics causing them to jam. I ran out of patience yesterday so it's sat on one side while I ponder.
  19. Aberdare all assembled apart from rods. Now I have hit a problem. Setting the body the last mm down onto the chassis stops the mechanism. The unpowered wheels are free but I’m mystified. With footplate 1mm above chassis drive train is fine. Fully home and there is no movement. All very frustrating as it’s all so tight in there I can’t see the problem.
  20. Back to the Aberdare. I decided I didn’t like the brake pull rods waving about in mid air behind the cab steps so I have knocked up some basic brake cylinders and injector overflow pipes.
  21. I have just looked through my 2012 “GWR pannier now a 57xx” thread in “kit building and scratchbuilding” to refresh my memory. Assuming the Bachmann body is basically the same your two mystery screws hold the bunker weight block. This includes the cab back detail up to the toolboxes. The “coal” is moulded as part of the bunker which clips over this weight. I chain drilled around the edges with a small drill bit and cleaned up afterwards with files / scalpel blade. I cannot remember if the bunker is part of the cab moulding or separate. Hope this is helpful. There i
  22. You've done a neat job on getting rid of the topfeed pipework. I notice that you have left the injector overflow pipe running across the footplate and valance. I'm not sure when this route was introduced but have a feeling it was a BR era thing. Originally the pipe went through the footplate and behind the valance until just ahead of the cab step. It's not that difficult to remove it if it wasn't like that in your period. I should add that I have done a topfeed less 57xx from the Replica Railways body shell in 1929 condition.
  23. Eileen’s emporium probably stock them too. Usual disclaimer.
  24. Re Gibson crankpins: The 2018 (current) catalogue lists the screws as M1. Either M1 or 14BA washers should fit. Or simply make your own washers as you did the connecting rods? Enjoying seeing this develop. Adrian
  25. I am impressed that you have got that chassis so square using simple flat spacers. Using L shaped spacers can help to keep the frames parallel longitudinally and vertically while soldering them up. But then maybe that wasn’t possible in this case. Splendid progress so far.
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