RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 18, 2017 (edited) I discovered a photo album of industrial locos that got me all inspired to make something, so out came the box of donors. The caveat here is that nothing I make is a scale model and would not stand up to scrutiny, but hopefully I can give a passable representation, like my model of Portbury. I'll see if anyone can guess what it's going to be as we go along. Bachmann Junior chassis with wheels swapped for HO USA outline 0-6-0 wheels. Electrotren/Golden Valley Hobbies cylinders and motion. Needs extending, a second donor supplies the plastic. A Great British Locomotives GWR 4575 smokebox. Shortened, lowered. The tanks are too tall, need reducing in height. Edited October 26, 2017 by Corbs 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Yorkshire engine Company 0-6-0T? http://www.rocks-by-rail.org/exhibit/yec-2521/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 19, 2017 Wow, I thought it was going to be a bit more difficult to guess! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 19, 2017 Posed with a Greg cab for the time being... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 19, 2017 Needed a firebox. Needed a cab framework. Needed a bunker. Needed some of the bodger's buddy - filler primer. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 20, 2017 Here's the ensemble posed together as it stands. The roof and cab sides have been marked for chopping, to give that distinctive cab shape. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2017 Various incisions have been made into the patient, and it was all getting rather messy so I gave it all a blast of filler primer. This is good for showing up all the bad bits (of which there are many). Hopefully the basic shape is beginning to show through. I've added a strip of styrene to the running plate which needs tidying up, but hopefully breaks up the slab-sided-ness of the Junior basis. Currently waiting for more green putty to dry. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 T*rd polishing; Ninja level! Nice work, sir. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 23, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 23, 2017 Thanks mate the only thing I'm pondering over at the moment is that the cab should extend all the way to the edge of the running plate. Possibly I should saw the cab in half longitudinally and space it out, but it's quite severe surgery. I might just have to live with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 24, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2017 Last night I was experimenting with making the cab sides. Originally I was using styrene strip to make up the shape I need. It's too shabby and will need a lot of filler. On the other side I used a cutout of one single piece of styrene which is much better. Will probably redo the other side. The bufferbeams have been extended by sawing a bufferbeam from the donor chassis in half and gluing to the originals. You can also see where I've started to hack out the distinctive cab windows. Here is is posed with Portbury showing the size difference. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 24, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) Looking at video and pictures of the prototype I realised that the cab needs to be squatter and lower, so a trim is required. In fact it needs disassembling and cutting, as the upper part of the cab is too tall. The angle of the cab sides needs to be eased and the corner of the roof curved more, so some adjustment is in order. Edited October 24, 2017 by Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 25, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2017 So, as mentioned above, the cab was too 'Lambton' and not enough 'Yorkshire'. Some drastic surgery required. The cab was torn apart, side panels remade, front and back sheets cut down and roof re-attached with the sides pushed out at the top. Then the saddle tank needed shortening, I hadn't wanted to do this but it wasn't working as it was. It's very rough at the moment. Had a slathering of filler, a quick sand and some primer but needs more shaping. But as far as shape goes, I'm a lot happier. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 26, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2017 Getting somewhere now. Much sanding, filling and sanding later. A coat of satin black as a reveal coat. I have cut into the rear cabsheet and made the cutout seen in the reference pic. (not my pic) 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted October 31, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2017 What became glaringly obvious once I'd got to a certain point was that I'd messed up the measurements on the saddle tank and should not have cut it down in height (as I did with Portbury, which is quite a bit smaller). The pictures should explain what I did. Tank removed off, got another saddle tank donor out of the drawer, cut down in length and welded back together. Now I'm waiting for the paint to harden. Only a rough coat as plenty of details still to add before final painting. The little box on the front of the cab was made from plasticard cut to shape and green putty sanded to get the curve. I think proportionally it works a lot better now. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpplumy Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 I can't help but feel that something seems off with the buffer beams Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Great model! I think you did a fantastic job! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 1, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2017 I can't help but feel that something seems off with the buffer beams Too tall possibly. I eyeballed the whole thing so it's entirely possible they are more like 50550 bufferbeams. That said, YEC did two distinct types on this class of loco. Looks like the taller ones didn't have the notches at the side, but I liked the look of them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 2, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2017 (edited) Well... what happened was..... It was going quite well. Handrails fitted along with dome and water filler cap from RT Models (excellent service as always). Painted wasp stripes (a bit grubby but ok overall better than I thought they would be), tidied up a bit. Was really happy with it.... .... BUT I think I left some moisture on the saddle tank when I sprayed the last coat, and it peeled back and reacted badly around the handrails. So it's a case of waiting for it all to dry, sanding it back and trying again. Since the pics I've added some rivets to the cab (archers transfers). Hopefully if this darn paint hardens I can try fixing it all together soon. Edited November 3, 2017 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 4, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2017 (edited) Added cabside handrail (recovered from the J94 to 50550 project - nothing goes to waste around here!), you can just about make out the rivet detail (not as obvious as I'd hoped though). Managed to restore the paint on the saddle tank, just about (it did occur to me that I'll be caking it in grime anyway. Next up is whistle, a few bits of pipework detail, lubricator, motion bracket, fix it all together. Unfortunately the RC Receiver isn't working so I'm hoping a replacement can be sorted. Edited November 4, 2017 by Corbs 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signaller69 Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Very nice work as always Corbs, do enjoy your Industrial loco builds. I have also been a little underwhelmed by the Archer rivet transfers thus far when modding rtr wagons - they were much finer than those already present, and didn't show up well, especially after painting, but then they are to HO scale and the rtr versions probably well over scale in fairness - I'm wondering if '0' scale ones would be a closer match?! But I shall persevere, must get on with applying some more soon! Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 4, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2017 Thanks Martyn, in fact it was your Barclay 0-6-0ST that lead to me starting this loco. I think you may be right, I shall see if I can get some O Scale ones and if they show up more! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signaller69 Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 (edited) Thanks Martyn, in fact it was your Barclay 0-6-0ST that lead to me starting this loco. I think you may be right, I shall see if I can get some O Scale ones and if they show up more! Thanks, I might do another Barclay ("Illtyd" being sister to "Islwyn") at some point. It would be interesting to see the result using O scale rivets (if the spacing is anything like correct), my thinking is they may match RTR wagon rivets better than the HO ones. I'm going to try to have a look at them at Warley show. Can I ask where you buy your Bachmann USA wheelsets? And which loco are they for? Thanks again, Martyn. Edited November 4, 2017 by Signaller69 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 4, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2017 I get them from the Bachmann parts store, always had fast service from them. http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_162&products_id=1034 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 Might I ask Corbs, do you have any advice for getting straight lines on cutting the tanks? Its just my attempts have resulted in an over use of filler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2017 Hmm, I just mark both ends and use a deep razor saw as levelly as I can. What saw are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now