Tandem Queries & Scissors slip-up

[nick_bastable]

Actually, I did see Rount Tuits on Eileens Emporium website, along with some other nefarious items.

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

I have offered them to the shop but no takers  ( the master plan to retire on the profits at 87 is now thwarted )

 

 

Nick

[Ian Smeeton]

I will have toput off my purchase,sadly

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Caley Jim]

I will have toput off my purchase,sadly

They'll be out of stock anyway.  Nobody ever has them when you want one!

 

Jim

[Ian Smeeton]

Done a bit, & left a bit.

 

I have to save something up, otherwise, what am I going to do tomorrow.

 

 

[Ian Smeeton]

Let's try again, and remember to upload the photos before posting!

 

 

Timbers trimmed. two more closure rails added, two more Vees, and stock rails at the bottom and at either end

 

 

The Loooong view.

 

Regards, and thanks for all the support.

 

Ian

[Valentin]

Since I discovered the solder balls a few years ago, I never looked back at any other way for soldering the rails to the PCB timbers

 

As recommended in the "Track" book I bought this of eBay:

 

 

Ant here is one of the turnouts i built very recently:

 

 

Out of curiosity, why are you trimming the timber after soldering the rails?

Edited January 27, 2018 by Valentin

[Ian Smeeton]

I only trimmed the timbers afterwards because when I started trimming them to size beforehand, most were lifting off the Pritt Stick -type glue used to attach them to the template, and having to be reglued.

 

Pure laziness, in other words.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Ian Smeeton]

Sorry Valentin, I meant to say that your turnout looks absolutely cracking.

 

I need more practice. I think that I am going to get it, too, as there another 17 points to build yet.

 

Anyway, onwards & sideways.

 

 

Tonights episode starts with the addition of the remaining closure rails, and a couple of check rails, as well as the remaining wing rails.

 

All well and good, but checking with a digital wagon (finger powered) I found a couple of tight spots around the diamond. Strange that, because I am sure that it was running through last week.

 

Ah, well. Could be a heat gun job. We'll see. I will have to have a think. I may be able to get away with a file.

 

Regards, all, thanks for all the support & ideas.

 

Ian

 

[nick_bastable]

that  looks the dogs dangly bits the trick  is getting it to work  

 

Nick

[Ian Smeeton]

Very true Nick

 

Lecktrickery soon, after the last check rails & Tiebars are in.

 

I have only used moving sleepers in the fiddle yard, where it doesn't matter, from the viewers point of view.

 

The front end will have to be a bit differemnt.

 

I haven't yet decided on the method.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[nick_bastable]

the easitrac pivot works well as a tiebar

 

Nick

[Ian Smeeton]

Thanks, for the suggestion, Nick. I shall have a look at them.

 

Meanwhile, I seem to be slipping.

 

The single slip has been sitting on its plinth for the last few weeks.

 

A trip to the 2mm Area Group on Sunday meant I was able to blag borrow Laurie's point filing jig.

 

 

 

The closure rails have been filed up out of a single piece of rail each. Gauging them was fun.

 

The lower curved one went in first, followed by the curved stock rail.

 

Wagon pushing followed.

 

Then there were two attempts at the straight closure rails, before I was happy. More wagon pushing. Finally, the upper check rail/wing rail forming the K crossing went in. Followed by more wagon pushing.

 

A couple of check rails to addd, and Bob's your aunties' brother-in-law.

 

Nothing could be that straightforward, could it?

 

Regards, and again, thanks for all the suggetsions

 

Ian

 

[Ian Smeeton]

Finishing touches to all three tonight.

 

The Scissors crossing had the remaining check rails added, except for the two on the middle of the diamond. I will add those later.

 

Happy to say that tilting the work board, a wagon ran through under gravity with only a couple of slight hesitations. A touch with the soldering iron, and a little levering with a scalpel eased the flangeways enough.

 

Last four check rails were added to the single slip, and again, a wagon was run through under gravity to check clearances. Only one flangeway needed easing.

 

Finally, the diamond. All great, except for that aberration of a misplaced check rail. A bit of brute force, and a few touches with the soldering iron removed it. Another one was quickly fabricated, and soldered into the correct spot.

 

 

I have now bought a 1:7 filing jig, and 1:7 Crossing jig from the 2mm Association. While the Vees on the Scissors and Single slip were filed up freehand, and are 1:7, I thought that I would be pushing it to file up another 17 1:7 Vees. The assemply jig does make life an awful lot easier, too.

 

This is probably my last post on this thread, unless there are any questions. The next few nights will be devoted to filing up crossing Vees, then assembling the Crossings in the jig.

 

By the time I have finished those, I am hoping that the weather will have eased enough to let me complete the outstanding carpentry, and then return to exile in the shed.

 

I get the feeling that my temporary tenancy here on the dining room table will soon come to an end.

 

Best regards

 

Ian

 

 

[nick_bastable]

excellent work but without referral to the templot I still feel unsure about some of the check rails 

 

keep the thread going I would like to see the layout develop you can always change the thread title

 

Nick

 

edited for failure to read properly

Edited February 3, 2018 by nick_bastable

[Ian Smeeton]

The layout already has a thread: see signature.

 

I have run a wagon through under the finger, feeling for any tight spots, and also under gravity, looking for any vertical movement, and it all 'seems' Ok.

 

Electrifying the thing may well have me throwing toys from my pram, and any other around.

 

Hey Ho.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Ian Smeeton]

Pondering the next Switches & Crossings, I bought a 1:7 filing jig, and a 1:7 Crossing soldering jig from the 2mm FS Assoc. shop.

 

I had already filed up some 1:7 crossings by eye for the scissors and single slip, but looking ahead, I needed to file upo and assemble 9 1:7 crossings, so it made sense to buy the juigs.

 

Onward.....

 

I scoured the templot plan, and made a list of those sizes that I would need. Most were pretty straightforward, and I would be able to borrow a jig for the only 1:8.

 

However, some of the points were  1:5, 1:5.5, and 1:5.75 crossings.

 

Without completely redrawing the plans, I was having some trepidations about filing these up.

 

As ever, take a 'thumb in bum, brain in neutral' type of job, just like Aristotle in the bath, and let the mind wander.

 

Eureka!!

 

I had bought a couple of 0.5 X 3mm  brass strips from Eileens Emporium to help keep diamond crossings etc all in line.

 

I thought "What if?..." while out walking the dog.

 

I set to  with almost the entire contents of the toolbox on the dining room table, the brass strips, an offcut of chipboard shelf and two map pins. Not to mention the dremel, soldering iron, mole wrench and left handed hammer.

 

 

I printed off some 1mm Graph paper from t'interwbby, and glued it to the shelf.

 

I then drilled the two pieces of brass strip with a 1mm bit and a pin vice (the dremel was useless for this) 2 holes in one piece, and one in the other.

 

The strip with the two holes was lined up along the edge of the printed section of the graph paper, with the second piece of brass pinned through the first at one end, forming a pivot. the first piece of brass was then pinned at t'other end, so I now have a securely pinned piece, and one which is free to swing round.

 

 

A piece of masking tape is used to secure the swinging strip to the shelf, giving me an infinitely adjustable jig.

 

Filing up still has to be done by eye, but it can be checked against the angle formed by the two pieces of brass strip, before the two sections of rail which form the crossing Vee are soldered together.

 

A piece of Blue Tack holds the rails in place against the brass strip.

 

Lo and behold, accurate crossing Vees in any size or scale that you could wish for.

 

The only thing that I would change, would to be to use some slightly thicker pieces of brass, perhaps 1mm, so that the Code 40 rails are flush with the top, but I can always pick up anothe couple of bits at an exhibition.

 

For larger (or smaller) scales, just vary the thickness of the strip to suit.

 

I hope that this helps someone (anyone?)

 

Regards

 

Ian

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ian Smeeton]

As the Apex of the angle moves as the swinging brass strip is swung, I measured using a digital vernier, 55mm from the angle and then lined up the swinging brass strip on the 10mm line at the aporopriate point to give me a 1:5.5 crossing Vee.

 

White tack used to hold the brass in place, then filed up the rails for the Vee.

 

I cheated, and used a 1:6 filing jig for one side, then filed the other side on the edge of the vice. checking against the angle.

 

First one then the other.

 

 

More white tack to hold the first rail in place against the Apex and the solid strip of brass, then the second rail was offered up.

 

So far so good as the fella said  passing every ten floors after he had jumped off a high building.

 

 

A little flux, some solder and a touch with the iron, and the joint was made.

 

 

Checked against the Templot printout, and I reckon that's as close as any gnats crotchet.

 

Regards

Ian

[Junctionmad]

an

PS Who sells elbow grease. I am told I will need plenty tomorrow!

 

it’s stocked near glass hammers , sky hooks and skirting ladders in every hardware store , just ask the person at the counter

[Ian Smeeton]

Skirting ladders, eh,

 

I bet the Missus has hidden mine.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Caley Jim]

it’s stocked near glass hammers , sky hooks and skirting ladders in every hardware store , just ask the person at the counter

Long stands and tartan paint are usually in the same aisle. If you're lucky, they might even have buckets of steam.

 

Jim

[Ian Smeeton]

Any pigeon's milk?

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Caley Jim]

and the procrastinator's dream, a round tuit...

Nah!  They're always out of stock!

 

Jim (who's had some on back order from several sources for years)

[Ian Smeeton]

A fruitful and inspiring trip to the North Mercia 2mm area group on Sunday meant that I was ready to improve the scissors crossing.

 

I had filed up a vee which should have been a 1:3.86 crossing angle, however, it wasn't.

 

This threw out the geometry on the central diamond, making it a little wide to gauge.

 

So, out with the soldering iron and the desoldering sucker.

 

I just could not get enough heat into the joints to let me lift the relevent rails.

 

Drastic action. Out with the heat gun.

 

I have used this successfully in the past, although it is a bit on the powerful side. A quick modification to the nozzle to cut down the hot air outlet, and I was ready to go.

 

The first wing rail came up without difficulty.

 

The next, I managed to delaminate one of the timbers

 

The third was a little more recalcitrant, and delaminated three of the crossing timbers.

 

The Vee itself came up fairly easily, thank goodness.

 

 

Not fun, this. Worse, the opposite stock rail had developed a pronounced bend. Severely buckled.

 

Walk the dog. Ponder.

 

Raid the kitchen for sonme aluminium foil.

 

Back to the shed and the heat gun

 

Some useful spring clips were used to hold several layers of the foil creating a heat sink/reflective mask.

 

Then back to the heat gun to remove the buckled rail, which came up nice and easy.

 

 

Some success, at least, and I will make sure that I use the foil mask next time.

 

Next, the delaminated strips of copper. What to do.

 

More dog walking, more pondering.

 

Memories surfaced regarding our slug problem.

 

Self adhesive copper tape used to repel slugs from delicate pot plants.

 

A new roll, a 2mm strip cut off, and cut down into 4 mm long strips.

 

Well, they have stuck to the PCB, however beer was calling, so I haven't yet tried to solder to them

 

I suspect that the glue will not hold when heat is applied, however, once the heat is removed it should be OK. There are enough timbers which did not delaminate, so they should hold up if I solder them first, leaving the rep[lacement ones till last. Here's hoping.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[bécasse]

Dealing with delaminated sleepers:

1. Hold the rail in place by hook or by crook (tack soldering a piece of wire along the top of the rail in question plus adjacent OK rails is one way if all else fails).

2. Use a 0,7m drill to drill down through the sleeper on the outside of the rail and down through the baseboard.

3. Cut a length of 0,7mm ø hard brass wire (Alan Gibson Workshop is one supplier) to be 1cm longer than the thickness of baseboard.

4. Push the cut length of the wire down the drilled hole until the top end is just below the top of the rail and solder it to the rail.

5. Bend over slightly the end of the wire that protrudes through the underside of the baseboard sufficiently to prevent the wire from rising (it will be a tight fit anyway).

6. When each of the delaminated sleepers have been dealt with in turn use a rat-tail file to shape the soldered wire to more closely represent a chair.

 

I have to admit to having successfully used the same technique to rescue a short length of plastic track whose "chairs" had been sheared off by an accident (dropped baseboard when taking down at a show) - but that needed some exceptionally nifty work with the soldering iron to avoid totally melting the sleepers.

[Ian Smeeton]

That sounds like a good way forward.

 

I might try it with something thinner, though, as I am soldering rails direct to the copperclad, rather than using chair plates. (I saw Laurie Adams using those on Sunday, life (mine anyway) is too short for that)

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Regards

 

Ian