Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yes, compensation usually helps both electrical pick-up and haulage ability, as well as being a bit more forgiving of any track, erm, 'irregularities'?  Which reminds me; have you had to rebuilt that double slip which was originally causing you hassle?  With its long wheelbase and tender I guess the Aberdare will either kill or cure that issue ! 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

So far a little careful tweaking of the double slip has rendered it reasonably reliable (good enough for home use) so long as I make the moves that were planned and don't try to shunt long runs of wagons in daft directions. The Aberdare + tender goes round all the bits of  the layout that it should but not the very tight turnout to the short spur next to the good shed.

 

If I was planning to exhibit (which I'm not) I would rebuild the first turnout at the station throat and the double slip as a single unit. They were the first pointwork I built and have a few rookie errors. They also have a very short joining length between them which doesn't help in keeping everything straight and level.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Last jobs on the Aberdare today. I had to wait until after my week away to order some short handrail knobs from Alan Gibson Workshop. Only now do I appreciate how different suppliers produce different knob lengths but call them the same. So here I’ve used 2x AGW short on the firebox. 1x Eileen’s Emporium Medium on the cone. 2x supplied with kit Medium on the smokebox (look to be same length as AGW Medium). Obviously the same both sides and an Eileen’s Medium for the smokebox front.

A2C727DA-143A-42ED-A46E-38AD4475148E.jpeg.8f2075fbcdbadd66b14d10b3f318ce54.jpegI formed the front handrail curves around a small screwdriver shaft and a pen body. Best one I’ve ever done I think. Not perfect radius perhaps but at least it’s even and symmetrical.

8739CF6A-8789-43EB-9B80-1FBF53F8364B.jpeg.07e4a82048efb00e2343da889af1a22c.jpeg

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

While I wait for the primer to harden I’ve started a refurbishment. I built this M & L GWR county tank  30+ years ago. The drive set up never really worked well and pickups were unreliable. I know they never got near S. Wales valleys but I like them so am keeping it for old times sake.

The early Alan Gibson wheels could not be pulled off so the axles has to be sawn through.

The large Marshima motor was held in by bath sealant which had leached down into one flexi-chas bearing so that wheelset had to go to so I could clean it up.

Replacement High level “road runner+” and Mitsumi cheap motor. New AGW driving wheels.

Here are the main bits before starting. Old wheels/ gearbox on the left.

56BB65DB-19BA-4A17-BBB7-518377FFEE12.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the replacement drive. Motor is slightly cogging  (3 pole might, well be a cheap clone version) but still a marked improvement on the old set up.

90990804-FA59-4B39-A565-C1F9088E24DA.jpeg.048858f25953f6ed0f5e8cc69342eb4f.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Painting of the Aberdare is underway. I’m using Vallejo Air acrylics and mixing my own match. For 1906-24 GWR green I have use Cam. Green and Black in a 5:2 ratio. 

Here is the result in daylight with a tinlet  of Phoenix precision for comparison. 

1FC8C12E-314D-4754-B2CC-FF65D836B186.jpeg.f5f4332ea1ad52646720868b7313d59a.jpeg

 

 

Needs another coat but looks good enough to me. Finish is a bit grainy, that was the Halfords etch primer for some reason.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Pit props...

A bit of bodging to try out an idea. Wooden kebab skewers for the logs, easily cut by rolling under a sharp blade. Cereal card box for the bulk. Just a test build so only one side/end done.

Too tall here, the uprights are out of gauge.

CCFDB94D-2A0C-44F8-9561-4E5E6F7E5A35.jpeg.f3288ae1dd79056155fcdb96e4ddf9a5.jpegC654C31B-FE94-4182-AA41-690362A0AFB6.jpeg.7e0a4beb156d4800adc866aee78d86d7.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aberdare getting there. Annoyingly the Vallejo satin varnish when sprayed has produced a grey/blue cast. 

I think this is my iffy spraying technique, probably got the pressure too high or overloaded the surfaces.

Anyway, the weathering should take care of it as I was planning on making this one well work stained.

Vab glazing next though.

B3F94EBC-D19B-42D3-9BBD-A80FBC56BA80.jpeg.00b27890d0201780d4aee1cbd3b3ec97.jpeg40B2818F-43CD-4097-A9EA-905D101D7C95.jpeg.f3d7d29b05c05632c681e90caa9fa652.jpeg

  • Like 10
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

More pit props. This is also on the pit props thread in modelling questions... but I’ll put it here too to continue the earlier experiments.

Double stack smaller pit props made from cocktail sticks and envelope back card.

They probably need painting!

5290199A-D5F0-4FCE-99B5-9F7A4EA716C0.jpeg.6d333287c71c9ffcf93ac4b06a1b0c62.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Back to the Aberdare. I decided I didn’t like the brake pull rods waving about in mid air behind the cab steps so I have knocked up some basic brake cylinders and injector overflow pipes.

 

C2499D17-51F6-4E99-9B0C-4EA85E699D6C.jpeg.d703867f7d4d93b83ad7f3e985ed858d.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aberdare all assembled apart from rods.

A77D50AC-86EE-432F-A5C2-A5693ADC4BFB.jpeg.183f9d4931c90d951e470940a9d58d23.jpeg

 

Now I have hit a problem. Setting the body the last mm down onto the chassis stops the mechanism. The unpowered wheels are free but I’m mystified.  With footplate 1mm above chassis drive train is fine. Fully home and there is no movement. All very frustrating as it’s all so tight in there I can’t see the problem. 

  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

It could perhaps be a live component making contact with the brass body and sending current back to earth, creating a dead short?

 

All the more frustrating no doubt, considering how good the finished locomotive looks.

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
Stupid autocorrect
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have put insulation tape over the contacts on the motor so it shouldn't be a short but I'll double check. I suspect that the motor/gearbox is hitting the body somewhere and creating pressure on the mechanics causing them to jam.  I ran out of patience yesterday so it's sat on one side while I ponder.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ha, fixed it. It was a bind somewhere. I broke the solder holding the drive stretcher bit of the gearbox which allowed the main part to sit a bit further forward and dropped the motor height a smidgen. Had to file away the ends of the brake mounts to provide clearance. All a bit tight between 00 frames. No real damage done elsewhere = Result

  • Like 3
  • Round of applause 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aberdare is all done, except that I've noticed that one of the brake standards on the tender has come adrift. Quick dab of cyano should fix that. Oh and I need to make some fire irons for the tender rack.

 

Here is the official photo.

 

523986752_Loco16b.JPG.817db2ccc47c29aa894982e1c4fb7961.JPG

 

Just for comparison here are three variants of GWR green on my models (The weathering is a bit different on each too).

R to L. 57xx Precision post 1928 green, light weathering, 52xx Precision pre 1927 green, moderate weathering, 26xx Vallejo mix Pre 1927 green, heavier  weathering.

 

514136888_Locogreencomparison.JPG.b64b65f109d072a71f375c26d8708665.JPG

 

The more blue/grey colour of the Aberdare comes from a combination of the increased grime and the overdone Vallejo satin varnish. In future I'd use a satin/gloss mix to get a glossier and make it easier to see where I had applied varnish whilst spraying.

 

Photos taken on Pentax K-x DSLR, stock lens, Aperture priority and +1 stop. Natural daylight on an overcast day.

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 17/11/2020 at 17:58, Penrhos1920 said:

What’s your Vallejo mix for GWR Green?

I used 5:2 Cam. Green 71.022 : Black for a match to precision enamel 1908-28 GWR green.

It looked very close under daylight and cool white LEDs - until I varnished it too heavily.

Not got the hang of spraying Vallejo acrylic varnishes yet.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to get back to layout work.    It’s been too long since I got the bulk of the goods shed built. It only needs doors, windows, chimney and down pipes.

So first up doors.

00BD1E56-94F2-4A04-8251-4DE828218EA2.jpeg.2bae1124a833e9194e1893bc5668c66c.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

Very nice job Indeed. Have you made the brass hinges yourself?

Yes. 0.3mm strip. One end squeezed around a 1mm drill bit for the hinge end, then cut to length and filed to a rounded end. Aligned with 0.7mm wire and glued in place with superglue.

There will be boltheads (Achers river transfers) once undercoated. Not sure whether to put bolt heads/flitch plates  on the outside too.

The bottom doors are for the road access and will be suspended sliding doors.

  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of quick stock upgrade while under coats on the shed doors dries.

Hornby 57’ Collett corridor bow end composite being detailed mostly following MRJ 247 article by Gerry Beale.

I removed the red “no smoking” triangles from the glazing with IPA but couldn’t shift the printed corridor handrails so they will have to do.

Likewise I don’t have any t-cut and the cutting polish I have would not shift the lower lining. Will have to try glass fibre burnishing brush.

BF5BAED1-F454-43AB-898F-FD33F9C6B278.jpeg.be5b732f308c958a7f1d399e0b6e0e45.jpeg

  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Really like the Aberdare, very nice build.  Have made a note of this thread for when I eventually get round to buying the Finney kit...

 

the GWR vallejo mix sounds worth a try, I just wish someone would commission them to do a uk rail range...

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.