Lunds and "The Summit"

[Jim T]

I thought to mark the start of a project I've been thinking about for many years, I'd start a kind of record of my "2mm" modelling. The idea is to build a layout featuring on Ais Gill and Lunds Viaduct as they were in 1979-81-ish. This era was after the removal of the down siding at Ais Gill, but whilst the 'box, down siding, and trailing crossover were still in use. This will enable some basic operation - either watching the trains go round, or some simple scenarios - setting out the odd wagon, simulating engineering works and wrong line running, WCML Sunday morning diversions, steam specials etc., etc.

 

The shed is bought and erected and in the process of being made weather tight. I'm still working on the rebuilding of the cottage it's attached to so modelling has taken a back seat for a while but I've been accumulating suitable RTR rolling stock and kits for conversion. I say "(sort of) 2mm" because I'm time limited and to model full trains there are going to have to be a lot of shortcuts, the most significant of which will be the use of a lot of re-wheeled 1:148 items.

 

Here's the first - a Farish LMS 50' Period III Full Brake. These appeared fairly frequently in the Glasgow - Red Bank empty parcels, and infrequently in lieu of a Mark 1 BG on scheduled passenger services (I've found a couple of photos).

 

 

Bogies and couplings are removed and the first problem is separating the body and the chassis. There are clips above the solebar roughly level with the bogie pivots on each side, but on the Stanier coaches the solebar is virtually flush with the side and there's a little lip at the top of the solebar which I didn't want to damage. I made a little tool from a coffee stirrer, putting a blunt chisel point on it with a knife. The wood is at least as soft as the plastic of the coach side so shouldn't damage anything if it slips. Using the tool just inboard of the bogie pivot the body came off pretty easily.

 

 

I considered removing the roof but decided against as the clips look very flimsy and I didn't want to have to glue it back on. Next I went to work on the ends. Over the years, BR removed the steps and handrails and eventually the gangways too from virtually all of the vans left in service, so this is really a de-detailing project - nice and easy to start with... I found a good prototype picture of most of an end on the Vintage Carriages Trust Carriage Survey website: http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=4632

 

The precise treatment seems to have varied but this one, M31045, seems to have lost everything but the bottom step and lamp iron - I've assumed these are retained on both sides. The gangways are located on four plastic pins which go right through the end and are fairly easily removed by pressing on these pins, then using a pair of pliers on the bottom of the gangway. The remainder of the separately applied detail (the gangway hangers and the long handrail) locate into blind holes, so the hangers were cut away and the handrails were prised off with a fine screwdriver and pliers. I managed to break the first handrail at the bottom and it's requiring some patience to file it flush. Here's the result after some initial sanding / filing:

 

 

A little more sanding and some filler to plug the holes and this end is ready. I don't think I'll try to replicate the thin plating on the end where the gangway and steps have been removed - even 5 thou sheet would be well overscale and I reckon it's better to leave detail off than model it overscale.

 

The next stage will be stripping and repainting - how do folks do this in 2mm scale? A recommendation for primer and top coat (BR blue) would be appreciated.

[Izzy]

 

 

The next stage will be stripping and repainting - how do folks do this in 2mm scale? A recommendation for primer and top coat (BR blue) would be appreciated.

 

I have found that recent Farish seem to be moulded in a base colour appropriate for the finish so stripping isn't an advantage. Although bare surfaces need a primer I find that in order to keep paint coat thickness down and not obliterate detail I just put a top coat on. I use Railmatch enamel Blue as it seems as close a match as any other. It covers well even when thinned a bit. If handpainting don't over-brush or it will streak and show the base colour.

 

Have fun!

 

Izzy

[Orange Cat]

 

The shed is bought and erected and in the process of being made weather tight. I'm still working on the rebuilding of the cottage it's attached to so modelling has taken a back seat for a while

 

I'm in a similar position.

 

This sounds an interesting project. I look forward to seeing it develop.

[Flying Pig]

Interesting project as I have one of these in the same livery to update to BR blue condition. I would have thought that at the least the lettering will need to be removed before overpainting to avoid it showing through. Do you think the glazing can be removed or will the windows need masking?

 

BTW there are some notes on these vehicles as they were around 1980 on http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk (look under References & Inspiration), showing a number of individual detail variations.

[Jim T]

Interesting project as I have one of these in the same livery to update to BR blue condition. I would have thought that at the least the lettering will need to be removed before overpainting to avoid it showing through. Do you think the glazing can be removed or will the windows need masking?

 

BTW there are some notes on these vehicles as they were around 1980 on http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk (look under References & Inspiration), showing a number of individual detail variations.

 

 

Cheers!

 

I'll be taking the glazing out unless any of it is really caked up with glue.

 

The EM gauge 70s site is a great source of inspiration and info - there is also a lot of data on the Met Camm Mk1 Pullmans there.

[PaulCheffus]

Interesting project as I have one of these in the same livery to update to BR blue condition. I would have thought that at the least the lettering will need to be removed before overpainting to avoid it showing through. Do you think the glazing can be removed or will the windows need masking?

 

BTW there are some notes on these vehicles as they were around 1980 on http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk (look under References & Inspiration), showing a number of individual detail variations.

Hi

 

I have done a similar conversion and managed to get the roof plus windows out without breaking anything. I sprayed an undercoat of white primer before applying the Rail Blue.

 

Izzy I know what you mean about the panels at the end but I added them anyway in 5thou along with the support brackets.

 

Cheers

 

Paul