S7 scratch building

[Mol_PMB]

The version on the left makes more sense structurally, in that the diagonal member is in compression when supporting the weight of the open door. With traditional timber joints it's easier to make them strong in compression rather than tension, and a baulk of timber is fairly resistant to buckling in compression. Iron strapping is the opposite - it can be quite thin yet strong if loaded in tension, but in compression it tends to buckle.

[airnimal]

I am surprised I haven't had my leg pulled of this latest issue. Still you can't make a omelette without breaking eggs!  I have started to put the ironwork on the ends and chamfer the framing. 

The masking tape on the bottom of the headstock is protect the corners of the plastic from being bashed while I struggle with the build. 

 

[Regularity]

53 minutes ago, airnimal said:

I am surprised I haven't had my leg pulled of this latest issue.

Those of us who have scratch built from a paucity of information share you pain.

Everyone else knows better than comment!

[Dave John]

Foreman looks at wagon, cuffs apprentice round the ear and tells him  to hang those doors the other way up. I bet that happened too many times to count. 

 

A lifetime of engineering, I have seen almost everything the wrong way up. My commonest trick is ending up with left hand brake levers since I'm fitting them to an upside wagon. 

 

So Airnimal, if the rest of us that  actually make stuff pulled our own legs every time we made a mistake most of us would would be legless by now..... 

[MarcD]

It happens all the time in ship building. Sections of submarine hull out by 180 degrees. Water tight doors on the wrong bulkhead. One of the original Polaris subs had a 3degree set in its rudder as it was bent.

Marc

[Regularity]

13 hours ago, Dave John said:

if the rest of us that  actually make stuff pulled our own legs every time we made a mistake most of us would would be legless by now.

Well, turning to drink is one response to the problem, but hardly an ideal solution.

Edited March 20, 2021 by Regularity

[Adam88]

There is a picture in Noel Coates and Martin Waters' Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Album (1971) of a fish train where one of the vans has the external frames in V formation at one end and as an upside down V at the other.

Edited March 20, 2021 by Adam88

[airnimal]

A bit more progress has taken place today. The van is up on it's wheels and the correct shape V-irons found and applied.  I did managed to find another vacuum formed roof which has been cut down to size but may need a little trimming near the end of the build.

 

We have not been able to find a house that fits our needs ( her indoors needs ) in a location we would like. With it not being a large area there is not a lot on offer that we can afford. 

[Poggy1165]

On 18/03/2021 at 20:24, airnimal said:

Well I have got back to where I was before I decided that the planks were not correct but this time I hope I have it right. The wrong one will hopefully become a line side tool shed along with the brake van. Thinking about the NSR wagons I have recently made, they are amongst my favourite in all the wagons I have. I find the livery very pleasing and the wagons very simple in design. Coupled with the area of the Potteries with there canals and bottle kilns in which these wagons would  operate has it all for me. One problem I have I don't have a NSR engine to pull them. I did have a kit for a D class but I sold it because I didn't feel I could have make a good enough job of it. Loco building isn't for me although I have made plenty in the past I can never make them to a standard that pleases me.

Perhaps if there was a really good kit of an early NSR loco I might be tempted to have another go 

but I don't think that is very likely as I don't think that there are many NSR modellers about to warrant anybody a kit manufacturer to go down this route. I will have to keep my eye out for a second hand loco that could be converted to S7 standards.  Perhaps I could commission one from a good scratch builder, but who ?

 

 

One option for a NSR loco is the Gladiator kit for the LNWR SDX. The NSR bought two or three of these babies and so it is quite correct to finish one in North Stafford livery. (It is a (very) long term project for me.) I did have a photo of one of these engines in NSR livery, but I am not sure where it was published or where it has gone. However, I'm absolutely sure it was published somewhere. Whether the NSR made any detailed changes to their SDXs or just repainted them I'm afraid I have no idea.

[airnimal]

Thanks Brian, I was aware of the LNWR SDX but I think it would be to big for my needs. The is a photograph in NSR locomotives by Ken Hopkins. According to the text they were delivered in NSR livery with a NSR chimney.

 

I have put a bit more ironwork on including the crown plates. These have been made by my usual method of punching a hole with a paper punch and then cutting around with a pair of cutters on a turned mandrill. Cleaning up by hand has always been a bit hit and miss so I have made a tapered mandrill to lightly sand with a fine file in the mini drill. This was a lot quicker and the results were a lot sharper. 

 

 

 

 

[airnimal]

The wheelbase of this van is 9'6" and I am going to use 10' etched brakegear with a bit of manipulation 

It will be perfect. I will have to remove the bottom of the shoe to make it into a single hanging  type of shoe. These are a single sided etch so I have double them up but it means there isn't any detail on the back. I don't  think it's worth the effort to add another layer on the back where it won't be seen. 

[airnimal]

The brakegear has gone together well and fits the wheelbase with just the right amount of clearance between the wheels. Just the brake rack and handle to clean and fit and the rest of the body details.  

I am not sure where the brake handles come from but I will get them to fit.

Edited March 22, 2021 by airnimal

[airnimal]

I have used an Ambis brake rack that fitted the bill. I think it is a GWR one but they all look pretty much the same to me. One of the things I do is I solder a bit of scrap etch at the bottom of the fold to prevent the rack being squashed when handling any model. Then a couple of lace pins were were soldered in after the heads were reduced in the mini drill. When everything was bent to shape and placed on the van the position was noted and marked before removing back to the bench to be soldered up. Doing it this way makes the brakegear quite strong. I think there is nothing worse than squashed and flattened brake parts. That is the reason I never use plastic brakegear.

[Signalman Rich]

Mike, 

Thanks for the tip re making of crown plates.  Re: your post of last Thursday on making/obtaining a suitable loco.  You might like to consider the battery electric loco that used to reside at Oakamoor.  There are some good broadside views in the various NSR books.  The loco in glorious NSR livery is now in the NRM I believe. For you it would be  just like making one of your lovely wagons but with a cab in the middle of the body.   As an alternative starting point - as it is a similar loco - Jim McGeown 's Connoisseur Models have a very similar Midland Railway loco that might be worth exploring.  His instructions for the MR loco, which are available to download,  show some very simple ways of motorising using 4mm scale gears and motor on the 1/8" wagon axles as well as a chain drive for both axles.  It might be worth considering?

Best wishes and keep up the great work.

Rich

[wagonman]

The only 7mm scale NSR loco kit I'm aware of is the TaffVale/Dragon kit for the M class 0-4-4T

http://www.taffvale.wales/page1.php though I have not idea as to the quality of these kits.

 

There's rather more available in 4mm...

[Coal Tank]

Didnt Chowbent do a small tank loco

[airnimal]

Rich, thanks for the suggestion about the battery electric loco. It would make a perfect loco size wise but it was built in 1917. This is a little late for my period, but I could of course implement rule one. 

 

Richard, the same applies to the M class of locos built in 1907. All a little bit to late. If I ever do get to building this mythical layout I wish to set it in about 1890 / 1900 period.

 

John,  yes they did a class D which would be my preferred choice along with a DX or an ST class. 

I did have the kit of a D class from Chowbent but I sold it a couple of years ago when I was struggling  with building my chopper tank. 

 

I have spent several hours drilling holes for the Masterclub hexagonal bolts. I can only do so many before I have to have a break. 

[airnimal]

One side has all the bolts applied and one end as well. The other end has been drilled but as yet the bolts haven't been glued in. Just one side to do with and the locking bar to make and fit. I have made the first one but it will need a bit of refinement to make look like the photographs.  I think we are on the home straight now with the majority of the hardwork done. The roof is a bit rough and I will have to sand it down to make a better job of it. 

 

We have the grandsons tomorrow so very little model time. 

[airnimal]

Back to work after being a grandad yesterday.  

I have made a locking bar but putting it on the van I think i have made it from a wire that is too thick

I will make another from thinner wire and compare.

[Dave Hunt]

Mike,

 

It's worth remembering that in 7mm scale an inch is only (in round terms) 0.6mm or 22 thou. I've often looked at a piece of wire I'm abouit to use and thought, "That's too thin," only to find when measuring it that it is the correct size or even too thick.

 

Dave

[airnimal]

Dave, I have looked at the photographs and concluded that the first attempt using .7mm wire was too thick and I have exchanged it for .6mm which I think looks better.  

 

So this morning I have given the van several coats of paint. I first gave it a coat of grey primer before going over the body with the red oxide.  I wish I had gone straight to the red primer first because it looks as there are too many coats of paint on it now and the detail around the bolts has lost a bit of definition. 

[airnimal]

I have managed to scratch the new paint already trying to paint the roof. I have also noticed I have missed a chamfer of one of the long diagonal timbers. Perhaps I should have a bit more patience and let the paint dry for a longer period of time. I did think I could cut the chamfer now and touch up the paintwork later but I will leave it for the time being.

 

On a better note I had a letter from the hospital this morning saying my cancer is stable and not getting any worse and I dont have to have any chemotherapy yet.

[airnimal]

I have cut a new chamfer on the diagonal frame that I had missed earlier. I masked it off and lightly sprayed it again with good results but there are still a couple of bits which will need a bit of attention. 

Now it is on its wheels I feel more confident that this van will join the other NSR wagons to form a small train. 

[airnimal]

In the end I went for .6mm wire for the locking bar. It just needs a safety chain and locking pin to complete the door furniture. Buffers and axleboxes, springs and then the lettering to finish off. 

[Mol_PMB]

No surprise, this is looking excellent. Great work!