Simple copperclad turnout construction

[hayfield]

I think I posted on the old web some pictures and notes on how I build turnouts in groups, these notes are for beginers and I use simple techniques that all can use to make turnouts that work with minimun fuss. Sorry to dissapoint those who preffer V's built as per prototype etc but as the title say's Simple with the hope it might encourage other to have a go.

 

 

I was asked to build some turnouts for someone who is building a shunting plank, 4 x Y's and a right hand turnout. The request was for them to be as small as possiable so I designed them to A4 size (30" radius ?). I did this work with Templot but you could use any templates/plans.

 

I used 50mm track centres, so when placing the plans on to the board mark out the centre lines so all is square. You may find with some plans that turnouts will merge into each other by a couple of sleepers, so they fit within the track centre lines. Also where the timbers of two adjoining turnouts meet making one long timber then there might be some adjustment needed. I use spray mount to fix the templates to the building board, you can fix the plans on your layout board if you wish.

 

 

Next to fitting the sleepers, I use C&L sleepers as the sides are nice and square, they are also double sided and made from fiberglass. Copperclad sleepers can also be obtained from various groups (EM etc) and suppliers like Marcway.

 

I stick the sleepers down again with spraymount as they have to be lifted and sent to the user, when I build for myself I also use this method as I find it easier to work on my workbench. If sticking directly to the layout board use a stronger glue (PVA, Epoxy etc). The only tips I can give for cutting the timbers is to use a sharp wirecutter, file the ends square and cut the longest timbers first so you can use the end pieces for the smaller timbers to eliminate wastage. These turnouts took about 17' of PCB strip and I guess I wasted about 1/2". I always try and look ahead to the next jobs and see if what I am doing would affect them. The next posting will show how I sequence the fitting of the V's

 

Plans can be sourced from many places, if you are thinking of building a few turnouts of differing sizes or want them to either a size or radius, or just like computer aided designing then Templot will fully repay the small investment in buying it. If you join the EM Gauge society (and I guess P4etc) then a set of turnout plans is included with the joining materials. C&L sell very good plans (I have quite a few) and there is a site Handmade tracks http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks-Printable-Track-Templates-s/11.htm which give you printable plans (they are in HO scale but will match Peco track) and I guess other places where they are obtained

[Allegheny1600]

Hi John,

Many thanks indeed for this post! This is exactly the sort of thing i need to eventually get me into trackbuilding.

Evidently, i shall be watching with interest!

Cheers,

John E.

[hayfield]

John thanks for the comment, there is too much myth about track building. Its like all skills once you have been shown what to do and praticed a bit all clicks into place.

 

 

As you can see very few tools or gauges are needed for 00, I fitted the far left V first then fitted the V part of the center left turnout leaving the stock rail part unsoldered at this stage.

 

 

The right hand turnouts V was fitted next but only soldered the 1st 2 sleepers of the upper rail as this needs to be set from the turnout above it.

 

The V's are made simply by fileing them up on a piece of 2x1 off cut (takes a few seconds once you have the hang of it) and they are soldered in place using the track plan and mk1 eyeball, just tack each end of the V (about 5 sleepers along) and check for alignment, if its out just un-solder and move it a bit once its in place solder the other rail in place. Once you are happy with the fit solder the rails to the other sleepers.

 

I have also where needed extended the V rail into the next turnouts stock rail, no need to have any rail breaks in the turnout at this point of the build

 

 

The last V fitted and the upper rail from the previous turnout is soldered in place using the V to gauge from. I have soldered up the long stock rail at the bottom of the turnouts, which spans 3 of them, as this anchors all these sleepers. Then I have started soldering up 2 of the other stock rails.

 

 

All the stock rails are now soldered in place ready for the switch rails to be fitted.

[hayfield]

Switch rails are simply filed up, cut to size and bent to shape.

 

 

Simply clip the switch rail into place with the gauges, solder the rail to 1 sleeper and check its still in the correct place, its a simple process to adjust the rail if its only attached to 1 sleeper. When your happy with the position solder up the rest of the jounts using both roller gauges and a wing rail gauge.

 

 

Building on a board means you can spin it arround to fit the other switch rail, test with a wagon then fit the check rails and check again. Repeat the process with the other turnouts.

[hayfield]

With the switch and check rails fitted, and all the turnouts tested by rolling a wagon through them. the electrical part is the next job. Using a mini drill and slitting disc, electrical isolation cuts are made in the switch rails (just before the check rails) on each turnout and isolation gaps are cut in the copperclad sleepers.

 

 

Using wires and crocodile clips I test out the turnouts after fitting the tiebars and make any adjustments that are needed,

 

Yes its an old Mainline LNER J72 painted in GWR colours, (I brought this loco in the late 70's and its great for testing turnouts) I also use a 0-6-0 tank loco with Romfords but where RTR locos are to be used the J72 is a good guide. I have not cut the isolation gaps between the V's and the next or adjoining turnout as this would mean extra wires for testing. But will be done before delivery.

 

I hope this has showed how easy its is to do multiple turnouts formations, its just like building them singly but all in one go, and it should perform slightly better than 4 single units connected together.

 

Here is a link to my earlier posting on building turnouts http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/2178-copperclad-turnout-construction/ it goes into more detail of building the V's and switch rails and a few other details on construction ideas

[ants]

Hello

 

They look very good

 

Regards

 

Ants

[hayfield]

I have been asked to build a pair of connecting curved turnouts, I thought I would share this as the build is similar to above but there is to my mind a deffinate build squence, but more of that later. Sorry about the state of the work bench !!

 

 

Out comes my larger building board, this one is 4' long, I have another cut in half and 2 much smaller. I could have done with one about 2'3" but then the next set will be 2' 4". Usual start of sticking the plans to the board with Spraymount then I sprayed the plan with it so I can stick the sleepers to the plan.

 

This set of turnouts will form the entrance to a small fiddle yard, they are on the curve to save space, but space is still an issue. I used the outside (top) line as the datum and used a B switch and 1 in 7 crossing angle. this gives a slightly sharper curve than needed on the 2 exit roads, but saves space and seperates the tracks quicker slightly increasing the length of the storage roads

[RedgateModels]

Thanks for posting this up, I'm thinking about tackling a Marcway O gauge kit sometime soon

[hayfield]

Thanks for posting this up, I'm thinking about tackling a Marcway O gauge kit sometime soon

 

I have only made a couple of 0 gauge turnouts (sold the first one but the second has remained unsold, still it goes on Ebay when they offer free listing so nothing lost) using SMP copperclad strip and R#Peco code 125. The basics are the same, a bit more work fileing (clamping the rail to a block of wood is a real plus when fileing.

 

If you are using flatbottom rail then I leave the the inside part of the flatbottom rail on the switch intact to assist soldering to the tiebar. Also you will need to file away the flatbotton part of the stock rails where the switch closes against it. There is a good tutorial about building turnouts in HO using flatbottom rail on http://www.handlaidtrack.com/

 

Look forward to seeing it on a thread

[hayfield]

I used to build straight turnouts starting with the straight stock rail, now I preffer to build all my turnouts from the V as this is the natural center point.

 

 

So the only place to start is the right hand V

 

 

Next is to start with the next V, note I have continued the upper V rail into the stock rail of the next turnout.

 

 

Once the V's are in place the 2 remaining stock rails are soldered in place, note the boart has been turned 180' to make life easier. Now the switch rails can be fitted.

[hayfield]

The switch rails were filed, cut to length and bent up before (I bend the rail at the tiebar end roughly to shape on curved turnouts to keep the switch rail away from the stock rail on the inside of the curve) soldering to the sleepers, I did one side first then turned the board around then did the other side, next was making and fitting the check rails.

 

 

After testing with a wagon all runs Ok so the next job iis to cut the isolation breaks in the sleepers and rails. Then testing with power to see that all runs well.

 

I have left the rail ends longer than usual, at the toe end it was requested as it is to be fitted over an angled base board join.

 

Now on to 2 L/H turnouts next

[steve22]

Hi John,

 

I've just come over to here from betehumane's posting. I'm very glad I did, this is all very informative, whetting my appetite. I really must take the plunge sometime. Don't worry about the mess on your workbench, I'll bet many of us thought our computer screens had just become mirrors!

 

Steve.

[RedgateModels]

I have only made a couple of 0 gauge turnouts (sold the first one but the second has remained unsold, still it goes on Ebay when they offer free listing so nothing lost) using SMP copperclad strip and R#Peco code 125. The basics are the same, a bit more work fileing (clamping the rail to a block of wood is a real plus when fileing.

 

If you are using flatbottom rail then I leave the the inside part of the flatbottom rail on the switch intact to assist soldering to the tiebar. Also you will need to file away the flatbotton part of the stock rails where the switch closes against it. There is a good tutorial about building turnouts in HO using flatbottom rail on http://www.handlaidtrack.com/

 

Look forward to seeing it on a thread

 

The Marcway kits are bullhead and at £17.50 a lot cheaper than buying a Peco turnout. I'll see how I go, but the O gauge micro layout in my head might even have all handbuilt track

[hayfield]

The Marcway kits are bullhead and at £17.50 a lot cheaper than buying a Peco turnout. I'll see how I go, but the O gauge micro layout in my head might even have all handbuilt track

 

Providing you have the correct gauges there should be no problems and you can build the turnouts to whatever size you require. I have used Marcway to buy SMP products and the service they offer is first class, I understand their products are very good. So you should have fun. Code 100 is a little harder work than code 75 so ) gauge will need a little extra filing.

 

I now use C&L products as their sleepers are Fiberglass (Marcway offer fiberglass as an option) but rather than the sleepers being cut with a guillotine (the SMP sleepers they provided me with varied in width) are cut by routing. This gives a uniform width and a very square cut (not squashed).

 

But as SMP sleepers I brought from the old suppliers were just as variable, I never complained and never gave Marcway the chance to rectify the problem, I may just have got a bad sample.

 

Good luck on the build, and Steve do dip your toe in the water its good fun.

[RedgateModels]

Forgive this possibly obvious question, but who are SMP? I've heard their products mentioned a lot but don't seem to see them listed anywhere, not on the Marcway site. Do they do O gauge?

 

As I said, I'm a complete handbuilt track novice (well, not even that, I'm just talking about it ) so forgive the silly questions .....

[gordon s]

SMP or Scaleway as they were sometimes known, were sold to Marcway. SMP used to offer turnout kits and do make lengths of flexible track. The flexible is listed on the Marcway site here.

 

http://www.marcway.co.uk/ooempw.htm

 

Since I went down this route, I have noticed that the SMP bullhead rail is a fraction narrower to the rail offered by C & L finescale. Until now I have used SMP but I will look at C & L flexible in future. One of the things I have found with SMP is that the flexibility to form a curve is improved by cutting the web on the rear of the flexible base. Without doing that, there is a tendency for a curve to appear as a set of short dog legs rather than a smooth curve. It's no big deal, but I would recommend cutting the web to assist.

 

I haven't got a full length of the C & L product, but I suspect looking at the construction of their flexible base, it may not have that problem as the sleepers are only joined alternately on each side and as such are more free to move as you curve the track.

[i-gadget]

Having closely followed the excellent 'tutorials' by hayfield - thanks John! - I decided my next OO 'masterpiece' would be all handbuilt points, (C&L copperclad etc; and subsequently purchased at the Epsom show last weekend), designed around

Templot (still to be purchased) and SMP flexible track.

However the only places I could easily find SMP advertised (no doubt there are others) were Marcway and Blacksmith Models. One compelling reason for selecting SMP is that it is considerably cheaper than C&L.

 

I do though have some C&L flexible track and can confirm Gordons supposition that their track webbing is joined on alternate sides. Also, after every ninth sleeper there is no join on either side, effectively creating

moveable sections of (9) sleepers.

 

Based on Gordons comments, I may possibly stick with C&L flexible track.....

 

 

John

[RedgateModels]

Just realised how close Marcway are to my gaff, and conveniently close to Meadowhall - conversation with SWMBO

 

 

"Fancy a trip to Meadowhall dear?"

 

 

"Why, what have you been up to?"

 

 

"Nothing yet dear ....."

 

 

[martin_wynne]

SMP or Scaleway as they were sometimes known, were sold to Marcway. SMP used to offer turnout kits and do make lengths of flexible track. The flexible is listed on the Marcway site here.

 

http://www.marcway.co.uk/ooempw.htm

 

Hi Gordon,

 

Marcway appear to be keeping SMP as a separate entity with its own web site. The full list of SMP turnout kits is here:

 

http://www.smpscaleway.com

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[steverabone]

One warning about double sided copperclad sleepers. If you pin the track down to the baseboard it is possible to get a permament short circuit. I had awful trouble with this some time ago when, for the first time, I used double sided sleepers. being in the fiddle yard I'd decided to pin rather than glue the track.

 

The pins conducted the electricity to the underside of the sleepers. Inevitably there were pins through opposing sides of the gapped sleepers so a short circuit was almosr guaranteed. If you pin the track it is essential to gap the top side of the sleepers on both sides of the pins.

[gordon s]

Now you tell me....

 

Took me hours and hours to work that one out a few months back. I had no idea that was the cause until I totally lifted the pointwork and it was fine. Put it back and pinned it down and there was the short again. Finally the penny dropped....

[hayfield]

Glad to be of use and can realy recommend Martin's Templot.

 

SMP was owned by the company that sells Craftsman locos, they sold the SMP brand and stock to Marcway. SMP components were cheaper that C&L, however I stopped buying them when the price differential got very close.

 

I prefer C&L for the reasons I stated before, though I have not looked at the prices recently.

 

If I build a turnout for someone else I always make the point that if useing dropper wires through the sleepers an isolation slit should be used or use different sleepers.

 

I have had a couple of chats with the people at Marcway, do pop in and have a look at all they have to offer. Wish I still had a good model railway shop on the door step.

 

I have a couple of curved turnouts to build over the next few days and need to do some painting on a couple of locos, pity I have to work tomorrow.

[BoD]

Just realised how close Marcway are to my gaff, and conveniently close to Meadowhall

 

Is it within reasonable walking distance of the station there?

[Welly]

^^^

No it's far to walk from Meadowhall. It's easier to take the tram from Sheffield station and get off at Attercliffe.

 

Map

 

Bear left out of the tram stop along Chippingham Street/Shortridge Street. Turn right at Attercliffe Road. Both MG Sharpe and Marcway are on the same side of Attercliffe Road and Marcway is furthest. Sorry I can't remember the exact locations only that Sharpe is nearest. I have been to both shops using the tram.

[BoD]

Thanks Welly.