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millerhillboy

Millerhillboys N gauge workbench

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Completed a short ballast train, got another 4 wagons over and above these ones.

 

The grampus weathered by the excellent Alba models.

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Posted (edited)

V3 also returned from a light encounter with Alba weathering, the photographs here are really not doing her justice. Dave has taken the edge of the sharpness of the out the can paintjob and just matted down and flattened everything a treat.

 

She's a lovely model, if I do say so herself and the gentle weathering has finished her off . Just needing final detailing, crew, lamps etc

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Edited by millerhillboy
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1 hour ago, millerhillboy said:

Managed to progress a few things that are lying about, mostly wagons

 

Trying my hand at 16 tonners, the weathering of which seems to be a subject in its own right. I'm not quite too sure how this has went. I think I like the colours and tones but I'm not sure about the rust spots, which I can't get out my head that I've applied with a tiny drill bit and I think it looks like that's what I've done.

 

Anyway, feedback always welcome, good back or indifferent.

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Hi,

I like the look of your 16t minerals... I'm certain there will be examples that weathered like that, weren't there 500,000? Sometimes I think these super close up photos don't do us any favours,  they look fine at normal viewing distances and 100% better than out of the box examples... nicely done>

Cheers

Duncan

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Thanks Duncan, appreciate your input.  You are right off course with your comment regarding the scale and harshness of the photography at this scale and I remember working with some paul bartlett pictures up in front of me whilst doing the weathering and thinking I'd done OK but when I see them there the rust spots do look like circles applied with a circular object, which I kind of suppose many rust spots would have been anyway.

 

They do look OK at NVD like you say and that's all I am for.

 

Thanks for your comments.

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At the risk of accelerating the process of my marbles getting lost.... I decided to attend to a recent delivery from the excellent Modelu3D

 

I like to have my locos lamped up, even if it does happen to sometimes end up showing the wrong headcode.

 

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Then after painting and dotting with a 0.3mm drill bit to replicate the lamp.

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Next up the equally excellent footplate crew.

 

Painting these are a barrel of laughs!!

 

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I also was still not quite satisfied with my 16 tonners so had another go. I wanted to soften the look of the rust spots and get it more blended in.

 

Not sure if I acheived that or not but I think these might be a little better, as always feedback welcome either way. You won't hurt my feelings :D

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Well done, more excellent work. I very much like the look of the wagons. One thing that isn't possible (with plastic models) is the battered look of the prototypes- often the sides and ends of the wagons were bowed out  (or in) where rough loading and unloading took their toll!

I remember working in the wagon shops at Darnall beating the panels out to a more 'square' shape, my ears still ringing!

Cheers

Duncan

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Yeah, agreed on the battered and bruised point. I've seen a few guys try it in bigger scales and I'm not even sure it works there so you can forget it with N gauge.

 

Thanks for your feeback though, its appreciated. I always think you've got a great eye with the colour palette you use for your weathering so if they work for you that's a good start IMO

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I’d say you’ve done a good, competent job there, Craig. In the scale you’re modelling and from the viewing distances you’ll employ these look just fine. Weathering 16 tonners is a subject all on its own and I’m still on the journey to a point where I’m truly satisfied with my own work.

These are well up to the state of the art though.

Seeing as you can’t truly replicate the dunts and skelps the bodysides experienced with plastic, paint effects are the next best option.

Unless you’re daft enough to build a fleet of etched ones!

 

Davy.

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I’d say you’ve done a good, competent job there, Craig. In the scale you’re modelling and from the viewing distances you’ll employ these look just fine. Weathering 16 tonners is a subject all on its own and I’m still on the journey to a point where I’m truly satisfied with my own work.

These are well up to the state of the art though.

Seeing as you can’t truly replicate the dunts and skelps the bodysides experienced with plastic, paint effects are the next best option.

Unless you’re daft enough to build a fleet of etched ones!

 

Davy.

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Thanks Dave

 always good to get feedback from a true expert. I think you are right about 16 tonners though, it does seem to be a subject in its own right.

 

another difficultyI find is trying to generate suitable variation accross a rake of them, you feel if you are doing the same thing time and time again, it probably wouldn't look like it in the end either but as you are working you tend to get sucked into it.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Been fiddling about with shortshank couplings, both NEM and original rapido variants. I'm finding that on a lot of stock there is a lot of room for manouevre.  Especially on NGS society kits

 

I'm using 3D printed couplings from 3DR on shapeways,

 

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/trains?tag=3dr

 

they offer rapido style couplings in a variety of shank lengths and a tester sort of pack to try different lengths.

 

Trying them on N gauge society build bogie bolster D kits

 

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The gap between the buffer beams even with the short shank rapido's is still 12mm. You'll note I'm missing buffers, as a few of them came off whilst I was fiddling so I decided to buy some finer oval buffers from NBrass, they should be 3.3mm long when fitted so I should still have a 5-6mm gap between buffer faces which is still loads TBH.

 

FWIW I'm using a test oval with 10.5" radius curves which is the minimum I will have on the end layout (if I ever get there) and 6mm between buffer faces is still loads.

 

Edited by millerhillboy
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Finished the bogie bolster coupling gap project with new oval buffers from N-Brass and the short shank couplers. The wagons still easily navigate 10” radius curves. 

 

The gap has came down by 4mm but looks much better than that alone. 

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