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  • RMweb Gold
1 minute ago, lezz01 said:

If you take Hornby magazine Jonathan there have been multiple articles for this very subject over the last couple of years. If you don't take the mag I'll have a look see over the weekend and scan what I can find send it to you in a PM.

Regards Lez.  

 

Hi Lez, I don't take any mags now only BRM online with my gold subscription so any help would be appreciated especially photos. Thanks.

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  • RMweb Gold

There is a how to video on youtube Jonathan. I haven't been able to find anything suitable in this years Hornby mag to help but there are a lot of wiring diagrams on google. Here is Pt 1

I hope it helps.

Regards Lez.

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, lezz01 said:

There is a how to video on youtube Jonathan. I haven't been able to find anything suitable in this years Hornby mag to help but there are a lot of wiring diagrams on google. Here is Pt 1

I hope it helps.

Regards Lez.

 

Thanks Lez, I did look at that one long winded though it was. All I got from it was to solder the red Power Pack wire to the blue pad on the decoder. No mention of where to solder the others apart from on the back and the camera was miles away to see anything. I eventually worked out where each wire should be soldered as I worked out the ESU diagrams only show part of the decoder. So the red wire goes to the blue pad, the black soldered to the other side of the blue pad and the white soldered next but one to the black. The vendor confirmed I was right. However nothing worked. He suggested only resetting CV113. In the meantime to see whether the capacitor had any charge I used my multi-meter and blew the decoder!! You live and learn. I going to try it with a standard V4 that is about to go for sale.

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  • RMweb Gold

Awaiting replacement power pack and also had email saying the 1P tank is on its way.

 

Early mornings were a busy time at Buxton so here's my version of the 7.52 for Derby and the 8.10 for Manchester Central.

 

1540904952_DSCF7888(2).JPG.45ebcf8d9edcbfc17e323242ef899194.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Very nice Jonathan. Did you build it sprung? If so how did the build go and what did you use for glue?

Regards Lez.

 

Happy Christmas, Lez.

 

There's very little of a build to do. Here's what you get. The floor was glued in with super glue. Even the hook and 3 links are printed but I thought they would gum up when painted. I use blackened metal ones.

 

DSCF7937.JPG

 

It is sprung. Wire is provided which has to be bent L-shaped and a slider fits on to it which holds the bearing.

 

DSCF7946.JPG.51cfb7dd57c2c0bcc67929997e8db869.JPG

 

I put a drop of super glue into the hole where the short leg of the L fits. The only other items needed gluing were the coupling hooks, some lead weight and the buffers. Springs are provided but are too short and on such a light vehicle I doubt would work effectively anyway. The wagon is completely printed and there are no other bits to glue on/put together. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice looking kit Jonathan.

They do some very interesting Midland kits I might indulge myself in a few. I think they are a little pricey but then again they're not that much more than the Slaters kits are now.

I hope you had a nice Christmas mate.

Regards Lez.  

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  • RMweb Gold
13 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Nice looking kit Jonathan.

They do some very interesting Midland kits I might indulge myself in a few. I think they are a little pricey but then again they're not that much more than the Slaters kits are now.

I hope you had a nice Christmas mate.

Regards Lez.  

 

I got the wagons D607 and D204 as Mousa was the only company I could find who make Midland loco coal wagons for my coaling stage area, although the D607 was also used for general coal traffic too.

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  • RMweb Gold

Just before Christmas I ordered a couple of vehicles from Oxford Diecast which arrived today.

A solicitor who lives on the outskirts of Derwent but practises in Manchester has parked his Morris Eight at the station.

 

DSCF7962.JPG.5a1c57db075909114d518bb34803ceb8.JPG

 

And the local doctor who drives an Austin Seven is doing a home visit (remember those?) in Station Road.

 

DSCF7961.JPG.487d4f9f63c388ce57102fcea7300f83.JPG

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Very nice, I have found it difficult to obtain everyday prewar cars in 4mm scale. It's all right if you want to fill the place up with Bentley's, Rolls, Jaguars and Lagondas. 

 

But try finding a Ford Ten, Hillman Minx, Talbot Ten or Vauxhall Fourteen, cars that are much more indicative of a time and place and which were kept going well into the 1960s.

My father ran a 1946  Morris 8 series E like the one you have, right up to 1965 when a collision finished it off.

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  • RMweb Gold

Having got as far as I can with my Midland 4-4-0T build until the weather warms up and I can paint it, I sent away for a Driving Brake End from Wizard (Comet) so I can convert one of my Hornby non-corridors and have a push-pull set for one of my 4-4-0 tanks. The brake end was removed.

DSCF7986.JPG.4fd459bee8ff9c80e740c2c237b273cb.JPG

 

and the duckets

DSCF7988.JPG.5cfb3b30b96ca0d0bed8f88480ee6433.JPG

 

The new end prepared.

DSCF7989.JPG.ced8261b4cb3c278debc617db05daf9d.JPG

 

and attached with super glueDSCF7990.JPG.72d872fa8a5a3fb9b8d19e40fe8ca006.JPG

 

That's stumps for today.

 

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  • RMweb Gold
46 minutes ago, innocentman said:

Hi Jonathan,

 

thought you might find the below useful. It’s from a 1960’s railway modelling magazine (Can’t remember which one). 
 

F50ED839-DE97-4A9A-93EE-540883779B59.jpeg.6676c036503b3416b6f96be27ff20c3d.jpeg

 

Regards

 

Andy

Thanks, Andy. These are very useful and I also have the Jenkins & Essery 3 volume set on LMS Coaching stock. There's only one photo showing a wiper on the central driver's window on No 24404. The other two photos of driving trailers have no wiper, so I wonder how widespread they were fitted?

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Staples generally have a very light rustproof coating similar to bright zinc plating used on bolts and solder doesn't take to it well.

It helps to run a fine file or emery across the area that you intend to solder to create a truly clean surface.

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  • RMweb Gold
8 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Staples generally have a very light rustproof coating similar to bright zinc plating used on bolts and solder doesn't take to it well.

It helps to run a fine file or emery across the area that you intend to solder to create a truly clean surface.

 

It was more holding the coach body with my knees, while holding the lamp iron with tweezers in one hand and soldering with the other and getting everything straight and in more or less the right place!!

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1 hour ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

It was more holding the coach body with my knees, while holding the lamp iron with tweezers in one hand and soldering with the other and getting everything straight and in more or less the right place!!

 

Would it be closing the stable door long after the horse has well and truly b****red off to suggest that you solder the details to the new coach front on the bench and then glue the sub assembly to the coach body?

That is the kind of logical order of assembly that I would have employed, the second time I did it, or perhaps the third.......:jester:

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  • RMweb Gold
1 minute ago, MrWolf said:

That is the kind of logical order of assembly that I would have employed, the second time I did it, or perhaps the third.

Depends on how many push-pull driving coaches one is modifying, as to whether or not that would be effected in practice...

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